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Topic: sticking prints and other beginner questions

I love my new AIO xyz printer, but I can't get small objects off the print bed after I print them.  I've been leaving off the glue stick and everything prior to printing.  I'm afraid to whack it too hard with the putty knife contraption for fear of wrecking the calibration. Any suggestions? Is there a downside to bypassing the cool down period? Or should I let it cool down by itself?

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Re: sticking prints and other beginner questions

If you let the parts cool to room temp they should lift off the.bed with minimal effort. Do not pass the cool down and in fact allow longer. I always allow an hour minimum after printing stops. These are not production machines nor are they for the impatient.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

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Re: sticking prints and other beginner questions

Thanks. Any problem with leaving off the glue stick on parts that have a proportionally large flat bottom surface? They sure don't seem to dislodge during printing if I don't use glue.

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Re: sticking prints and other beginner questions

dstreb wrote:

Thanks. Any problem with leaving off the glue stick on parts that have a proportionally large flat bottom surface? They sure don't seem to dislodge during printing if I don't use glue.

If it works without glue that is fine. It only serves to aid adhesion.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

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Re: sticking prints and other beginner questions

dstreb wrote:

I love my new AIO xyz printer, but I can't get small objects off the print bed after I print them.  I've been leaving off the glue stick and everything prior to printing.  I'm afraid to whack it too hard with the putty knife contraption for fear of wrecking the calibration. Any suggestions? Is there a downside to bypassing the cool down period? Or should I let it cool down by itself?


I went through the same learning curve as to what works best on the bed.

Different brands of filament also act differently as to how well they adhere to the glass.

After allowing my print job to cool and finding part of the glass
attached to the model once with glue and once with nothing, that was getting to
expensive to replace.

I started using blue painters tape on the bed and never looked back.

Most of the time the models come off right after printing and at worse
pull some tape off.

At least I feel safe that the glass will not chip or crack.

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Re: sticking prints and other beginner questions

I print PLA on a chap glass plate treated with hair spray.
As Carl said let it coll and it should pop off.
That said I also commonly use a razer scraper to wedge prints off. And at one seminar I attended I saw peeople use a 4" putty knife and 3d printed hammer to remove prints from Ultimakers.  IMHO the key to a putty knife is a good wedge on the edge. and a smooth edge . If you are pacing the edge against air  inbetweeen the glass and the plastic little force is needed. the moment the edge is hitting the part then the force is sideways instead of upward.
Tin

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

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Re: sticking prints and other beginner questions

Tin Falcon wrote:

I print PLA on a chap glass plate treated with hair spray.
As Carl said let it coll and it should pop off.
That said I also commonly use a razer scraper to wedge prints off. And at one seminar I attended I saw peeople use a 4" putty knife and 3d printed hammer to remove prints from Ultimakers.  IMHO the key to a putty knife is a good wedge on the edge. and a smooth edge . If you are pacing the edge against air  inbetweeen the glass and the plastic little force is needed. the moment the edge is hitting the part then the force is sideways instead of upward.
Tin

I actually use a razor blade scraper to get under the edge to break the seal if I am in a hurry and can't wait a full hour for it to cool.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

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Re: sticking prints and other beginner questions

I have never used the glue stick.  I put on Kapton tape from day one and had great luck.  The most stuck part so far I had to wait two hours and support the bed while i pulled the print off and that was a cylinder shaped print. 

Usually I can pop the parts off at 70 degrees with abs.

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Re: sticking prints and other beginner questions

My glass has a dip in the middle,, so I let the glue build up after each print and then wet a paper towel and smooth it down..  Sometimes I don't even need to re apply any glue, but if you let it cool down it will almost always pop off easily..  I find elmers purple glue sticks to be better than uhu..