1 Topic by cshenefield

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Topic: Extruder Heater - No 12V

Hi everyone,

I had my Da Vinci extruder stop heating.  I replaced the connector, but that didn't fix it.  I swapped in a new heater and added a ground wire on the print head carriage (like I've seen elsewhere here), and that worked.  Great.  Worked for about 2 days.

But then I tried to print again, and it's broken now again.  This time I have no voltage at the main board pins.  I'm reading about Mosfets and whatnot, but that's a bit beyond me.

I fear I may have a bad board now... maybe I shorted something out?  Not sure.  I don't see anything burned.

Anyone have any help for me?  smile

Thanks!!!
Chris in Dallas, PA

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2 Reply by cshenefield

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Re: Extruder Heater - No 12V

oh and btw that attachment is not my specific board... it's just one like mine.  I circled and commented on what I'm doing.
Thanks a million to anyone who can help.
Chris

3 Reply by darkhawk (edited by darkhawk 2015-01-26 00:19:25)

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Re: Extruder Heater - No 12V

is there 12V on the pins of the FET?
I'd come help you but Wilkkes Barre is a bit far from me in Lancaster.

4 Reply by cshenefield

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Re: Extruder Heater - No 12V

Thanks for your help!

I have done some learning, but I still don't know much about this.  I do know about the source, gate, and drain.  I am testing the mosfet that's toward the top left of the board (as the printer sits naturally), just above a capacitor.

When I test voltage with the printer ON but not trying to heat the extruder is 13V from pin 1 to 2 (2 being the stub in the middle) and 13V from 2 to 3.  And 0V from 1 to 3.

And this mosfet doesn't have a middle pin that connects to anything...  am I correct that it is simply a test point for the drain because the actual drain connection is the mounting pad of the mosfet?

Does that mean anything to you?  I'll wait to take the board out of the machine until I hear back from you... but I get the sense that's gonna happen.  smile

Thanks again...  I'd be happy to send this board to you for repair if needed (I'd like to get this running again).  I have some soldering experience, but VERY little with surface mount stuff... and I'm definitely not much more than a novice with this stuff.

Chris Shenefield

5 Reply by carl_m1968

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Re: Extruder Heater - No 12V

Just an FYI, I am a technician by trade and I can tell you with certainty that the MOSFET in that picture is for the bed heater which pulls much more current the head. Those two black screw terminal near it are the bed heater and I bet if you check cont between those two two terminals and that MOSFET you will find that one is connected to it while the other is ground or common. The head has a 40watt 12 volt heater. The head heater will only draw 3 amps so the MOSFET will be much smaller than that one. The bed heater will pull closer to 6 amps on up to 9 max.

The MOSFET for the head is that very small square SMT device just up and to the right of the white connector. You can even see the visible trace in the board going from it to the connector. MOSFET technology has made leaps in recent years and they can be very small now and still handle considerable current due to the fact they have a thermal slug in their center that is soldered directly to the thermal plane in the board to dissipate the heat.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

6 Reply by cshenefield

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Re: Extruder Heater - No 12V

Wow...  thanks for that info.  Makes sense.  I've taken a picture of my actual board's 12V output to the heater.  And holy moly that mosfet is tiny.   I looked it up and see a pin spec that makes sense... one side is 3 sources and 1 gate...the other side is 4 drains, all leading to the plug I suppose.

Amazing how that little mosfet can flow enough current to more or less burn up the entire extruder head if it wanted to.

Thanks!  Great info.  btw....  I tried to test that mosfet, but the feet/pins are so small.  At one point I was seeing voltage ramp down on the drains, then nothing.  then nothing.  then nothing.

Frustrating to work on something like this.  Maybe I just need to get a new board to try.  I'll need to buy one though... I've been trying this effing thing to work by cutting plugs out and swapping heats (the latter of which worked for a couple days).

Getting ready to throw this off a bridge.
Chris

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7 Reply by carl_m1968

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Re: Extruder Heater - No 12V

cshenefield wrote:

Wow...  thanks for that info.  Makes sense.  I've taken a picture of my actual board's 12V output to the heater.  And holy moly that mosfet is tiny.   I looked it up and see a pin spec that makes sense... one side is 3 sources and 1 gate...the other side is 4 drains, all leading to the plug I suppose.

Amazing how that little mosfet can flow enough current to more or less burn up the entire extruder head if it wanted to.

Thanks!  Great info.  btw....  I tried to test that mosfet, but the feet/pins are so small.  At one point I was seeing voltage ramp down on the drains, then nothing.  then nothing.  then nothing.

Frustrating to work on something like this.  Maybe I just need to get a new board to try.  I'll need to buy one though... I've been trying this effing thing to work by cutting plugs out and swapping heats (the latter of which worked for a couple days).

Getting ready to throw this off a bridge.
Chris


Measure across c24 next to Q1 which as you confirmed is your head MOSFET. Measure C24 and see if it shows as a short on resistance measurement. If it shows as a short then Q1 is shorted and will need to be replaced. Not possible by a person whom solders at home due to the thermal plane under the part. You would need an IR/Hot air rework station and solder paste. I do this type of rework at my job all the time. If C24 is not shorted it still could mean Q1 is bad. It has become open rather than shorted. Then there is still the possibility of something being wrong in the Processor or firmware that is just not telling it to switch on. But if it did work then my guess is that Q1 has been blown and shorted. Could have happened if you cleaned the head wit that wire brush and the wires on the heater where exposed and got shorted by the brush.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

8 Reply by cshenefield

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Re: Extruder Heater - No 12V

resistance across c24 is showing ~3.5 M ohm (3,500,000?).  So, just about open?  It is possible I shorted the heater wires.

I will look for some place to send the board to change out that mosfet.  I'll also check cost on the board new from XYZ, which might be the best option for cost and time.

Thanks for your help so far!!  I'll keep this updated through to the fix for reference.  Carl, you have paypal where I can send a thank you?  I spend lots of time on car forums because that's my expertise.... helping people like me.  smile  Thanks!

Chris

9 Reply by cshenefield

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Re: Extruder Heater - No 12V

I contacted XYZ customer support and they were back to me within 6 hours.  great!  They do not sell the board but are asking for me to send it in for repair (and possible a warranty claim).

I'll continue to update everyone.
Chris

10 Reply by akhlad.alabhar

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Re: Extruder Heater - No 12V

I have the same issue, any updates ...

11 Reply by carl_m1968

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Re: Extruder Heater - No 12V

cshenefield wrote:

resistance across c24 is showing ~3.5 M ohm (3,500,000?).  So, just about open?  It is possible I shorted the heater wires.

I will look for some place to send the board to change out that mosfet.  I'll also check cost on the board new from XYZ, which might be the best option for cost and time.

Thanks for your help so far!!  I'll keep this updated through to the fix for reference.  Carl, you have paypal where I can send a thank you?  I spend lots of time on car forums because that's my expertise.... helping people like me.  smile  Thanks!

Chris

C24 is a capacitor. Unless shorted they should have a high reading. The Resistors are what gets blown and they are marked Rxx. The only fix is to find which ones are not measuring 10 ohms or less and replace them. You don't need to thank me, I just like to help others but if you feel you want to, then I will PM you the Paypal address.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.