26 Reply by wardjr

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Re: SD4: Right side of Print Carriage wobbles, not stable, can't calibrate

redbarret wrote:

Fine.

Doesn't OP also need to replace the 2 side rods now because the stock are low tolerance not suited for linear bearings?
There's more than one reason I have for not ditching the stock carriage.

I can think of a few users that have managed to work with the stock rods.  Most choose to switch to higher quality rods while they are there.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

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27 Reply by redbarret (edited by redbarret 2015-02-09 16:21:36)

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Re: SD4: Right side of Print Carriage wobbles, not stable, can't calibrate

If stock rods will work, then fine.
Otherwise I think we should let users know about this when suggesting an upgrade.
Bad rods can damage the bearings. Plus with 8 LM8UUs, 2 quality 8mm shafts, and high infill printed parts the cost adds up.

I'm definitely giving the impression that I don't like linear bearing carriages. But I assure you that's not the case. I have my LM8UUs delivered and the only reason I haven't upgraded is my printer heater has problems and I can't print the parts yet.

I'm just trying to look at this objectively: cost might be an issue for people who bought a cheap Solidoodle instead of an Ultimaker. They should know the pros and cons and whether the problems they are experiencing is even related to the brass and teflon carriage or not and whether it's worth it for them personally to make a new carriage. In this case I personally think the issue was badly glued carriage (poor assembly), not the carriage design and infill density.

Solidoodle 4

28 Reply by w_smith

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Re: SD4: Right side of Print Carriage wobbles, not stable, can't calibrate

OK, so I bought some cheap LM8UU bearings from Amazon, and they feel horrible on my stock shafts (each one feels different, but none of them slide like they should).  The stock bearings from the center carriage feel better, but not great on the stock shafts.

So I ordered eight of the http://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/result/?Keyword=LMU8 bearings and four of the McMaster-Carr http://www.mcmaster.com/#6112k45/=vuu0b4 shafts

And the E3D HotEnd http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Full-Kit/v … -Universal arrived today.

And I've got a bunch of M3 bolts, nuts, washers, tools on order from McMaster-Carr.

And I've got the Lawsy's carriages coming RSN

So what else am I missing, or what other pieces or tools am I going to need to get my SD4 up and running again?

Thanks!

29 Reply by wardjr

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Re: SD4: Right side of Print Carriage wobbles, not stable, can't calibrate

Sounds like you have a solid plan to get more out of your printer smile

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

wardjr's Website

30 Reply by OneMoreCast

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Re: SD4: Right side of Print Carriage wobbles, not stable, can't calibrate

w_smith wrote:

OK, so I bought some cheap LM8UU bearings from Amazon, and they feel horrible on my stock shafts (each one feels different, but none of them slide like they should).  The stock bearings from the center carriage feel better, but not great on the stock shafts.

So I ordered eight of the http://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/result/?Keyword=LMU8 bearings and four of the McMaster-Carr http://www.mcmaster.com/#6112k45/=vuu0b4 shafts

And the E3D HotEnd http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Full-Kit/v … -Universal arrived today.

And I've got a bunch of M3 bolts, nuts, washers, tools on order from McMaster-Carr.

And I've got the Lawsy's carriages coming RSN

So what else am I missing, or what other pieces or tools am I going to need to get my SD4 up and running again?

Thanks!


If you want I was actually going to piece together some upgrade kits. I have supernight power supply, gt2 20 tooth pulleys and belt to replace all, new higher tolerance 6mm and 8mm rod and 5/16 wellnuts, and flanged bearings for rear. If interested let me know.

"All your base are belong to us." SD4 with a RUMBA, supernight PS, 40mm fan on X motor, lawsey carriages with new better tolerance rods, flanged rear bearings, new NEMA 17 with leadscrew on Z-Axis, and e3d v6 with MK5.


Ward and Jago are my heroes tongue

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31 Reply by w_smith

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Re: SD4: Right side of Print Carriage wobbles, not stable, can't calibrate

Oh, I know what I meant to ask:

Do I need cooling fans for either the X or Y axis steppers or the part under construction?  I've seen various upgrades for this kind of thing, but wonder how necessary they are...

Thanks!

32 Reply by wardjr

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Re: SD4: Right side of Print Carriage wobbles, not stable, can't calibrate

The x motor is the one you have to worry about.  I use a heat sink on mine others like a fan on it.  Both will work fine.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

wardjr's Website

33 Reply by OneMoreCast

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Re: SD4: Right side of Print Carriage wobbles, not stable, can't calibrate

Put one on the x motor...thing gets hot. Has drastically dropped the temp. www.thingiverse.com/thing:38399

"All your base are belong to us." SD4 with a RUMBA, supernight PS, 40mm fan on X motor, lawsey carriages with new better tolerance rods, flanged rear bearings, new NEMA 17 with leadscrew on Z-Axis, and e3d v6 with MK5.


