1

Topic: SD & E3D

SO, im planning on buying a SD 4, and a E3D HotEnd, and since i dont have the printer right now, do i need to order extra parts to be able to install it? Should a buy a new extruder?
Thanks in advance

2

Re: SD & E3D

You will need the mount for it http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:431363

Also calibrate machine first its been gone over endless times on here and wiki.

"All your base are belong to us." SD4 with a RUMBA, supernight PS, 40mm fan on X motor, lawsey carriages with new better tolerance rods, flanged rear bearings, new NEMA 17 with leadscrew on Z-Axis, and e3d v6 with MK5.


Ward and Jago are my heroes tongue

3

Re: SD & E3D

Fair warning having an SD as first printer you WILL be in for hours of toying and monkeying w...nature of the printer

"All your base are belong to us." SD4 with a RUMBA, supernight PS, 40mm fan on X motor, lawsey carriages with new better tolerance rods, flanged rear bearings, new NEMA 17 with leadscrew on Z-Axis, and e3d v6 with MK5.


Ward and Jago are my heroes tongue

4 (edited by fran.cuesta.marin 2015-03-25 06:30:44)

Re: SD & E3D

OneMoreCast wrote:

Fair warning having an SD as first printer you WILL be in for hours of toying and monkeying w...nature of the printer

I know, but it is also the fun part of it
Thanks for the Help
Edit: I started reading and apparently you need to make some software changes too,could someone give me a hand with that?

5

Re: SD & E3D

bump

6

Re: SD & E3D

The WIKI isn't quite up to speed for the Printerboard.

The firmware you'll need can be downloaded from
https://github.com/ozadr1an/Solidoodle- … in_v1_beta

The rest of these instructions will have some bad links as things are constantly being updated, but it will get you in the neighborhood.

I just updated my solidoodle 3 printers firmware tonight. It has the Printboard Rev E, my operating system is Windows 7 64bit
These instructions I compiled after talking with Adrian, and reading the existing wiki (http://wiki.solidoodle.com/update-firmware)
A: Download the Arduino IDE (www.arduino.cc)
B: Download Teensyduino (http://pjrc.com/teensy/td_download.html)
C: Download the firmware  (https://github.com/ozadr1an/Solidoodle- … in_v1_beta)
D: Download the upload BootloaderHID (http://blog.lincomatic.com/wp-content/u … derHID.zip)
1.    Install Arduiono IDE
2.    By default it installed in C:/program files/Arduino (or program files C:/program files(x86)/Arduino)
3.    Install Teenyduino
4.    It will ask you where the arduino install is, point it to the above folder
5.    Unzip the firmware file to a folder you will remember
6.    Open the Arduino.exe (shortcut put on your desktop after the Arduino IDE installed
7.    Click Tools, Board (might say Board:Arduino Uno) and select the Teensy ++2.0
8.    Click Tools, Serial Port, and change it to the port of your printer
(If you are unsure, and using windows, click the start button, right click computer, click properties, click device manager, and click on ports. Your printer will be the one listed as “USB serial port (Com X) write down whatever the x is, and put it in step 8)
9.    Click File – Open
10.    Browse to the folder you extracted in step 5, select the file (in the marlin folder) named Configureation.H , double click it or select it and click open
11.    You will notice that there are several tabs across the top: Marlin, Configuration.H, ConfigurationStore.cpp etc, select the Configuration.H tab
12.    Scroll down until you see (in black as the grey is comments and effects nothing)
#define SOLIDOODLE_VERSION 2 (line 22 on mine) Change to #define SOLIDOODLE_VERSION 3                 
13.    #define MOTHERBOARD  62 (line #76 on mine…you can tell the line by clicking the code, and looking at the bottom left, a number will be there, this is the line of code)
Change it to read #define MOTHERBOARD 81
14.    find #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1 (line 120 ) and change to #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 6
15.    find #define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 225 (line145)  change to #define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 350
16.    350C is the max the thermister can is good for, the hotend can go higher, but you’ll need a thermocouple instead of the thermister
17.    In the top arduino menu, click Sketch, then Verify/compile
18.    If you installed Teensyduino, it will pop up a window, just close it
19.    If your sketch does not report errors and simply gives you the Binary sketch size and memory use, it is safe to upload. If it reports errors, you have made a syntax error, and should recheck those lines you changed.
20.    Before doing the final compile, click file – save (if you do not, it will not upload the changes)
21.    Hold down SHIFT and click Compile
22.    There has been a .hex file created. Marlin.cpp.hex, in my case (windows 7) it is under C:/users/whateverYourProfileNameIs/AppData/Local/Temp….it will be in the folder
named build-xxxxxxxxx.tmp (the x’s are a string of numbers) created today. You must have view hidden or system files enabled in folder options (control panel. Have view folders by icon instead of category enabled, folder options,view, check Show hidden files and folders)
23.    Unzip the BootloaderHID.Zip (step D) to a folder
24.    Copy the Marlin.cpp.hex file, and past it in the folder above (the bootloaderHID folder
25.    Make sure your computer is connected to the printer via usb cable
26.    Add a jumper to the BOOT pins on the printboard (back of the printer) or bend the 2 pins so they are touching , then press the RESET button
27.    Open a new command window (click the windows start button, and in the search programs field (windows vista or newer) type CMD.
28.    Within the CMD window, navigate to the folder you unzipped the BootleaderHID to in step 23
29.     Type “hid_bootloader_cli -mmcu=at90usb1286 -w -v Marlin.cpp.hex” (no quotations)
30.    It should say something like “read Marlin.cpp.hex xx bytes, xx% usage, found halfkay bootloader, programming…………………..Booting
31.    Remove the jumper, or unbend the boot pins on the printboard (back of the printer)
32.    Press reset
33.    Verify that you have updated them, start up Repetier Host.
34.    Click Connect
35.    Look at the bottom of the screen, you will see a greeting msg when you connect it should now read
02:09:14.238 : echo:Unknown command: ""
02:09:14.405 : FIRMWARE_NAME:Marlin V1; Sprinter/grbl mashup for gen6 FIRMWARE_URL:http://github.com/mlaws/solidoodle2-marlin/ PROTOCOL_VERSION:1.0 MACHINE_TYPE:Solidoodle EXTRUDER_COUNT:1
02:09:14.405 : echo:Active Extruder: 0
If you see the address changed to github.com instead of solidoodle, you know you're golden

