1 Topic by Flyer007

  • Flyer007
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  • Registered: 2015-01-26
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Topic: Need help dialing in filament, corner warping starting 10layers up

Kinda at a loss here.  Running Da Vinci 2.0 with S3D

I am dialing in Hatchbox 1.75mm ABS

I have the Orange color dialed in perfect. Getting nice results on a 30mm cube with 50% infill using 225c extruder 75C bed temp 50mm/s max print speed .2 layer, extruding multiplier .93. Great bed adhesion with a 3 layer 5 width brim . Nice sharp corners, etc.

Going to translucent blue I am having problems. Still have great bed adhesion, but two corners start to warp (one worse than other) about 10 or so layers into print. This leaves peaks on top of print and a ridge along the edge connecting the two corners.

I have tried to raise the extruder temp upto 235 and down to 215 (lower extruder started clicking). I tired upping multiiplier upto 1.1

I tried placing the cube on different area of bed.

Any thoughts on this?

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2 Reply by Coin

  • Coin
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  • Registered: 2014-12-08
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Re: Need help dialing in filament, corner warping starting 10layers up

Maybe try a slower speed like 30 mm/s and try the auto extrusion width. 90-95C Bed temp. Multiplier at 1.0
Let me know if it improved.
Good luck

3 Reply by georgehine

  • georgehine
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  • Registered: 2014-11-29
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Re: Need help dialing in filament, corner warping starting 10layers up

what bed temp are you using and what are you using  to hold the print down to start with? I have best luck with the bed temp at 100c and extruder at 215 also ABS juice is amazing stuff I think.

Da Vinci 1.0 stock firmware and stock xyzware.
3D printer Noob.
Stock ABS filaments

4 Reply by jnadke

  • jnadke
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  • Registered: 2015-01-24
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Re: Need help dialing in filament, corner warping starting 10layers up

1.  First symptom of warping is always:  Level your bed.

If you use the paper trick, make sure the tension of pulling the paper is the same at all 3 points.  If one area "pulls" with more tension, the bed is not level.

This is an issue because it means your 1st layer isn't uniform, so you can have uneven forces when the filament cools and shrinks, and therefore warping.


2.  Adhesion.  Glue stick, or I use Elmer's Glue All mixed with water (7 or 8 water to 1 part glue).  Smear it thin on the bed with paper tower.  Heat the bed, the water evaporates.  It'll look like frosted glass, this works amazing.  Do more layers if you want.

Glue stick always comes out in clumps so it never works well for me.  The Glue-all gets great adhesion, but it also acts as a "weak point".  I've never cracked a glass bed, because usually the glue all fails first when pulling off a print (it adheres really well, you'll want to let the bed fully cool back to room temperature.