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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → XYZ Printing DaVinci → What is the UHU glue stick for?
I mean, I use it, but I've just realised I don't really know why. I assumed it was to make it easier to remove the finished object from the bed at the end of the print...but now I'm not so sure...
I mean, I use it, but I've just realised I don't really know why. I assumed it was to make it easier to remove the finished object from the bed at the end of the print...but now I'm not so sure...
It actually is to help the object stick to the bed better during printing.
And whats better UHU or 3M Blue tape?
- I ordered 3m blue tape with the printer, as the seller said to use it, but I'm happy so far using the UHU
UHU is for the print to stick to the bed.
I ran out of the supplied gluestick within the first week. Never tried any blue tape or other stuff. A maxi-size UHU cost me less than €5,- and that seems to last a good while :-)
And whats better UHU or 3M Blue tape?
- I ordered 3m blue tape with the printer, as the seller said to use it, but I'm happy so far using the UHU
Blue tape has been hit and miss with me. Sometimes it worked (mainly on larger objects) but sometimes it does not. I use the elmers purple glue at this point, as it is cheaper and easier to obtain than the Uhu
The blue tape works great with PLA but not with ABS.
When I ran out of the UHU stick I switched to Elmers Purple Washable Gluesticks. A large one is less than $1 where I am and has the added benefit of being purple when wet so when you clean your bed, you can be sure you got all the glue off.
Its also more solid than the UHU stick, so its easier to apply a thin coat.
When I ran out of the UHU stick I switched to Elmers Purple Washable Gluesticks. A large one is less than $1 where I am and has the added benefit of being purple when wet so when you clean your bed, you can be sure you got all the glue off.
Its also more solid than the UHU stick, so its easier to apply a thin coat.
The best is when you throw the glue stick in a squirt bottle with some water.
Let it dissolve for a few days (shake it up here and there), then squirt the solution on your bed, and wipe it thin with a paper towel. For the first coat do 2 or 3 layers.
Then every time I do a new print I just squirt on one more layer.
When you heat up the bed the water evaporates and you're left with an ultra thin layer of glue stick. No clumping.
For the OP, the glue stick also serves as a "weak point"
With a non-level bed, it adds adhesion. But if you have a perfectly adjusted bed, ABS will adhere to the glass extremely well. Too well. (But you want a level bed otherwise you'll have tons of other print quality issues)
People have cracked their glass pulling their prints off a bare glass bed.
So the glue stick serves as a "breakaway" failsafe. In theory. I've been using my "glue juice" for 100 hours with no issues and no chipped glass.
When I ran out of the UHU stick I switched to Elmers Purple Washable Gluesticks...
Hmm I wonder what the Italian equivalent is. Is it just a colored glue stick?
For the OP, the glue stick also serves as a "weak point"
People have cracked their glass pulling their prints off a bare glass bed.
That is what I'm scared of.
jnadke wrote:For the OP, the glue stick also serves as a "weak point"
People have cracked their glass pulling their prints off a bare glass bed.That is what I'm scared of.
It has been my experience that as long as the print is cooled to room temp it just slides off. I have never had to use any effort to remove it as long as it at room temp. That can take an hour or more depending on the size and the density of the part. I think most of the chipping is just caused by impatience and people not realizing just how long it takes for a part to cool enough.
owenransen wrote:jnadke wrote:For the OP, the glue stick also serves as a "weak point"
People have cracked their glass pulling their prints off a bare glass bed.That is what I'm scared of.
It has been my experience that as long as the print is cooled to room temp it just slides off. I have never had to use any effort to remove it as long as it at room temp. That can take an hour or more depending on the size and the density of the part. I think most of the chipping is just caused by impatience and people not realizing just how long it takes for a part to cool enough.
I have seen one horror "report" of a person that [reportedly] didn't attempt to remove their print at all, and the shrinking of the part itself cracked the glass (i.e. a piece of the glass was still attached to the part and the part came off with now effort).
But yes, I wait until the temp on the front says room temperature (~20 deg) until I even attempt to remove a part. Most times it comes right off. It depends on the size of the part.
I use the purple Elmers stick, never water wash the plate anymore, just scrape the last print area a little (you can still see faint white lines) with a razor blade and re-apply the stick to that area.
I also stopped printing rafts.
Have had no issues with parts staying put anymore.
I may have to start this process all over at some point when the thickness of the glue starts to hinder the heads, but have been very happy with my last few weeks results.
The trouble is no manufacturer ever writes what is in the stick.
I'm going for the setting of the bed to higher temps as said by carl_m1968.
I'll be trying 90, 100 110 deg C on a raft that covers the whole bed.
The last try the edges at the forward left corner curled up 2mm and thus got caught.
so it is the M190 S100 / M104 S213 to be put on the SD card.
I like the idea of a completely clean glass bed.
PS Do these higher temps have any bad effect? If not, why is UHU etc glue needed at all?
(oh i see about the weak break to prevent glass breakage because of poor glass?)
Do these higher temps have any bad effect?
Setting your bed temp too high can also deform the base of your prints. Attached is a photo of a print I started and then stopped because the base was melting and the part was tipping over slightly, ruining the whole print. YOu can tell because of the lip forming on the right side of the base. (Sorry for my potato).
I had my bed set to 100C. ABS's glass point is 100-110 C depending on brand and composition.
pricecg44 wrote:Do these higher temps have any bad effect?
Setting your bed temp too high can also deform the base of your prints. Attached is a photo of a print I started and then stopped because the base was melting and the part was tipping over slightly, ruining the whole print. YOu can tell because of the lip forming on the right side of the base. (Sorry for my potato).
I had my bed set to 100C. ABS's glass point is 100-110 C depending on brand and composition.
I find this is just a fluke with this printer. I think at times the bed actually may go beyond the set print. I say this because I made three prints and the only settings I changed was the layer height. On one of those prints the base actually melted and caused the entire print to droop. The other two where fine.
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → XYZ Printing DaVinci → What is the UHU glue stick for?
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