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

7

Re: SD & E3D

wardjr wrote:

The WIKI isn't quite up to speed for the Printerboard.

The firmware you'll need can be downloaded from
https://github.com/ozadr1an/Solidoodle- … in_v1_beta

The rest of these instructions will have some bad links as things are constantly being updated, but it will get you in the neighborhood.

I just updated my solidoodle 3 printers firmware tonight. It has the Printboard Rev E, my operating system is Windows 7 64bit
These instructions I compiled after talking with Adrian, and reading the existing wiki (http://wiki.solidoodle.com/update-firmware)
A: Download the Arduino IDE (www.arduino.cc)
B: Download Teensyduino (http://pjrc.com/teensy/td_download.html)
C: Download the firmware  (https://github.com/ozadr1an/Solidoodle- … in_v1_beta)
D: Download the upload BootloaderHID (http://blog.lincomatic.com/wp-content/u … derHID.zip)
1.    Install Arduiono IDE
2.    By default it installed in C:/program files/Arduino (or program files C:/program files(x86)/Arduino)
3.    Install Teenyduino
4.    It will ask you where the arduino install is, point it to the above folder
5.    Unzip the firmware file to a folder you will remember
6.    Open the Arduino.exe (shortcut put on your desktop after the Arduino IDE installed
7.    Click Tools, Board (might say Board:Arduino Uno) and select the Teensy ++2.0
8.    Click Tools, Serial Port, and change it to the port of your printer
(If you are unsure, and using windows, click the start button, right click computer, click properties, click device manager, and click on ports. Your printer will be the one listed as “USB serial port (Com X) write down whatever the x is, and put it in step 8)
9.    Click File – Open
10.    Browse to the folder you extracted in step 5, select the file (in the marlin folder) named Configureation.H , double click it or select it and click open
11.    You will notice that there are several tabs across the top: Marlin, Configuration.H, ConfigurationStore.cpp etc, select the Configuration.H tab
12.    Scroll down until you see (in black as the grey is comments and effects nothing)
#define SOLIDOODLE_VERSION 2 (line 22 on mine) Change to #define SOLIDOODLE_VERSION 3                 
13.    #define MOTHERBOARD  62 (line #76 on mine…you can tell the line by clicking the code, and looking at the bottom left, a number will be there, this is the line of code)
Change it to read #define MOTHERBOARD 81
14.    find #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1 (line 120 ) and change to #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 6
15.    find #define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 225 (line145)  change to #define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 350
16.    350C is the max the thermister can is good for, the hotend can go higher, but you’ll need a thermocouple instead of the thermister
17.    In the top arduino menu, click Sketch, then Verify/compile
18.    If you installed Teensyduino, it will pop up a window, just close it
19.    If your sketch does not report errors and simply gives you the Binary sketch size and memory use, it is safe to upload. If it reports errors, you have made a syntax error, and should recheck those lines you changed.
20.    Before doing the final compile, click file – save (if you do not, it will not upload the changes)
21.    Hold down SHIFT and click Compile
22.    There has been a .hex file created. Marlin.cpp.hex, in my case (windows 7) it is under C:/users/whateverYourProfileNameIs/AppData/Local/Temp….it will be in the folder
named build-xxxxxxxxx.tmp (the x’s are a string of numbers) created today. You must have view hidden or system files enabled in folder options (control panel. Have view folders by icon instead of category enabled, folder options,view, check Show hidden files and folders)
