1 Topic by w_smith

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Topic: Slic3r settings for 100% Infill?

While I was installing the bed stabilizer, I slipped and hit the left-hand Y-axis belt holder/tensioner, so it broke, and now I'm hoping to be able to print http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:438945 before it completely fails.

I know I should set Slic3r for 100% infill, but I seem to have two options:

1) 100% infill and then pick one of eight Fill Patterns

2) Solid Infill every with a fill angle of some number of degrees (default 45).

Which is better, and which options should I use?

Also, it strikes me that the tension on these parts is in the direction that's printed on the Z axis, which axis are prints strongest, and should I print them in some other orientation for maximum reliability?

And is a quick dip in acetone and 24 hours to dry (on a heated bed?) a good way of strengthening them, kinda like PVC cement welding?

Thanks!

2 Reply by OneMoreCast (edited by OneMoreCast 2015-03-01 16:58:08)

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Re: Slic3r settings for 100% Infill?

I personally use 100% rectilinear. If you want to you can make an ABS slurry (assuming you printed part in ABS) and "paint" finished product...I do that to fill gaps occasionally and it deff helps and adds a bit of strength. 100% rectilinear will be good though

"All your base are belong to us." SD4 with a RUMBA, supernight PS, 40mm fan on X motor, lawsey carriages with new better tolerance rods, flanged rear bearings, new NEMA 17 with leadscrew on Z-Axis, and e3d v6 with MK5.


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3 Reply by AZERATE

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Re: Slic3r settings for 100% Infill?

You don't always want to use acetone...especially on printed-to-fit parts. Acetone smoothing can and will effect the dimensions of the part, making it difficult or impossible for the intended use.
If for a carriage part, you do not want to use acetone on the bearing receivers or the bearings will not sit right...the acetone slurry/residue would start to pool on the bottom resulting in a clunky fit.

If you want to smooth/strengthen carriages, use a paper towel or brush and use it only on external walls or parts you can drill back out to fit easily.
I used to do this for cosmetic reasons, and there is a reason why I stopped smile

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4 Reply by jagowilson

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Re: Slic3r settings for 100% Infill?

At 100% infill you'll find they don't need strengthening if your extrusion is well calibrated. When I print 100% infill I use 2 perimeters, rectilinear fill at 45 degrees.

5 Reply by w_smith

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Re: Slic3r settings for 100% Infill?

Turns out my belt slips, so I've got to build some new tensioners by hand from a block of plastic, or stop by my local machine shop again and have another laugh about putting him out of business.

Sigh.

6 Reply by jagowilson (edited by jagowilson 2015-03-02 00:09:07)

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Re: Slic3r settings for 100% Infill?

If you want me to print you some and you're in the states shoot me a PM.

7 Reply by w_smith

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Re: Slic3r settings for 100% Infill?

jagowilson wrote:

If you want me to print you some and you're in the states shoot me a PM.

Thanks, but I stopped by my basement woodworking shop 8*) and hacked something out of a chunk of HDPE(?) I had lying around.  It's crude, but it works!

That got me far enough to be able to print some parts I found on Thingiverse, though only one of them finished.

So I fired up Sketchup and built my own model, which is easier to print and much more substantial than the stock one or the other Thingiverse one.  Plus it uses the brass inserts like the factory ones, so it ought to be a bit stronger.

And I'm printing a set of four of them now, I hope.  8*)

Unfortunately, the _other_ tensioner broke while I was setting up for this build, but it doesn't _seem_ to be fatal, hopefully I'll get through this job and I can replace them both.