26 (edited by OneMoreCast 2015-01-04 20:30:13)

Re: Noob awaiting an SD4

Wire yup thats my plan once calibrated all parts will be made so I dont have to rely on fellow builder. And tin yeah, since SD shipping is slower than molasses in winter I have had plenty of time to read watch vids tinker with RH and Slic3r and my design programs and learn a tad so some good can come from waiting for almost a month

"All your base are belong to us." SD4 with a RUMBA, supernight PS, 40mm fan on X motor, lawsey carriages with new better tolerance rods, flanged rear bearings, new NEMA 17 with leadscrew on Z-Axis, and e3d v6 with MK5.


Ward and Jago are my heroes tongue

27 (edited by knowack 2015-01-04 21:17:03)

Re: Noob awaiting an SD4

Once you get your SD4 dialed in, I think you'll be quite pleased.

On a horizontal 25mm disk, I have only .03mm of deviation, on a vertical 25mm disk, i have .06mm of deviation.  I'm extremely satisfied with the accuracy of gears, auto parts, etc that I print; I don't see a need for me to try for anything beyond that!

This is especially useful when printing things like that NASA wrench that is printed as one single print, moving parts and all, and works right out of the printer.  Its a great demonstration of 3D printing capabilities.

This week, I'll try to take some photos of the mods I've found to be helpful.

Edit:
FWIW, I've found ABS easier to work with than PLA when doing set-up and calibration (your results may vary).  Not all suppliers of filament are created equal, and some suppliers' quality varies greatly from spool to spool.  I got very lucky with my first spool of filament; the second sucked.  The only redeeming fact was that I knew my printer had been working well, so I knew it was the filament.  If I'd have got the second spool first, I would have probably given up on my SD4...not the printer's fault.  With the supplier I use now, I don't even have to measure and adjust extrusion rates between spools.

28 (edited by redbarret 2015-01-04 20:55:01)

Re: Noob awaiting an SD4

This might be a slight off topic but I think the OP will be interested to know himself as he bought an E3D.
When you move the extruder all the way to the front of the heatbed, is there enough room between the enclosure window and the hotend fan? Or will they collide and the front enclosure has to be modified?

Solidoodle 4

29

Re: Noob awaiting an SD4

Red I cant say foe sure yet as I dont have parts, but from pics and vids I have seen it does not seem as fan will interfere w the door. The heatsink fan i believe sticks out same, and optional fan for PLA can be side mounted so that isnt an issue (from what ive seen w clearence on right side of enclosure)

"All your base are belong to us." SD4 with a RUMBA, supernight PS, 40mm fan on X motor, lawsey carriages with new better tolerance rods, flanged rear bearings, new NEMA 17 with leadscrew on Z-Axis, and e3d v6 with MK5.


Ward and Jago are my heroes tongue

30

Re: Noob awaiting an SD4

redbarret wrote:

Let us know of your progress.

BTW, maybe give the stock hotend a try before upgrading to E3D. Unless you need to use non ABS/PLA filament with higher melting point, I don't think the stock hotend on SD4 is bad, unlike everything else tongue

+1.  I got phenomenal results using the stock for over 6 month.  However, once it clogged, I was unable to clean it adequately.  Solidoodle took several weeks to send the replacement and when it came it was the wrong assembly.  I wasn't too happy with the condition the printer originally arrived in so this is what pushed me over the edge to get an E3D.  I will not be sending any more money their way.  The E3D works great.  So far, I have had no reasons to replace the carriage or extruder (but that may come in time).  If you do get an E3Dv6, I made a fan shroud to fit the original carriage you may be interested in: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:621383.

31

Re: Noob awaiting an SD4

Thanks tick ill grab that file...yeah I ordered e3d days ago along w every other mod (just in case) along with spare parts and stuff ill print out yours as well

"All your base are belong to us." SD4 with a RUMBA, supernight PS, 40mm fan on X motor, lawsey carriages with new better tolerance rods, flanged rear bearings, new NEMA 17 with leadscrew on Z-Axis, and e3d v6 with MK5.


