Re: Odd circle test results
That's what I meant, the Solidoodle design.
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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Solidoodle Discussion → Odd circle test results
That's what I meant, the Solidoodle design.
Solidoodle Tech Support is quick!
Hi Nbourg8:
The piece that your are describing, located on the right side of the Y carriage can be adjusted, if you believe this is what is causing the issue. Here is how to do so. That piece has to screws, the one on the bottom is the one you want to adjust. Loosen that screw just a little which will allow you to push that screw up. You want to hold that screw up while tightening so that it fits snugly on the rod. After tightening, grab that piece and try shaking it, it shouldn't shake if snugly fit to rod. This is why you may be having some movement on Y carriage, causing imperfect circles. Please try this, and update me on situation, so that I may provide further support if needed.
So did it work? Works for none of us.
So did it work? Works for none of us.
I'm at work and can't try it. Not for another 10 hours probably. I suspect that the nature of machine design, moment arms and leverage, this wouldn't work but I'll definitely give it a try when I get home.
I have noticed that in all the belt tensioning videos, when adjusting the y-axis, we completely forget about the x-axis tension and mine has become incredibly lose. I'll have to tension the x-axis back up somehow. Lord this is a big project.
Yup. Mine becomes loose as well. Wardjr and I suspect this is due to the twisting motion on the rods. Both the X belt screw and the Teflon block screws loosen. After printing that lawsy carriage I had to tighten up everything. It was a long print, about 6 hours in total for all parts. Any longer and the Teflon blocks might've fallen out ![]()
Sounds like you have some mech engineering background
is that correct?
And yeah 3d printing is pretty finicky. But you sound like you're up to it! It's worth it when people point at your prints and say "wow, you made that?" Or when people pay you ... I've made some money even without perfect circles.
I'm a Controls Engineer by trade and Electrical Engineer by Degree. Naturally, to make us well rounded, I had to take Dynamics and Statics in college so I know the basics. Designing my own tennis ball machine has been a learning curve too with respect to machine dynamics.
First image is a wooden prototype (red is 3d printed)
Second image is version 2 (red is 3d printed)
As you can see, I have a project waiting for these circles to work properly. I've already done all the electrical, just waiting on the structural.
Sweet stuff! I also have projects awaiting perfect circles. Trying to build a CNC type machine that will give blind folks a tactile sense of a map using a roller ball pen.
But, can't print a good gear without perfect circles! ![]()
I've tried Solidoodles suggestion of moving the bottom teflon up and retightening. It prevents the carriage part from moving up and down, but does not get rid of rotation (along the x axis when looking from front)
The only thing that will is a third teflon block or a linear bearing, or some sort of printed part to emulate a teflon block. By the way, even though the lithium grease destroys ABS pretty quickly, I found that I could get the parts I tested to slide fine, so don't worry about causing binding if that's your reason for not trying to print something to test it out. You can't break anything
just be gentle with the rods is all. don't scuff them or you'll probably be buying new ones lol
I've tried Solidoodles suggestion of moving the bottom teflon up and retightening. It prevents the carriage part from moving up and down, but does not get rid of rotation (along the x axis when looking from front)
Thank you for testing this. I've attached a drawing as to what I believe you're seeing.
Think you forgot to attach ![]()
Think you forgot to attach
Woops!
If thats the carriage from the side, then yes. Thats what I mean and yes, more surface area (for example third teflon) will get rid of it.
And yes jagowilson, thats the reason I was hesitant. Ok then.
BTW, you sure its not nylon?
Like I said just be gentle with the rods and you'll be fine. If you scuff them or dent them you'll have to replace the right rod which would suck. Your part won't be touching though for this to occur anyway.
And it may be nylon. But it looks/feels like PTFE to me.
tightening the 'squeeze' on the blocks will just add drag on right side causing other issues. and Solidoodle dont care about fixing anything on printers they sold/discontinued.
this design is the same since SD2 but when they stretched the same thin frame and rods out for 8x8 since SD3 (which is what SD uses to print those parts BTW) the weakness of design was multiplied. if they would have done the linear bearings instead of friction blocks and bushings dragging, these kind of issues likely never would have been noticed. but hey look who we are talking about. the same folks that brought you "new upgraded' same ol POS hotends from the NOS SD2 parts shelf, for their proud albeit late new arrivals that can only print ABS/PLA in 2 colors. and by all pics and videos only flat 2D prints it seems.
LMAO did ya see the 12x12 flat pumpkin that likely took hours to make yet Dollar tree sells nicer 3D ones for less than cost of filament. yeah thats what Im waiting 4 months and paying $1500 for so I can stick it to dollar tree by next Halloween.
I got my SD4 about 2 months ago. When i got it i did not know anything about 3d printing. I have ordered prints before, but never owned a printer or printed anything myself.
When i got it i set it up and then did a test print. It was terrible. I had drift on the x and y axis and circles were ovals. At first i was going to send it back. Then after doing some research, i found out several calibrations that needed to be done.
I found a video tutorial on the Solidoodle website that showed how to calibrate the entire system. I leveled the head bed, and adjusted the X and Y axis motors and adjusted the tension on the belts. After doing this for about a good 3 hours of fine tuning, my prints were where they should be. My circles were circles and i had no more drift on the X or Y axis.
the only thing i wish i had done was to put loctite on the set screws after i did this. Because now my circles are starting to turn into ovals again. I printed a nickel test yesterday and the circle was off.
We have done every possible calibration ourselves, and spent far more than 3 hours on this.
Our circles are not ovals. The artifact is different.
I've attached a sample STL file which takes few seconds to print.
Please print it and post a top down photo of the result like we have.
Eagerly waiting for your results. So far everyone owning a SD4 who I've given this STL to print have noticed this problem.
Jaques beat me to it. Please make the picture as clear as possible. Take several shots, and maintain the orientation it was printed in. Thanks.
If we notice the deviation we are talking about, fear not; we're working on it.
What's the count up to so far on people with this issue? Me, jaques, nburg8, cipher0, anyone else?
If we notice the deviation we are talking about, fear not; we're working on it
and if you won't, at least we'll know this isn't a problem with every Solidoodle 4 and with your help we can figure out what the problem is for us by comparing your Solidoodle 4 with ours (design changes, calibration differences, software, etc.)
i'm thinking about posting on the solidoodle fb page and seeing if we can get some more users to do this print and post pictures. at least that way a) we can know more about it and b) we can get solidoodle's attention.
Go ahead, its public domain stl.
guess i should make a thingiverse profile
solidoodle just deletes such posts now. on their FB page
Posted. If they delete it then that'd be awwwwful strange.
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