Odd circle test results (Page 7 of 24)

If you post an updated STL I'll fix it in the Thingiverse post.

So I've just now caught up with this thread.  That video shows clearly the twisting motion that should not exist.  And yes ABS will eventually break down and wear but it'll be fine for a test.   Also if the rods are that loose in the right carriage you may be able to simply remove it and epoxy the rods back in.  Even a test part that takes the twist out isn't going to pevent the force of the x-carriage belt from pushing and pulling those rods in and out.  The solution of tightening the blocks (which at one point SD claimed were Teflon) is not going to fix the fact that your carriage is floating around.
A third block via drilling a hole would also work as a test.  Those rods are supposed to fit tight and be glued in.  If that side is loose and can twist than so can the other side.  This also would clearly explain Cipher0's belt length issues from another post.  The design is pretty much the same for the SD2&3 but the rods were glued in and couldn't twist.
It's unfortunate that SD doesn't post the .stl files for all parts.  I could redesign this in a few minutes and fix the problem.

Why doesn't Solidoodle have two nuts and bolts on the bottom of the carriage piece to tighten the rods in place (like the pulleys are tightened to the back rod?)

So let me think about this: the problem is that for the few of us Solidoodle has just decided to use less glue?

There's a nut on the other side. The 3d printed part has a hexagonal inset where the nut goes, but it wears of easily, turns into circular and the nut rotates freely instead of being secured. Use something sharp like the forceps to keep the nut in place while you rotate the bolt from the other side (not easiest thing to do alone).

Hell at this point who knows what SD was thinking.  It'd be one thing if users like myself hadn't done most of the work for them.  At least they could try and not mess up the implementation so badly.

For the most part.  Like I said it's similar to the SD2&3 carriage which also only had 2 blocks and they worked.

Pull the x-rods out apply some epoxy and shove em back in.  Then redo the belts and blocks properly.

I will do this when i get home tonight. it will be around 8 or 9pm EST.

I feel bad now because I was one of the many who encouraged you to do this. You may have to buy a new belt when the carriage is positioned correctly.

So if I loosen the x and y belts, the rod should theoretically be able to slide through the right Y carriage piece? Not home so can't check. Just trying to ensure I understand ....

Ah quality control. Gotta love it (or lack thereof). I'll try this tonight when I get time.

always wondered why SD used hose clams, bubble gum etc to mount all the rods when they could have either drilled holes at correct places to put roll pins in, or make grove around them for E-clips to keep them on place in frame instead. but that would look too profesional I guess like they knew what they where doing. ;^P

oooh thats gonna reflect poorly on SD assembly/quality control Ward lol