23.    Unzip the BootloaderHID.Zip (step D) to a folder
24.    Copy the Marlin.cpp.hex file, and past it in the folder above (the bootloaderHID folder
25.    Make sure your computer is connected to the printer via usb cable
26.    Add a jumper to the BOOT pins on the printboard (back of the printer) or bend the 2 pins so they are touching , then press the RESET button
27.    Open a new command window (click the windows start button, and in the search programs field (windows vista or newer) type CMD.
28.    Within the CMD window, navigate to the folder you unzipped the BootleaderHID to in step 23
29.     Type “hid_bootloader_cli -mmcu=at90usb1286 -w -v Marlin.cpp.hex” (no quotations)
30.    It should say something like “read Marlin.cpp.hex xx bytes, xx% usage, found halfkay bootloader, programming…………………..Booting
31.    Remove the jumper, or unbend the boot pins on the printboard (back of the printer)
32.    Press reset
33.    Verify that you have updated them, start up Repetier Host.
34.    Click Connect
35.    Look at the bottom of the screen, you will see a greeting msg when you connect it should now read
02:09:14.238 : echo:Unknown command: ""
02:09:14.405 : FIRMWARE_NAME:Marlin V1; Sprinter/grbl mashup for gen6 FIRMWARE_URL:http://github.com/mlaws/solidoodle2-marlin/ PROTOCOL_VERSION:1.0 MACHINE_TYPE:Solidoodle EXTRUDER_COUNT:1
02:09:14.405 : echo:Active Extruder: 0
If you see the address changed to github.com instead of solidoodle, you know you're golden


Let the monkeying begin big_smile

"All your base are belong to us." SD4 with a RUMBA, supernight PS, 40mm fan on X motor, lawsey carriages with new better tolerance rods, flanged rear bearings, new NEMA 17 with leadscrew on Z-Axis, and e3d v6 with MK5.


Ward and Jago are my heroes tongue

8

Re: SD & E3D

But seriously, as usual...Ward has provided stellar info and a perfect guide for ya

"All your base are belong to us." SD4 with a RUMBA, supernight PS, 40mm fan on X motor, lawsey carriages with new better tolerance rods, flanged rear bearings, new NEMA 17 with leadscrew on Z-Axis, and e3d v6 with MK5.


Ward and Jago are my heroes tongue

9

Re: SD & E3D

OneMoreCast wrote:

But seriously, as usual...Ward has provided stellar info and a perfect guide for ya

Thank Cast and Ward for your help! I really appreciate it!

10

Re: SD & E3D

Thanks for the help wardjr! I just upgraded to the E3D v6 and needed help with the firmware. One problem I now have though still is the controllable fan used for PLA won't turn on. Do you have to enable something in the firmware to get this fan to work again?

11

Re: SD & E3D

Could you give me more details about when you say? "to get this fan to work again"
What fan and what did you change that it no longer works?

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

12 (edited by metaldrgn 2015-03-30 01:45:38)

Re: SD & E3D

I reloaded the firmware with the directions from this site. On repetier host, there's a button to turn the fan on/off and set the %. This is for the extra fan you can wire in to use to cool the PLA as it's extruded. The button no longer turns it on and printing doesn't turn it on either so I figure there a setting for it. Is it called the PWM fan?

13

Re: SD & E3D

So you had a G-code fan working previously but after the firmware update it doesn't function?  There is nothing in the firmware update I posted that would change that.  Is it possible you have a bad connection or reversed the polarity of the fan during your E3d installation?

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

14 (edited by metaldrgn 2015-04-05 17:00:04)

Re: SD & E3D

Yes. I doubt it's a bad connection and it isn't reversed polarity because it was never disconnected. It's soldered straight into the board.

