Alternative to Glue Stick

Thanks for the tips! I will probably order some soon.

-Andrew

i use blue painters tape.

Very interesting, I have to check those settings out on my tests.

The xyz  abs white for now is all I have, only into 3rd week since owning Davinci 1,  I am learning lots.
I ordered a 3rd party filament off amazon,  I have not tested any PLA, nylon yet or the others, I do plan on if its possible,
to use it.

My glass testing is only in the early stages, so far there are few issues like sticking to glass like superglue , the solution so far is if you get it off the glass asap like a  few seconds after the print finished, when bed temp is 100+ it comes off easy then all I need scrape of the  support or brims and cut out the inside supports, if you miss that temp you have put the bed temp back up to 100+ to remove it, again no big issues.  so far no messy glue or tape, only thing I am little concerned  about is the higher bed temps would shorten my bed life, that's prob not issue.

I am liking this printer with the Repetier, slic3r,  the flexibility of the printing and settings is impressive, I have had 1st layer print tests so thin that it looked like a coffee stain pattern less than .1 mm, very impressive. for $500. 

Firmware I am using Repetier-host v1.06/0.91alpha now with 3rparty cutters like slic3r, still want to test KISS and Cura out , and my 3d cad modeling software is lightwave with cad plugin, soildworks or autocad2015. 

I gave up on the crappy drm infested xyzware and well openmod was crashing too much to waste any more time on it.
I  have had few crashes with Repetier host software, looks like it has memory leak eating up all my video memory with draw calls, and  firmware  lockups ont he printer but not allot, its still be developed so I expected that, very happy so far.
wont be using the locked down xyz crap ware again.

I use a glue stick you can buy at any office supply place on my 1.0

I use blue tape for abs. And blue tape with glue stick for large planar surfaces (also brims help). For pla I use blue tape with airspray for planar surfaces or just 50-60C with glue stick for less stressfull surfaces.

For PLA you should just be able to use hot dry and bare glass. If your bed is calibrated properly. This was one of the reasons PLA was adapted to printers in order to remove the need for glue, tape, and so on.

Well true for pla. I forgot to mention that latelly I mostly use wood pla and some brands are quite hard to avoid warp

Did you see a difference between the white and purple? I tried both and they seemed the same, purple also wipes off with a wet towel and is a little easier to see where I've laid down. I generally run the bed at 100 - do we know what max recommended temps are for bed? Or for extruders for that matter - I worry about running at 250C regularly.

The extruder has a Teflon or PEET insert and should not be run nor have to run at over 240 for even the crappiest filament. I run at 210 to 225 max for all the filaments I have tried so far. As for the bed I run at and have always run at 110 for ABS and 80 for PLA. That includes all my previous printers as well. Those are somewhat standard temps for the industry. I however would not go over 150 as you will find the screws and nuts get hot enough to damage the insets they are in and cause the nuts under the bed to free spin and make adjusting impossible.

Mine got up to 180 once because Repetier Host locked up with the heater on. Since it was locked up it was not controlling the heat as it should so the bed as well as the extruder where on runaway. The only thing that alerted me was the smell of ABS that is too hot. Once I power cycled the printer, the extruder was at 310 and the bed at 180. Not sure why the firmware safety did not kick in unless maybe it was the firmware that locked up instead of the Host. Anyways that high temp caused the nuts to melt the inside edges of the recesses the nuts sit in so they would free soin when trying to adjust the bed.

Because of this little mishap is why am moving to a more proven board and firmware as well as the PICO hot end that is safe as and can take as high as 500C.

What is your bed temp? I print at 110 and as said previously use only Elmers Glue Sticks and have had no issues with lifting, curling, or separations. I also do not cover the unit or anything else. All I did is used the inserts for the hand holes and that was it.

I have found not cleaning the bed between each print had adverse affects as well. The glue does not bond as well with older layers of glue as it does with clean glass.

I just got my 1.0a two days ago (not my first 3D printer)....this the New Egg Deal (7 carts + 1.0a printer for $469.00 shipped).

First two prints were with very light uhu stick. Cleaned glass and next 3 prints were on bare glass...worked fine. I am printing straight to glass, no rafts, and using standard XYZ ABS carts.

I get THICK Kapton from McMaster-Carr. I use this on my R2X's and they last months. Plus at .005" thick, it gives you a little 'give'.
(this ----> http://www.mcmaster.com/#2271k73/=vgrlg5 )

I haven't printed many prints but I am quite impressed with this 'cheap' printer....

Jay

Just an update.
Ive completed a number additional prints using the ABS acetone glue.  So far it is much easier and more successful than using the glue stick, no need to layer glue or wash remnants from the print.  I have not had any prints lifting from the bed so Im happy.