n2ri wrote:LMAO! man where ya been? I been needing some of this down home come back to reality type thinking members on here for a couple years.
since you found a way to teach yourself the ins and outs of Skienforge, maybe you can help me figure out why all its ever done for me no matter what stl file used is;
LOL back - you might have me wrong. I only got so deep into it because beyond a certain point parts worked, the 'pain' was manageable...not because I'm some sorta expert. I leave than mantle for the people like Lawsy and Ian...and I'm darn sure my starting settings all came from Ian's blog advice and I never strayed far from that...there were some things that had to be done to run Skeinforge in RH vs. in Pronterface but for the life of me I don't remember them, something about measuring the home point differently or having to create your own homing.gcode that's called in the Home module? If you search Ian's blog (seems to be live still, though nothing new there since the Filawinder stuff) you might find the same settings / video posts I referred to. But FWLIMBW, I'll try on the questions.
n2ri wrote:1. take many times longer than any other slicer to make gcode
This one's easy. Cause it does? (Sorry, couldn't resist...) Gotta be just horribly inefficient coding, but I had the same issue. Something that slices in minutes in slic3r, even back then, could take hours on SF. Guess because it's all 'modules' being called one after the other instead of a coherent executable? Maybe not even all compiled code but interpreted in Python? It does seem to need an open Python window to run (and closing that window not SF or PF will crash it). Got me.
n2ri wrote:2. when I click start print job it homes different than Slic3r and begins seemingly a smidgen below table surface then slowly drags/scrapes across Kaptan tape from usual right rear corner dump area, to center of table at like 5mm speed (about as nerve racking as finger nails on a chalk board).
What was your first layer height set at? (Bottom module). I had 0.5 'additional height over thickness' and altitude 0.06(mm). I never did try printing on the kapton, went straight to the glass bed. And I'm not even using good borosillicate tempered stuff, I'm talking a jagged-cut piece I trimmed down from big-box sheet glass. Yep, I've shattered a piece or two from thermal stress. Oops.
n2ri wrote:3. makes a slow squiggle loop about 3/16" dia mashing nozzle flat so layer is invisible .
4. raises about 5mm for next layer and repeats the squiggle. then repeats this step once more.
5. homes and says job complete.
Um, lost me with these... never seen that behavior. And that's *all* you'd get after slicing?
I was running it thru PF not RH, so things were much different, but I'd have to launch the SF window from PF's "Settings > Slicing" menu, then make all my selections in the various modules, Save (button at bottom of SF), then use the "Skeinforge" button at the bottom of its window to load my STL. After forever, it pops up two ugly graphical windows that weren't very interactive but at least you could see if it sliced sort of (you could see status in the Python window of course as it went). Then close SF, and loaded the file using the Load file button in PF. Maximize and minimize again and it would show the print lines on the bed, hopefully, then I'd ramp up temps and print. Damn after typing that amazed I put up with it all so long. :-)
n2ri wrote: this is how default settings do when installing Solidoodles software pack. I have never been able to decode WTH most the settings tabs mean or what needs corrected. nor is there anybody or anyplace online that can or would help with this. its like the developer abandoned the software years ago. why would Solidoodle or RH even include such a defunct program especially for 1st time 3D printer owners?
Probably cause RH was configured to use either and wasn't theirs to muck with, aside from providing settings files I guess? Anyway, there is help on each module, if outdated...the little question-mark button takes you to an outdated webpage, and a bit of searching found others. I basically only ever used Bottom, Fill, Lash (backlash), Cool, Comb (just a checkmark - no other options), Speed, Stretch, and Temp. RARELY I'd use Scale (which is pretty self-explanatory) or Raft, and I did have Oozebane (LOVE that name) active with some settings but those were probably just out of box.
n2ri wrote: on the other hand Slic3r also comes in the same pack and has a few profile settings to pick from included. all of which will work great out of the box. so its not a printer issue just a Skienforge issue. its like the Skienforge version is for a totally different brand printer. kinda like other slicers that have to be set up for printer being used instead of already setup for Solidoodle. but to do that you need English text instead of German. plus an instruction manual. neither of which Solidoodle will provide. heck they still havnt made the manual for their printers they promised to include a year ago.
Skienforge reminds me of the WWII Bufor portable big gun made in Finland for Allied forces but it had a manual just needed a Finish translator LOL and it was also very finiky to keep calibrated
yeah, I guess I just stuck with what worked because after the inevitable "what have I gotten myself into" first few months, I didn't want to re-fix what wasn't quite broke. Only recently realized I was also seeing way better prints from some of the others I got into buying their own machines (various flavors, some SD some not) at work.
Anyways, I can try to help w/ specifics - maybe spit out my settings somehow if you really wanted to give SF a go? - but Ian's blog is without doubt the place to start. He da man.
[Late Edit: Found the post on Ian's blog, if it helps...it's pretty old but what you're describing sounds like a major config error of some sort, so maybe it points you in the right direction: http://solidoodletips.wordpress.com/201 … keinforge/ ]