I was able to find some similar issues and looking at pins.h I found this:

#if MOTHERBOARD == 8 || MOTHERBOARD == 81
#define KNOWN_BOARD 1
#define AT90USB 1286  // Disable MarlinSerial etc.

#ifndef __AVR_AT90USB1286__
#error Oops!  Make sure you have 'Teensy++ 2.0' selected from the 'Tools -> Boards' menu.
#endif

#define LARGE_FLASH        true

#define X_STEP_PIN          0
#define X_DIR_PIN           1
#define X_ENABLE_PIN       39

#define Y_STEP_PIN          2
#define Y_DIR_PIN           3
#define Y_ENABLE_PIN       38

#define Z_STEP_PIN          4
#define Z_DIR_PIN           5
#define Z_ENABLE_PIN       23

#define E0_STEP_PIN         6
#define E0_DIR_PIN          7
#define E0_ENABLE_PIN      19

#define HEATER_0_PIN       21  // Extruder
#define HEATER_1_PIN       -1
#define HEATER_2_PIN       -1
#define HEATER_BED_PIN     20  // Bed
#define FAN_PIN            22  // Fan
// You may need to change FAN_PIN to 16 because Marlin isn't using fastio.h
// for the fan and Teensyduino uses a different pin mapping.

Is that what enables the fan and should it be 16? I haven't had a chance to try it yet.

15

Re: SD & E3D

Hmmm, that seems most probable.  You will just have to try it and see.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

16 (edited by metaldrgn 2015-03-30 03:20:46)

Re: SD & E3D

Ok, that worked big_smile so just to note for anyone else stumbling onto this thread it has to be pin 16 for the fan that you use to cool the extruded filament. This is for the printrboard version (motherboard 81) of the Solidoodle 3.

17 (edited by metaldrgn 2015-03-30 03:50:36)

Re: SD & E3D

Also you can reuse the stock housing for the extruder. I just need to figure out a way to attach the fan and duct it. The version I got from thingiverse I think was for the v5 and mine didn't fit. This works for now, but having the fan adds better results for PLA and maybe others. Be careful when you are taking the clear pieces apart! There are more than you may think and they can be difficult to figure out how they go back.

Yes my temp sensor wire leads are just plugged into the connector for now, lol. The site that links what connectors to buy lists only the female so I have to reorder more...

The heating element I wired all the way back to the board and put one of the connectors I bought on it and plugged it in. I don't like adding more connections/splices than I need to.

I soldered the hot end fan (small one) wires into the splices that were used for the extruder motor fan. I plan to resplice it later.

The plastic tubing I cut straight off at both edge with a razor blade (seems to work best) and made it so it's flush with the top of the opening. I wanted to chamfer the edge, but seemed to not have any problems so I left it and haven't had any issues (changed the filament 4 or more times after finally assembly). Make sure it works for you before you assemble everything.

I found out the hard way that that wood piece on the extruder is used as an endstop. I had to use hotglue to make it work till I could print something out and I will put it on thingiverse later.

http://soliforum.com/i/?EEHaNmy.jpg
http://soliforum.com/i/?oo1wgYv.jpg
http://soliforum.com/i/?38Vs7oo.jpg

18

Re: SD & E3D

Hello , at step 31 after i unbend the boot pins  and push reset my usb won t see the printer anymore . if i make contact between the reboot pins and push reset it gets recognised again and i have to reinstall the driver like on a new printer .

wardjr wrote:

The WIKI isn't quite up to speed for the Printerboard.

The firmware you'll need can be downloaded from
https://github.com/ozadr1an/Solidoodle- … in_v1_beta

The rest of these instructions will have some bad links as things are constantly being updated, but it will get you in the neighborhood.