Ward and Jago are my heroes tongue

32 (edited by redbarret 2015-01-05 13:01:44)

Re: Noob awaiting an SD4

knowack, again, please show us your results here or somewhere http://www.soliforum.com/post/77180/#p77180

BTW when you get a clog on stock hotend, you can probably replace the nozzle with this. http://www.ebay.com/itm/MG-Plus-Nozzle- … 4ad1188681

OneMoreCast wrote:

Red I cant say foe sure yet as I dont have parts, but from pics and vids I have seen it does not seem as fan will interfere w the door. The heatsink fan i believe sticks out same, and optional fan for PLA can be side mounted so that isnt an issue (from what ive seen w clearence on right side of enclosure)

Okay then.
But for the fan for overhangs/PLA I'm not really optimistic. There are few designs on Thingiverse and probably more I haven't seen yet, but from those I've seen mounting them to the side will be a worse idea, you will hit the left and right part of the carriage respectively unless you cut few cm in the X printing area (like the "Solidoodle Workbench Apprentice" did to make room for wider dual hotend extruder).
The front window is plexiglass (acrylic) and attached to the injection molded door with few screws. I guess you could get a plexiglass cutter, cut few pieces and glue them together (cheap superglue works perfect). Something like this
http://i.imgur.com/hZzngOv.png
Easier than replacing the whole front door.

Sometimes I feel like replacing the whole side enclosure pieces with plexiglass with glued magnets on them. Easier to disassemble. And front door made of plexiglass too.

Solidoodle 4

33 (edited by TickTock 2015-01-05 14:53:08)

Re: Noob awaiting an SD4

redbarret wrote:

This might be a slight off topic but I think the OP will be interested to know himself as he bought an E3D.
When you move the extruder all the way to the front of the heatbed, is there enough room between the enclosure window and the hotend fan? Or will they collide and the front enclosure has to be modified?

I can confirm that the E3Dv6 mounted in the stock SD4 carriage *does not* reduce the Y travel at all.  I even put a "v6" fan cover on it (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:607114) and with that added dimension it still doesn't touch the door when pulled forward.  My fan shroud mount, OTOH, *does* limit the X travel about 6mm.  I will probably produce an updated version today with the bottom left corner removed where it contacts the Y carriage.

http://www.soliforum.com/misc.php?action=pun_attachment&item=7264

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34 (edited by redbarret 2015-01-05 21:33:41)

Re: Noob awaiting an SD4

Hm, the bottom fan on the left only limits the x movement by 6mm? You mean + the >1cm from the stock fan on the left of the extruder added in Solidoodle 4?
Doesn't sound that bad.

is there a Thing file for the bottom fan mount?

Solidoodle 4

35 (edited by jagowilson 2015-01-05 22:34:57)

Re: Noob awaiting an SD4

On the lawsy carriage it does reduce travel a bit but the trick is to just rotate the fan 90 degrees... If you're worried about travel the side fan takes away more. I removed it and have no issues. Prior SD models use the stock hotend without the fan just fine so what is the purpose?

If anything I'm more interested in knowing how you made the e3d fit in the stock aluminum. I have my block somewhere. Isn't the e3d too big, even if you drill out the holes? Did you grind the heat sink?

36 (edited by redbarret 2015-01-05 23:21:15)

Re: Noob awaiting an SD4

I'll need to print one and see. Which one do you guys use (Thingiverse link)?

jagowilson wrote:

On the lawsy carriage it does reduce travel a bit but the trick is to just rotate the fan 90 degrees... If you're worried about travel the side fan takes away more. I removed it and have no issues. Prior SD models use the stock hotend without the fan just fine so what is the purpose?

I think something to do with preventing the filament from warming up and flexing while extruded down or something.
...maybe we could use *that* fan? That will make it an easy mod.

BTW jago, did you remove the aluminum holder on which the extruder motor and the fans are screwed on? It seems to be only necessary for the fan they added on the left to me. You can screw the other fan on the back without it in the middle, same for screwing the extruder motor on the carriage.

Solidoodle 4

37

Re: Noob awaiting an SD4

You have to for the center carriage mount lawsy designed, the motor is too tall otherwise.

38

Re: Noob awaiting an SD4

Sorry, what do you mean by too tall?

Solidoodle 4

39 (edited by jagowilson 2015-01-05 23:35:56)

Re: Noob awaiting an SD4

The aluminum plate attaches to the motor via 50mm bolts on the fan and the plate covers the back, left and bottom of the motor. The bottom makes the motor stand too high and you can't align the holes on the motor, center carriage and mk5. All of this really only matters with the linear bearings conversion. I'm just saying I think it's fine to take that fan off. You have to keep the aluminum to use the stock carriage anyway because it bolts the motor to the center carriage through 3 holes in the bottom of the plate, and the motor doesn't have those holes.

