1 Topic by machenmusik

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Topic: new 0.1mm profile -- heated bed?

Having found a little time to play with the printer toward the holiday break, I realized that a new 0.1mm profile had been released, and dutifully configured Slic3r appropriately.

However, it appears that the new Slic3r settings are turning off the heated bed, so the following catastrophes happen:

(1) the printer doesn't wait until the printer is at (first layer or overall) bed temperature before printing starts
(2) things don't stick of course because the bed is cold

Was that intentional?  If so, you may want to give a heads up to folks somewhere in the instructions for using these settings.

2 Reply by Donitz (edited by Donitz 2012-12-20 18:26:36)

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Re: new 0.1mm profile -- heated bed?

For anyone who is wondering. If you want it to wait until the bed temperature is reached, insert this in the Start g-code.

M190 Sxx

where xx is the temperature.

3 Reply by machenmusik

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Re: new 0.1mm profile -- heated bed?

yep, added this to start gcode

M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; set and wait for bed temp to be reached

it appears that the filament settings in the new profiles set an extruder temperature but NOT a bed temperature, so adding that into start gcode doesn't actually help if you use the filament settings straight from the profile.  I had to pause the print, turn on the bed and wait for it to get close enough to temp, then resume.

4 Reply by nickythegreek

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Re: new 0.1mm profile -- heated bed?

If you are going to add code to wait for your bed to reach temp, be sure that you don't have any code to heat the extruder until afterwards.  Else the extruder could sit heated for way to long and clog up.

5 Reply by machenmusik

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Re: new 0.1mm profile -- heated bed?

so more badness discovered -- temperature in the new profile's printer settings start gcode is hardcoded to 195 :-/

here's what I have in there now... from older settings I was using.

@nickythegreek -- sets extruder temp too low to cause dribble but not off (which is another possibility given how quickly the extruder heats unlike the bed), I haven't generally had a problem with this before.  do you see issues at this temperature?

M104 S100 ; kill extruder temp to stop dribble
G21; set mm units
G28 ;home all axis
G90; set absolute coordinates
G92 E0; reset extruder distance
M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; set and wait for bed temp to be reached
M104 S[first_layer_temperature] ; set extruder temp and start heating
G1 Z5 F300 ;move platform down 5mm
G1 X145 Y145 F3000 ; move to back right corner
M109 S[first_layer_temperature]; wait for extruder temp to be reached
G1 Z[first_layer_height] F200 ;move platform close to nozzle
G1 E7; extruder anchor
G92 E0; reset extrusion distance
G1 F3000; Set feed rate for first move.

6 Reply by nickythegreek (edited by nickythegreek 2012-12-20 21:18:28)

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Re: new 0.1mm profile -- heated bed?

I turned off the anchor and manually set the bed temp right now.  I don't feel comfortable starting prints without being there just to make sure the dribble doesn't screw up the first layer.  I prefer not to use slic3r variables to do temp and just hardcode value in the start gcode.

I normally:
1. Lower bed down and set bed \ to 90
2. Use scraper to clean off a bit of old hairspray on glass bed while it is warming up. I will do 5+ prints without ever really cleaning or changing glass
3. Find something to print, bed is gonna be a moment.
4. Measure filament diameter (I don't do this, but its a good time to if you are still dialing in) and set in slic3r
5. Configure slic3r settings for print and start slice
6. Once bed gets around 88, apply hairspray (I use a little travel size can) to area of glass where print will be
7. Start print, (extruder temp is set to 195 via start g-code)
8. Extruder will always pass 195 and go to 200 then cool back down to ~196 before starting. I use tweezers to clear the dribble during this time
9. Watch first layer, be super happy everything is level and sticking

7 Reply by pcpoirier

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Re: new 0.1mm profile -- heated bed?

I put this in the layer change g code to get the show in the road, but I left it in as a safety.

G91 ; set to incremental  system   
G1 Z5 F300 ;move platform down 5mm
G28 X0 Y0  ; home X axis and y axis
G90; set to absolute system

THe G91 G1 Z5 F300  Lowers the table 5mm so as to not tag the part on the way home.
G28 X0 Y0  ; homes X axis and y axis incase x & y got off and fixes the location error.

G90; set to absolute system   Back like it was.

8 Reply by machenmusik

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Re: new 0.1mm profile -- heated bed?

interestingly enough, I find that printing the anchor in the front left corner (instead of the back right) greatly increases the chances of the anchor either sticking properly, or sticking to the skirt instead of the innards of the print.  it also makes it easy to open the door and just grab whatever is dangling if you're watching.  but there seems to be a LOT of dribble as the extruder gets up to temperature, wonder if it would be better to get it close (say, 180) then retract a bit before the anchor, to prevent the ooze from getting all the way out?

M104 S100 ; kill extruder temp to stop dribble
G21; set mm units
G28 ;home all axis
G90; set absolute coordinates
G92 E0; reset extruder distance
M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; set and wait for bed temp to be reached
M104 S[first_layer_temperature] ; set extruder temp and start heating
G1 Z5 F300 ;move platform down 5mm
G1 X5 Y5 F3000 ; move to front right corner
M109 S[first_layer_temperature]; wait for extruder temp to be reached
G1 Z[first_layer_height] F200 ;move platform close to nozzle
G1 E7; extruder anchor
G92 E0; reset extrusion distance
G1 F3000; Set feed rate for first move.

9 Reply by devilman2075

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Re: new 0.1mm profile -- heated bed?

You shouldn't leave your extruder heated without printing for too long.  Adding that code first is pointless when it takes the extruder a couple minutes to reach full temp from room temperature.  Just because you use their profile doesnt necessarily mean its right.  Its basically a guideline to go from,  it won't work exactly right for every solidoodle out there but it should be close.  My start gcode has all the heat ups within it but normally ill manually start bed temp,  once around 90-92 I just hit print and let it go from there.  Typically I only do this because I'm usually slicing object while bed heats up

10 Reply by nickythegreek (edited by nickythegreek 2012-12-21 04:46:48)

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Re: new 0.1mm profile -- heated bed?

I'm gonna try this front left anchor code. My back right anchor was always dragging.

11 Reply by machenmusik

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Re: new 0.1mm profile -- heated bed?

Fair enough, I'll change the initial extruder temp down to zero

12 Reply by nickythegreek

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Re: new 0.1mm profile -- heated bed?

Loving the front left anchor.

Here is my current start g-code in slic3r:

G21; set mm units
M104 S195; set extruder temp and start heating
G28 ;home all axis
G90; set absolute coordinates
G92 E0; reset extruder distance
G1 Z5 F300 ;move platform down 5mm
G1 X5 Y5 F3000 ; move to front left corner
M109 S195; wait for extruder temp to be reached
G1 Z[first_layer_height] F200 ;move platform close to nozzle
G1 E7; extruder anchor
G92 E0; reset extrusion distance
G1 F3000; Set feed rate for first move.

13 Reply by devilman2075

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Re: new 0.1mm profile -- heated bed?

I don't really see how front left or back right makes a difference unless your bed level has a big low spot in back right, it should work the same regardless where it is located.  I'm somewhat curious to try back right just to see if it gives me problems like others say. My main issue with the anchor not sticking was bed level and z adjustment and its never had a problem since.  Do any of you have an indicator to check bed level?

14 Reply by nickythegreek

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Re: new 0.1mm profile -- heated bed?

I think it is just a bit harder to level the back right then the front left.   The front left is easily adjustable via 1 screw while back right requires 2. My bed warp seems to most prominent in the back right.