1 Topic by w_smith

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Topic: What's wrong with this picture (model)?

So I redesigned the Y axis belt tensioners in Sketchup, and created:

http://geekho.com/wpns/Y_Belt_Tensioner.skp
which exports to
http://geekho.com/wpns/Y_Belt_Tensioner.stl
which Slic3rs to
http://geekho.com/wpns/1xWPNS_YaxisTensioners_ABS.gco

Which looks fine in Sketchup, but has a couple of issues when printed:

1) There's a line across one of the holes in the top, that's obviously an artifact of a diagonal line I drew to find the center of the face.  This isn't visible in the SKP or STL files, but shows up in the .GCO file when viewed in RH.

2) The top of the faces isn't filled in well, but that's visible in the .GCO file as well, so is this something wrong with Slic3r?

(Mac) Sketchup 15.2.686
Solid Inspector2 (no problems found)
Cleanup3 11 errors, reported to author

(PC) RH-SD 0.85b
Slic3r 1.2.6

Any idea what I'm doing wrong?

Thanks!

2 Reply by IronMan (edited by IronMan 2015-03-03 15:19:51)

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Re: What's wrong with this picture (model)?

The object (stl) is not manifold...but it seems to slice just fine.

Your stray printed plastic across the top could just be unintentional bridging and it did not show up when I sliced it.  What are your retraction settings?

EDIT:  Never mind...I just ran your gcode file through RH and I see it now...goes all the way down one hole...I did not get that when I sliced.  Here's mine:

http://i.imgur.com/6UqHRSZ.jpg

Are you slicing directly with Slic3r into RH?

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Ord Bot Hadron - RAMPS 1.4 - Bulldog XL - E3D v6 - 10" x 10" PCB Heated Build w/SSR - Glass Plate
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3 Reply by w_smith

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Re: What's wrong with this picture (model)?

IronMan wrote:

The object (stl) is not manifold...but it seems to slice just fine.

Your stray printed plastic across the top could just be unintentional bridging and it did not show up when I sliced it.  What are your retraction settings?

EDIT:  Never mind...I just ran your gcode file through RH and I see it now...goes all the way down one hole...I did not get that when I sliced.  Here's mine:

Are you slicing directly with Slic3r into RH?

Yes, calling Slic3r from RH. Looks like the two problems are separate:

1) The line goes away when I turn off "Detect bridging perimeters" in Print Settings/Layers and Perimeters.  Probably something interacting between the model and Slic3r.  Not a big panic, as I'll end up cleaning out the holes to 4mm for the inserts anyway.

2) The sparse fill on the top seems to be related to how much filament I'm extruding.  I tried measuring (1.64-1.74mm), averaging(1.68mm), and setting up a new filament description for the filament I'm using, but that was _WAY_ too much, the hot-end was digging a trench in the previous layers.

Which leads to a couple of more questions:

A) What's the correct way to calibrate my extruder, filament, and hot-end for the right amount of fill?  Should I start with https://solidoodletips.wordpress.com/20 … libration/ and work my way along or is there a better way?

B) Is this filament (7% variation in thickness) usable?  I've got some Octave filament on order, but I've got the better part of 12KG of various other filaments (yes, in a box with desiccant) kicking around, and I'd like to use it if I can...  Maybe use the Octave filament for the printer parts and the random junk filament for other stuff?

Here's what the top of my last printout looks like:

http://geekho.com/wpns/YaxisTensionerTop.jpg

Thanks!

4 Reply by IronMan

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Re: What's wrong with this picture (model)?

Agreed on all points!  7% variation is not that great, but dialing in your extruder and then settling on the proper extrusion multiplier should get you close to where you need to be...

SD2 - Stock - Enclosure - Heated Bed - Glass Plate - Auto Fire Extinguisher
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5 Reply by IronMan

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Re: What's wrong with this picture (model)?

And don't forget this step after the extruder calibrate...

https://solidoodletips.wordpress.com/20 … flow-rate/

Good Luck!

SD2 - Stock - Enclosure - Heated Bed - Glass Plate - Auto Fire Extinguisher
Ord Bot Hadron - RAMPS 1.4 - Bulldog XL - E3D v6 - 10" x 10" PCB Heated Build w/SSR - Glass Plate
Thanks for All of Your Help!

6 Reply by w_smith

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Re: What's wrong with this picture (model)?

IronMan wrote:

And don't forget this step after the extruder calibrate...

https://solidoodletips.wordpress.com/20 … flow-rate/

Good Luck!

Is there a standard calibration cube that people like to print, or should I just make one up?

Thanks!

7 Reply by jagowilson (edited by jagowilson 2015-03-03 22:53:36)

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Re: What's wrong with this picture (model)?

w_smith wrote:
IronMan wrote:

And don't forget this step after the extruder calibrate...

https://solidoodletips.wordpress.com/20 … flow-rate/

Good Luck!

Is there a standard calibration cube that people like to print, or should I just make one up?

Thanks!

I use a 20x20x20mm solid cube. Make sure it is a solid cube in the model and verify with the g code preview that it is in fact only printing one perimeter. Use 0 fill, 2-3 bottom solid layers and 0 top solid layers.

I like to print a 10x10x10 mm solid cube at 100% infill with 2 perimeters after the extrusion multiplier calibration for a new roll of filament. Visual inspection can tell you a lot about your extrusion calibration, especially if you print solid. If the surface is rough, you are over extruding. If you see gaps between the fill lines, you are under extruding.

A 7% variation in diameter means you will never get your extrusion dialed in perfectly. Extrusion calibration has a significant impact on fitment of parts and strength, also, so it's worth doing the best you can.