I just updated my solidoodle 3 printers firmware tonight. It has the Printboard Rev E, my operating system is Windows 7 64bit
These instructions I compiled after talking with Adrian, and reading the existing wiki (http://wiki.solidoodle.com/update-firmware)
A: Download the Arduino IDE (www.arduino.cc)
B: Download Teensyduino (http://pjrc.com/teensy/td_download.html)
C: Download the firmware  (https://github.com/ozadr1an/Solidoodle- … in_v1_beta)
D: Download the upload BootloaderHID (http://blog.lincomatic.com/wp-content/u … derHID.zip)
1.    Install Arduiono IDE
2.    By default it installed in C:/program files/Arduino (or program files C:/program files(x86)/Arduino)
3.    Install Teenyduino
4.    It will ask you where the arduino install is, point it to the above folder
5.    Unzip the firmware file to a folder you will remember
6.    Open the Arduino.exe (shortcut put on your desktop after the Arduino IDE installed
7.    Click Tools, Board (might say Board:Arduino Uno) and select the Teensy ++2.0
8.    Click Tools, Serial Port, and change it to the port of your printer
(If you are unsure, and using windows, click the start button, right click computer, click properties, click device manager, and click on ports. Your printer will be the one listed as “USB serial port (Com X) write down whatever the x is, and put it in step 8)
9.    Click File – Open
10.    Browse to the folder you extracted in step 5, select the file (in the marlin folder) named Configureation.H , double click it or select it and click open
11.    You will notice that there are several tabs across the top: Marlin, Configuration.H, ConfigurationStore.cpp etc, select the Configuration.H tab
12.    Scroll down until you see (in black as the grey is comments and effects nothing)
#define SOLIDOODLE_VERSION 2 (line 22 on mine) Change to #define SOLIDOODLE_VERSION 3                 
13.    #define MOTHERBOARD  62 (line #76 on mine…you can tell the line by clicking the code, and looking at the bottom left, a number will be there, this is the line of code)
Change it to read #define MOTHERBOARD 81
14.    find #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1 (line 120 ) and change to #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 6
15.    find #define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 225 (line145)  change to #define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 350
16.    350C is the max the thermister can is good for, the hotend can go higher, but you’ll need a thermocouple instead of the thermister
17.    In the top arduino menu, click Sketch, then Verify/compile
18.    If you installed Teensyduino, it will pop up a window, just close it
19.    If your sketch does not report errors and simply gives you the Binary sketch size and memory use, it is safe to upload. If it reports errors, you have made a syntax error, and should recheck those lines you changed.
20.    Before doing the final compile, click file – save (if you do not, it will not upload the changes)
21.    Hold down SHIFT and click Compile
22.    There has been a .hex file created. Marlin.cpp.hex, in my case (windows 7) it is under C:/users/whateverYourProfileNameIs/AppData/Local/Temp….it will be in the folder
named build-xxxxxxxxx.tmp (the x’s are a string of numbers) created today. You must have view hidden or system files enabled in folder options (control panel. Have view folders by icon instead of category enabled, folder options,view, check Show hidden files and folders)
23.    Unzip the BootloaderHID.Zip (step D) to a folder
24.    Copy the Marlin.cpp.hex file, and past it in the folder above (the bootloaderHID folder
25.    Make sure your computer is connected to the printer via usb cable
26.    Add a jumper to the BOOT pins on the printboard (back of the printer) or bend the 2 pins so they are touching , then press the RESET button
27.    Open a new command window (click the windows start button, and in the search programs field (windows vista or newer) type CMD.
28.    Within the CMD window, navigate to the folder you unzipped the BootleaderHID to in step 23
29.     Type “hid_bootloader_cli -mmcu=at90usb1286 -w -v Marlin.cpp.hex” (no quotations)
30.    It should say something like “read Marlin.cpp.hex xx bytes, xx% usage, found halfkay bootloader, programming…………………..Booting
31.    Remove the jumper, or unbend the boot pins on the printboard (back of the printer)
32.    Press reset
33.    Verify that you have updated them, start up Repetier Host.
34.    Click Connect
35.    Look at the bottom of the screen, you will see a greeting msg when you connect it should now read
02:09:14.238 : echo:Unknown command: ""
02:09:14.405 : FIRMWARE_NAME:Marlin V1; Sprinter/grbl mashup for gen6 FIRMWARE_URL:http://github.com/mlaws/solidoodle2-marlin/ PROTOCOL_VERSION:1.0 MACHINE_TYPE:Solidoodle EXTRUDER_COUNT:1
02:09:14.405 : echo:Active Extruder: 0
If you see the address changed to github.com instead of solidoodle, you know you're golden

19

Re: SD & E3D

Give us more information....
What version of windows?
What printer and when did you buy it?

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

20

Re: SD & E3D

metaldrgn wrote:

Ok, that worked big_smile so just to note for anyone else stumbling onto this thread it has to be pin 16 for the fan that you use to cool the extruded filament. This is for the printrboard version (motherboard 81) of the Solidoodle 3.

I was having the same problem, when I found this thread.  It got my fan working too! (although I had to flash the board twice, because I forgot to save pins.h the first time)

My SD4 came from Solidoodle with gcode fan enabled; I just had to add the header pins to the printrboard.  After upgrading to an E3Dv6 and flashing the firmware, the gcode fan quit.  I thought I had damaged the motherboard or something!

Thanks guys!