1 Topic by redoverred

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Topic: Not enough of the feedscrew enters socket with "Enclosure Kit"

I built up the machine as per instructions plus I am using the enclosure kit. Unfortunately, I can only get about 1/3 to 1/2 of the feedscrew into the socket on the motor and it will not go all the way in due to the way the kit is setup for spacing. I have slightly less than 1/4 inch of the end of the feedscrew outside the pipe nipple (.220 inches exactly) so I am not sure where to make up for this extra space. I have tightened everything down as much as possible. I was thinking I could mount the motor with some washers to make up the difference, but I wanted to see if someone else had any tips or tricks. I'd need to make up 1/4 to 1/2 inch to put the end of the feedscrew all the way into the socket, even with the thrust bearing compressed.

2 Reply by redoverred (edited by redoverred 2015-02-17 06:56:38)

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Re: Not enough of the feedscrew enters socket with "Enclosure Kit"

Alright, what I ended up doing was taking four of the wooden rings that come with the enclosure kit and putting them in between the motor box and the case, so now the feedscrew end goes into the socket enough to make me at ease.

The only issue now is that the controller isn't going to fit exactly right and might hit the motor. I can angle the controller a bit, so hopefully that will work?

3 Reply by elmoret

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Re: Not enough of the feedscrew enters socket with "Enclosure Kit"

Yes, that's what the spacers are provided for. Everyone tightens the barrel into the flange different amounts, which changes how the dimensions stack up.

As for the controller, the enclosure wasn't really designed for the beta motor. It works, but there can be some interference issues if you have to use the laser cut spacers. If need be I can cut a new enclosure faceplate that moves the controller's cutout over slightly.

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4 Reply by redoverred (edited by redoverred 2015-02-17 22:42:05)

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Re: Not enough of the feedscrew enters socket with "Enclosure Kit"

It fit alright when I loosened the controller, but I'm not sure that there is a lot of room to move it over with the way everything fits in there. Maybe you could move it over about 1 spacer-width towards the front.

One thing I'm not super fond of with the enclosure is not being able to open it without removing the structural integrity of the box. It would be nice to have a front face plate that had just the outer edges (so it was missing the middle and you could see inside) and then another face plate that went on top of that with thumbscrews that could be removed for internal access. I might try to design and 3D print such a mount later, so if I do I'll post it here.

Also, a place to mount the current limiting board would be nice. Right now it's all shoved inside and I kinda have to cross my fingers that the board doesn't short out on the motor or something. I did place some plastic sheeting as a sort of separation shield between the moving parts and the wires/board, but I don't want to place too much in there.

I might cut a fan mount hole in the backplate, too, because I'm worried about the electronics getting too hot inside (specifically the motor).

Anyways, I'm about to start it up for the purging extrusion, so wish me luck! This thing is super loud, but it's nice to be able to see it work. Still working on the Filawinder, but I didn't need that ready right away anyways.

5 Reply by redoverred

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Re: Not enough of the feedscrew enters socket with "Enclosure Kit"

Everything turned out fine, I still get stall protection when I run it (I can see purple inside the box), but it extrudes at ~18 inches a minute most of the time. I did get a metal blockage a while into the first pound, but I was able to remove the nozzle and clear it.  The stall protection board is just supposed to not be red when not extruding, correct?  If not, is there a better way to calibrate the board than counting turns? I don't want to have to continuously take apart the enclosure to calibrate it.

6 Reply by elmoret

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Re: Not enough of the feedscrew enters socket with "Enclosure Kit"

Why not mount it on the outside of the enclosure?

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7 Reply by redoverred

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Re: Not enough of the feedscrew enters socket with "Enclosure Kit"

elmoret wrote:

Why not mount it on the outside of the enclosure?

Not a bad idea, I have a project to do some re-wiring for neatness and make a removable back plate so I will include some way to mount the board at the same time.

On that note, should the red LED/stall board become active during actual extrusion operation? The instructions were a bit unclear in that regard.

8 Reply by elmoret

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Re: Not enough of the feedscrew enters socket with "Enclosure Kit"

Red indicates you are in current limiting (stall protecting) mode. The best way to set the board is with a multimeter. Set the multimeter for amps and connect it to OUT+ and OUT-, with the motor disconnected. Adjust CC until you're in the 1.4-1.6A range.

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9 Reply by redoverred

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Re: Not enough of the feedscrew enters socket with "Enclosure Kit"

elmoret wrote:

Red indicates you are in current limiting (stall protecting) mode. The best way to set the board is with a multimeter. Set the multimeter for amps and connect it to OUT+ and OUT-, with the motor disconnected. Adjust CC until you're in the 1.4-1.6A range.

If only I had a decent ammeter! I might just have to "borrow" one for the day from the school's engineering lab, hehe. Thanks for the info!

10 Reply by redoverred

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Re: Not enough of the feedscrew enters socket with "Enclosure Kit"

elmoret wrote:

Adjust CC until you're in the 1.4-1.6A range.

I just bought a proper multimeter from RadioShack (going out of business sale; I also bought $375 worth of 50% off Arduinos and electronics components!!!!)  and so I will be calibrating this thing tomorrow, thanks!