Ward and Jago are my heroes tongue

OneMoreCast's Website

34 Reply by w_smith

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Re: SD4: Right side of Print Carriage wobbles, not stable, can't calibrate

Thanks all for your help (especially jagowilson and AZERATE), got it all working again (knock on wood).

I used new rods for the Y (back and forth) axis, but didn't want to bother cutting the rods down for the X (left to right) axis, but with new bearings it seems to work pretty well.

Now that I'm printing again, I can print more upgrades for my printer.  8*)

Need to stop by a machine shop and get an adapter made for the E3D Hot End, so I can use both of my 'legacy' hot ends and my new E3D one without changing out carriages.

Or design a hybrid carriage system that'll combine the best features of both.  Sure would have been nice to use the original end less belts and clamps on the Lawsy carriages instead of cutting, drilling(*), and screwing (with?) the Lawsy attachment system.

(*) I found that a high-speed drill used very lightly will cut through the belt and leave a usable hole without resorting to clamping or burning.

Anyway, thanks again for all the help and advice!

35 Reply by jagowilson (edited by jagowilson 2015-02-22 22:03:52)

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Re: SD4: Right side of Print Carriage wobbles, not stable, can't calibrate

Just curious but why do you have interest in using the stock hotend? I never want to go back tongue

If you haven't installed your e3d yet, I recommend just throwing it on, you'll quickly see the need for nothing else!

Glad you are running again. Just got my machine back up after.. 2-3 weeks of downtime (it helps not to break things)

36 Reply by AZERATE

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Re: SD4: Right side of Print Carriage wobbles, not stable, can't calibrate

jagowilson wrote:

Just curious but why do you have interest in using the stock hotend? I never want to go back tongue

If you haven't installed your e3d yet, I recommend just throwing it on, you'll quickly see the need for nothing else!

+1

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

37 Reply by w_smith

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Re: SD4: Right side of Print Carriage wobbles, not stable, can't calibrate

Well, a couple of reasons for wanting to use the stock hot-end as well as the E3D one:

- I have two stock hot-ends, one mangled/rebuilt one for PLA and one new unused one for ABS (well, as soon as the proper connectors arrive, don't get me started), plus a spare PEEK adapter, so I've got a bit of cash invested in the stock parts.

- They are pretty easy to swap out on the SD4, one screw, two connectors (well, see above), and then I can get back to printing while I disassemble, burn out, clean out, rebuild, and set up the other hot-end.

- Since I'm still using the stock center carriage, it's looking easier to have an adapter made for the E3D than to convert everything over to Only-E3D and toss my stock hot-ends in the junk box.

Nurg!  After saying everything was working, halfway through a print of the Escher Lizard  from
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:39247 something went "grind" and shifted about 8 mm on the Y axis.  I _think_ the filament was binding up, so I've fiddled with my spool holder and am trying again.

Why does the PLA extruder temperature jump from 180 to 215 after the first 5 minutes?  Is that related?

38 Reply by jagowilson (edited by jagowilson 2015-02-22 23:42:58)

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Re: SD4: Right side of Print Carriage wobbles, not stable, can't calibrate

You can mount the e3d on the stock SD4 carriage no problem. Here's a picture from my machine a while back. The STL is here http://www.soliforum.com/post/57481/#p57481

Just remove the bottom aluminum And put the white printed part in its place. It takes just a few seconds.

Edit: although I don't have the side fan on I can assure it will still fit if you leave it.

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39 Reply by AZERATE

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Re: SD4: Right side of Print Carriage wobbles, not stable, can't calibrate

w_smith wrote:

Why does the PLA extruder temperature jump from 180 to 215 after the first 5 minutes?  Is that related?

In the RH window, click on Printer Settings in the top right corner. The extruder temp setting may not reflect the temp settings you have in Slic3r. If that looks good, go into Slic3r under Filament Settings and check your extruder temp there. It will say "First Layer" and Other Layers". Make sure these are the same.

Remember that PLA requires a fan.

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

40 Reply by w_smith (edited by w_smith 2015-02-23 16:32:18)

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Re: SD4: Right side of Print Carriage wobbles, not stable, can't calibrate

AZERATE wrote:
w_smith wrote:

Why does the PLA extruder temperature jump from 180 to 215 after the first 5 minutes?  Is that related?

In the RH window, click on Printer Settings in the top right corner. The extruder temp setting may not reflect the temp settings you have in Slic3r. If that looks good, go into Slic3r under Filament Settings and check your extruder temp there. It will say "First Layer" and Other Layers". Make sure these are the same.

Remember that PLA requires a fan.

Doh!  I was using the gcode from the slicer when it was set for ABS.  I guess I'm surprised it worked at all (PLA at 215 with no active cooling?) but now I just have to reslice everything for PLA...

Or edit the gcode file to change the temperature.  Much easier, unless you try to use the Repetier Host software, which _has_ an edit function, but no search.  8*|  FWIW, change M104 Sxxx to the appropriate value in degrees C.