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Topic: Slic3r is not working out

It seems like the biggest draw back for me so far is not having a raft.
Even with everything at perfect temperatures my extrusion drags or doesn't stick to me kapton tape. I figured it is a down grade to go from the kapton to painters tape. I also have gaffing tape and was wondering if that would work.

By layer two something has a bump and it ruins the whole part.

Any suggestions?

Should I stick with Pronterface? I'd like 0.1mm.

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Re: Slic3r is not working out

If you can't get slicer working correctly then id assume you have plenty of calibration to do before you could even consider  .1 prints.

Don't quote me here because I could be wrong.  I think the main difference causing issues from pronterface/skeinforge to repetier/slicer is first layer height.  When I made the switch I was pretty dialed in for pronterface, had a good first layer height,  everything stuck well. When I switched it went from great first layer height to drastically to high . I think that pronterface/skeinforge runs first layer height at z0 as opposed to slicer as .3 or whatever you have set.

Id calibrate everything and go from there

3 (edited by nickythegreek 2012-12-18 01:59:31)

Re: Slic3r is not working out

Be sure to clean your kapton with Iso and I think it is best to do that while the bed is cool and print with your bed at 100.

I had a lot of sticking issues and went to the glass bed + hairspray (the whole switch will cost you less then $10) and have had no issues since.

Slic3r can do brims, which I like more than rafts because they are super easy to remove. Try a 2mm brim your prints.

Finally, be sure to level your bed. Below is the Official Solidoodle video, their technique worked perfect for me.

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Re: Slic3r is not working out

Try raising your bed 1/6th-1/4 turn of the screw. Also, don't print till you hit at least 90 on the bed. I print on glass treated with PVA glue and doing that means it sticks every time, regardless of slicer