Odd circle test results (Page 12 of 24)

Again, I know it's off-topic, but the steps / mm calcs depend on the tooth pitch and the tooth count per pulley...

http://prusaprinters.org/calculator/

I'm running 88 on my SD2 which has the nylon MXL 2.032 pitch / 18 tooth) pulleys, and I run 80 on my Ord Bot which has the aluminum GT2 (2.0mm pitch / 20 tooth) pulleys.

I might try 87.49 on the SD2...

And I see where MXLs can come in either material...my bad.

I got fed up and disassembled the X carriage.
The left side had little glue/epoxy that didn't hold it at all.

top

bottom

left side

right side

Again, the left side wasn't glued, so it just came off.

this

this is how much the rods were sticking out:

I think this kind of made the Y rods bend a little and made calibrating such a pain.
So the thing is I'm not sure how to glue it, if the rods should be sticking out as much, or not at all. And what glue to use. I think I'll just contact Solidoodle about this and get a replacement.
I don't even know if this will solve my circlular problem.

.... Why is Jaques banned?

He might've been one step away from solving this for all of us

Now I will have to duplicate all of his effort when I get time.

Jaques if you see this please email me at ((removed, got an email)) we'll discuss the issue between ourselves.

I know I couldn't get enough leverage with the ball tipped driver, but after taking the motor completely off so I'd have room, a "normal" hex key worked when I put the short side in the set screw and used the long side for leverage (much longer lever than the tiny handle on the ball driver :-).

No posts for a while so I figured I'd share where I'm at. Next step is to hacksaw my new rods to size.

The rods can jiggle around in the carriage but they don't come out. Gonna dunk this carriage in acetone to recover the rods for spares. And I'll get 2 more good LM8UUs so that's nice.

Pretty sure I ruined at least the right Y rod doing this. The collar would only go so far on the rod, making removal impossible, so I had to sand that section of the rod a bit to get the collar off. The rods were also significantly burred at the ends so I had to sand them to even get them out of the case.

Edit: knocked the rods off with a hammer. Surprisingly easy. The carriages weren't printed all that solid. Saves time in mass 3d printing I guess but makes them pretty weak.

The shiny part is left over glue, by the way. Photo makes it look metallic.

Is your x carriage left piece also not glued properly and you can also twist the carriage like the other users? If yes, then that's probably the issue I think.

what about the closed loop belts on SD4? has that been tested to see if its the issue also?

Hmm I hadn't thought about the belt tensioners and idler pulleys in the front. Can you take a picture of how yours can get at an angle?

Picture is worth a thousand words

You sure the belt just isn't too tight? Very odd that yours do that. Mine seem stable.

Looks like I need to print the lawsey carriage parts. I did a couple pieces but they were early prints need to recheck the quality .
I pulled the left side cover today and the back x rod is sticking out and I can see where it was dragging on the case also the x carriage block is cracked /delaminating. still need to get the y idlers straightened out as well. I did expect this to be a learning experience. I guess I was naive and foolish to think I could run this for a while and not have to rebuild it with the first few months.
Tin

Well hearing it and noticing it two different things. This is my first and only 3d printer. I have seen 3d printers before. mostly not running the only other ones I have actually seen printing were ulitimakers they were dead quite at least in a room full of people.
I dug out these spares but need to print the extuder mount.  Time to try out the CF-XT .
I may have been running a tad hot  need to get some fans and print some ducts as well.
But I think these will hold together better than the factory parts.