Topic: Extruder temperature
How close is the displayed or set temperature of the extruder on the Da Vinci?
I have a laser temp gun and can get a good bed reading but not on the extruder.
I suspect the extruder might be a bit hotter than it says.
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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → XYZ Printing DaVinci → Extruder temperature
How close is the displayed or set temperature of the extruder on the Da Vinci?
I have a laser temp gun and can get a good bed reading but not on the extruder.
I suspect the extruder might be a bit hotter than it says.
Should be within a few degrees. The heat source is too small for an accurate reading with a non-contact temp probe. I checked mine with my multimeter that has a thermal couple and it was 1 degree off. Actually the display was just slow to update. The real temp would change and it would take about a second for the LCD to update.
and how hot can the extruder go.
I got some PETg filament and was told it works best at 240c.
I set the cart to 240c and it just shut down the extruder heater.
I tried 230c and after a few layers it starts clicking and jams.
I might give up on this filament.
I believe 240 is just about where the stock firmware safety kicks in. Also a 1.0 and a 1.0A cannot do anything but ABS. The 1.0A is supposed to be able to print PLA but several have found more heatsinking has to be added to the hot ends throat. PET has similar qualities to PLA so you are seeing the same issues as others. Unless as I said you have a 1.0 then can only print ABS and nothing else without extensive mods.
I believe 240 is just about where the stock firmware safety kicks in. Also a 1.0 and a 1.0A cannot do anything but ABS. The 1.0A is supposed to be able to print PLA but several have found more heatsinking has to be added to the hot ends throat. PET has similar qualities to PLA so you are seeing the same issues as others. Unless as I said you have a 1.0 then can only print ABS and nothing else without extensive mods.
I have the 1.0A and have successfully printed off several models with PLA, esun brand filament.
However PLA did not look any better and was more brittle and not as strong so I went back to ABS.
The PET looked like a great alternative with the qualities of PLA and stronger than ABS and food safe.
If only it would print.
carl_m1968 wrote:I believe 240 is just about where the stock firmware safety kicks in. Also a 1.0 and a 1.0A cannot do anything but ABS. The 1.0A is supposed to be able to print PLA but several have found more heatsinking has to be added to the hot ends throat. PET has similar qualities to PLA so you are seeing the same issues as others. Unless as I said you have a 1.0 then can only print ABS and nothing else without extensive mods.
I have the 1.0A and have successfully printed off several models with PLA, esun brand filament.
However PLA did not look any better and was more brittle and not as strong so I went back to ABS.
The PET looked like a great alternative with the qualities of PLA and stronger than ABS and food safe.
If only it would print.
PLA is also food safe and FDA approved. It is the same thing they make vegetable packaging from.. It also breaks down in the environment faster then PET.
Your issue is the higher temp required. Without flashing to Repetier firmware and raising the extruder heaters max set point then your are not going to be able to go to 240. Repetier has it set at 250 which is the norm.
leenanj wrote:carl_m1968 wrote:I believe 240 is just about where the stock firmware safety kicks in. Also a 1.0 and a 1.0A cannot do anything but ABS. The 1.0A is supposed to be able to print PLA but several have found more heatsinking has to be added to the hot ends throat. PET has similar qualities to PLA so you are seeing the same issues as others. Unless as I said you have a 1.0 then can only print ABS and nothing else without extensive mods.
I have the 1.0A and have successfully printed off several models with PLA, esun brand filament.
However PLA did not look any better and was more brittle and not as strong so I went back to ABS.
The PET looked like a great alternative with the qualities of PLA and stronger than ABS and food safe.
If only it would print.PLA is also food safe and FDA approved. It is the same thing they make vegetable packaging from.. It also breaks down in the environment faster then PET.
Your issue is the higher temp required. Without flashing to Repetier firmware and raising the extruder heaters max set point then your are not going to be able to go to 240. Repetier has it set at 250 which is the norm.
Ah I did not know PLA was food safe.
I did read it did not hold liquid very well, especially hot beverage.
I wanted to make a big coffee mug.
As far as Repetier I would love to switch but I'm afraid at this point with the 1.0A not being stable
and no clear instructions on how to do it I would brick my printer.
carl_m1968 wrote:leenanj wrote:I have the 1.0A and have successfully printed off several models with PLA, esun brand filament.
However PLA did not look any better and was more brittle and not as strong so I went back to ABS.
The PET looked like a great alternative with the qualities of PLA and stronger than ABS and food safe.
If only it would print.PLA is also food safe and FDA approved. It is the same thing they make vegetable packaging from.. It also breaks down in the environment faster then PET.
Your issue is the higher temp required. Without flashing to Repetier firmware and raising the extruder heaters max set point then your are not going to be able to go to 240. Repetier has it set at 250 which is the norm.
Ah I did not know PLA was food safe.
I did read it did not hold liquid very well, especially hot beverage.
I wanted to make a big coffee mug.As far as Repetier I would love to switch but I'm afraid at this point with the 1.0A not being stable
and no clear instructions on how to do it I would brick my printer.
Printed PLA most certainly would not be "food safe".
Food safe is a function of two things:
1. Toxicity of the materials (PLA is fairly non-toxic)
2. Ability to maintain cleanliness
#2 will not be met by any 3D printed part. The micro-grooves from extruding filament creates areas for bacteria to grow.
Also, PLA is not suitable for liquids. It readily absorbs moisture and becomes more brittle as it absorbs moisture.
That said, if you're doing something like a cookie cutter, you could just print it and use it once and recycle/toss it. Or a container for an inert solid (one that isn't conducive to bacteria growth).
The larger issue is the water absorption. PLA and ABS absorb water (PLA is worse), and anytime there's water + food things grow.
leenanj wrote:carl_m1968 wrote:PLA is also food safe and FDA approved. It is the same thing they make vegetable packaging from.. It also breaks down in the environment faster then PET.
Your issue is the higher temp required. Without flashing to Repetier firmware and raising the extruder heaters max set point then your are not going to be able to go to 240. Repetier has it set at 250 which is the norm.
Ah I did not know PLA was food safe.
I did read it did not hold liquid very well, especially hot beverage.
I wanted to make a big coffee mug.As far as Repetier I would love to switch but I'm afraid at this point with the 1.0A not being stable
and no clear instructions on how to do it I would brick my printer.Printed PLA most certainly would not be "food safe".
Food safe is a function of two things:
1. Toxicity of the materials (PLA is fairly non-toxic)
2. Ability to maintain cleanliness#2 will not be met by any 3D printed part. The micro-grooves from extruding filament creates areas for bacteria to grow.
Also, PLA is not suitable for liquids. It readily absorbs moisture and becomes more brittle as it absorbs moisture.
That said, if you're doing something like a cookie cutter, you could just print it and use it once and recycle/toss it. Or a container for an inert solid (one that isn't conducive to bacteria growth).
The larger issue is the water absorption. PLA and ABS absorb water (PLA is worse), and anytime there's water + food things grow.
Notice I said PLA was food safe, and FDA approved. I did not say printed PLA was. All I said is the PLA we use is the same as the blow/vacuum formed stuff used in food packaging. It is true due to our finish it would not be safe for continued use. Even vapor finishing would still not make it safe as it would still be pouros. Yes you can vapor finish PLA just like ABS but the chemical you have to use is Tetrahydrofuran or THF and I would advise you to read the MSDS on it multiple times before you decide to use it. That stuff makes Acetone seem like Coolaid.
The part about forming explosive peroxides if allowed to evaporate is what gets me.
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