Vertical Cylinders

I would suggest using a brim and raft. The prime is a single layer of material that can be set to certain width. That is attached to the perimeter of the object and can later be removed. It greatly increases the contact area for better adhesion on small parts.

Still relatively new to 3d printing, never used a brim before. Makes sense for adhesion on this type of print. Thanks for the pointers, will post on the results. BTW - I'm using Simplify3D and Repetier firmware - even if you're on stock, I'd suggest checking it out. Not cheap, but even when I was running stock firmware I found it invaluable.

I loaded the parts into simplify3d and looking it over I would use a skirt with 4 outlines with zero offset. you really only need 2 outlines but the others will prime the nozzle better. I would run the supports in standard configuration but change the overhang angle to 35degrees so you will get full support otherwise it only will support the holes.  but what I would suggest is running multiple processes and using more heavy infill just on the bottom section of the print so it give it more weight and stability then go to a lighter infill from that point to save time and now the heaviest part of the print will be at the bottom so it will be less likely to pop off the build plate when working on the top .

Do you have all the holes blocked where outside air can affect you bed temps? I've had better results since I blocked mine, even read where a guy threw a blanket over his entire machine, though I don't recommend this, your machine needs some ability to dissipate heat. I also keep my room temp higher in the print room.

Temp control for 3D Printing is not that critical. i have been doing this for over 6 years. My last printer was a 3DStuffmaker and completely open frame. No enclosure what so ever. Look at Prusa one of the oldest and still mainstream printers out there. You can't get any more open than that.

My point is 99% of all adhesion and most print problems are all caused by poor bed leveling and improper bed height. The thread I mad with the .1mm prints for reference was done on that open frame printer and that base on that owl is 25 x 15mm and I did not use a raft or brim. It printed for 8 hours and never came loose or budged in any way.

Keep your bed at 110. measure this with an IR thermometer or other method to confirm 110 is 110. If not compensate.

Assure your bed is level or as level as possible in reference to your nozzle.

Make sure your bed is at the right height. Do not use the built in calibration as it does not set the bed to the correct height. Confirm the correct height by using a single sheet of paper that should just drag between the nozzle and bed at all four corners and in the middle. You could also use .15mm feeler gauge unless you are trying to print at .1mm. Then you will need to use a .05 feeler gauge and a single sheet of paper will make your nozzle too high.

I cannot stress how important bed height and leveling is to a successful print. It is the number one most important step you can take.

When I first started printing I too did not believe it would make that big of a difference. Now six years later I know better and have a 90% average of successful prints. The only failures I get now are the occasional thingiverse I give the benefit of a doubt to and not run through nettfab.

OK, so the cylinders printed great, but the skirt was a pain to get off and while my spool is functional, my settings are definitely not the best solution for this kind of thing. I'll take Carl's advice and make it one or two layers in the future.

Carl - one other question: what speed do you find the DaVinci (or other printers for that matter) run well at? i.e.: what is the max/min you feel are usable? I'm wondering if I'm running my heads too slowly - 20-30mm/sec with ABS depending on quality.