40

Re: Noob awaiting an SD4

oh, yeah

Solidoodle 4

41

Re: Noob awaiting an SD4

jagowilson wrote:

On the lawsy carriage it does reduce travel a bit but the trick is to just rotate the fan 90 degrees... If you're worried about travel the side fan takes away more. I removed it and have no issues. Prior SD models use the stock hotend without the fan just fine so what is the purpose?

If anything I'm more interested in knowing how you made the e3d fit in the stock aluminum. I have my block somewhere. Isn't the e3d too big, even if you drill out the holes? Did you grind the heat sink?

All I did was chuck the E3D aluminum heatsink into the lathe and removed the top flange.  It then fit perfectly into the hole where the stock extruder went and the set screw holds it there.

The new fan actually misses the Y carriage (slides underneath).  The 6mm travel reduction is from the frame of the upper fan grill hitting.  Interesting comment about removing the side fan.  I think removing it all-together will buy you 10mm more travel over stock.

42

Re: Noob awaiting an SD4

Especially with an e3d you don't need that fan. The heatsink should be borderline room temp with the it has fan on it. Mine is cool enough to grab with my bare hands even after several hours of printing.

43 (edited by OneMoreCast 2015-01-06 03:28:26)

Re: Noob awaiting an SD4

Let me hop back in with my dumbness...what fans should and shouldnt I have on my e3d...and I will be printing mainly ABS but occasionaly PLA...also want to take a stab at flex filament and acetal (even with its insane difficulty and hazards...thats more a project type deal so ABS, PLA, maybe flex once and a blue moon) thank you sirs. You are all scholars and gentlemen.

Mike

"All your base are belong to us." SD4 with a RUMBA, supernight PS, 40mm fan on X motor, lawsey carriages with new better tolerance rods, flanged rear bearings, new NEMA 17 with leadscrew on Z-Axis, and e3d v6 with MK5.


Ward and Jago are my heroes tongue

44 (edited by jagowilson 2015-01-06 03:39:57)

Re: Noob awaiting an SD4

the heatsink fan is the only one required, it's the small 30mm fan. anything else is optional.

by the way I recently printed and started using this mount. The locking ring removed a little bit of slop I had in my hotend. Unfortunately my printer isn't accurate enough for wardjr's mount. I recommend this one if you have any doubts about the accuracy of your printer when you set it up.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:431363

45

Re: Noob awaiting an SD4

Thanks Jag, yeah already snagged those files along with others...I have parts...files...no printer. Going stir crazy

"All your base are belong to us." SD4 with a RUMBA, supernight PS, 40mm fan on X motor, lawsey carriages with new better tolerance rods, flanged rear bearings, new NEMA 17 with leadscrew on Z-Axis, and e3d v6 with MK5.


Ward and Jago are my heroes tongue

46

Re: Noob awaiting an SD4

I remember getting mine and then not being able to print for a week because I couldn't figure out the belt tensioners or how to make the bed home right wink that was stir crazy

47

Re: Noob awaiting an SD4

Oh I plan on spending hours before I can print...at least it will be here. Headaches and all

"All your base are belong to us." SD4 with a RUMBA, supernight PS, 40mm fan on X motor, lawsey carriages with new better tolerance rods, flanged rear bearings, new NEMA 17 with leadscrew on Z-Axis, and e3d v6 with MK5.


Ward and Jago are my heroes tongue

48

Re: Noob awaiting an SD4

jagowilson wrote:

the heatsink fan is the only one required, it's the small 30mm fan. anything else is optional.

by the way I recently printed and started using this mount. The locking ring removed a little bit of slop I had in my hotend. Unfortunately my printer isn't accurate enough for wardjr's mount. I recommend this one if you have any doubts about the accuracy of your printer when you set it up.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:431363

Hmmm, maybe it's time you dial that thing in wink

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

49

Re: Noob awaiting an SD4

it's an ongoing struggle tongue one fix at a time. someday i won't have a loose everything

50

Re: Noob awaiting an SD4

I'm a little confused. I've read that Lawsy's MK5 doesn't fit the E3D v6 right. Is that true?

What is the best solution for an SD4 with an E3D v6? I'd rather use the standard setup, I don't have the tools or machinery to, for example, turn down the top portion.

If I do need to print a new extruder, what is the best material? And what do you think of using a service that prints in resin so that it will be much more accurate fit wise?