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Topic: Robo3D

So instead of the Workbench I decided to go with the Robo3D. This will be my first 3d printer and I made the decision due to the large lead times on the workbench and the issues it seemed to be having. As a noob with a small understanding of how these machines worked I felt that the Robo3D was priced well at 800, with a 10x9x8 print bed being pretty decently sized, and the filament and software are not locked into a proprietary filament, and didnt seem to need as much technical tinkering.

Hopefully I should have my Robo within the next week or so and I will post my review on getting it out of the box and initial set up ease for a newbie.

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Re: Robo3D

I'm also somewhat of a newbie, only used a Makerbot Replicator 2, so I'm very interested in what you'll have to say. Please post more when you receive it and start to get it working!

We've just received our Workbench yesterday and if you're interested I'll be posting about it under the Workbench threads.

FuseBox 1.5 CoreXY - e3dv6 - Graphic Smart Display
Solidoodle 2 - e3dv6 - Hobb Goblin - e3d Titan - lawsy carriages - Direct Drive Y Axis - T8 Z axis - OctoPi

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Re: Robo3D

I decided to go with the Robo3D.

CC
Looking forward to your reviews and experience with it.
I would expect some tinkering . Hopefully not as much as the SD or Davinci.  IIRC the do have dual z motors and scews so you will need to watch them and keep them synchronized.
Tin

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

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Re: Robo3D

Hey Tin,
I'm a severe newb at this. I obviously understand that by dual z steppers you mean that there are two motors that drive the movement of the z axis. But to help me out could you explain how these are typically synchronized? I know that things vary from model to model but any general tips to help me out?

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Re: Robo3D

Well CC I have an sd 4 with a single Z lead screw but these can wiggle a bit and effect print quality.
but the dual z should be more stable as both sides of the bed are supported not just one side.

So some general advice  and info then will attempt to answer your question.
First of all go to the ROBO3D site and download the getting started pdf file.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B10g8o … view?pli=1

Then read through the control program documents  in this case matter control seems to be the recommended software and last but not least look over the Slic3r documentation  . you will likely have to look over these a few times. If most of it seems like Greek or GEEK  do not worry you will understand it in time.  Get a feel for the layout of the manuals and what setting effect  the print  and how. When you have a question go back and find the answer.
Also IIRC Robo 3d has a forum, join it and you have a second resource to ask questions of users.
Now for you question
here is partial answer from the manual. The z limit switches sit on coupler nuts it is important that these are properly seated.
Sorry to cause you concern just make you the z axis is properly aligned and lubricated and the z stop is set correctly . you just have to to check 2 instead of one.
Hope this help you .
http://manual.slic3r.org/
http://www.mattercontrol.com/

Tin

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

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Re: Robo3D

Hey Tin,
Thanks for the info. I have read the manual and now that you mention it I know what you are talking about. There is a nut that sits down into a plastic looking piece (may be metal...not sure).

Lets say those get out of whack, and one is sitting higher than the other. Do you just manually move the bed with your hands to get them realigned and then reseat the nut?

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Re: Robo3D

Hoping to receive my Robo3D by Tuesday and have a review for you guys by Sunday!