1 Topic by a3393341 (edited by a3393341 2014-10-03 08:33:34)

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Topic: "E3D hotend", do I really need it?

So I read articles suggesting to replace the Solidoodle hotend with the "E3D" hotend.
I have a SD4, not SD3. Does this apply to me as well? Is the extruder head still poor enough to consider change?
And what are the benefits for switching to it?
Ive read about it on their site and number of other places.
It says it can allow to print filaments made up of materials that need higher melting temperature. Okay. But besides polycarbonate, the the others they mentioned in their videos like the wood+abs mix and flexibles, nylon, etc., can't my hotend work with those already?

2 Reply by n2ri

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Re: "E3D hotend", do I really need it?

nope, we are still waiting for confirmation if the 3 new models can. need full metal hot end not the ones that can melt out above 240c

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

3 Reply by AZERATE

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Re: "E3D hotend", do I really need it?

Personally, yes. I highly recommend it. The selling point for me to buy mine wasn't for the potential of printing exotic materials, but for reliability. My stock hotend clogged nearly 10 times in the last 7 days before I upgraded, and I have only had ONE clog on the E3D (due to user error).
I was forced to make the change with only 3 months of use on the stock, and I am now on 9 months with the E3D.

n2ri is correct. Your stock hotend will melt attempting to print materials like Nylon.

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

4 Reply by a3393341

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Re: "E3D hotend", do I really need it?

AZERATE wrote:

Personally, yes. I highly recommend it. The selling point for me to buy mine wasn't for the potential of printing exotic materials, but for reliability. My stock hotend clogged nearly 10 times in the last 7 days before I upgraded, and I have only had ONE clog on the E3D (due to user error).
I was forced to make the change with only 3 months of use on the stock, and I am now on 9 months with the E3D.

Thank you.
But according to your signature, you had a SD2. The SD4 has a new extruder. I don't think I'm noticing any clogging for two weeks. Do you know anything about these extruders?

n2ri is correct. Your stock hotend will melt attempting to print materials like Nylon.

I should have checked before posting that.
But the other "exotic" materials they mention in the video, like ninjaflex and laywood, arent they just abs mixed with some chemical and wood powder respectively? Unless there's something else which makes these filaments/materials unprintable with the stock printer and which I'd like to know what it is, I dont understand why the max temp of the stock extruderisnt enough.

5 Reply by AZERATE

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Re: "E3D hotend", do I really need it?

Bookmaker posted his results converting his extruder to fit the E3D v6 http://www.soliforum.com/topic/6355/upg … on/page/2/ The E3D is a different size than the PEEK, so you will either have to machine the metal extruder for a good fit, or print up a new extruder.

I believe Laywoo actually is blended with PLA, but I haven't had enough Red Bull yet to be certain wink But filaments like Laywoo actually require a larger nozzle due to expansion once it passes the heating block.

The stock hotend for the SD4 is the exact same as the 3 and 4. The only difference is the extruder body being metal on the 4, whereas users like myself suffered the living nightmare that was the acrylic extruder.

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

6 Reply by a3393341

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Re: "E3D hotend", do I really need it?

Thanks for the info.

And I know what you mean, Ive seen a video of disassembling an acrylic solidoodle extruder. What were they thinking?

7 Reply by Hazer

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Re: "E3D hotend", do I really need it?

New extruder, same hotend.

I have had my stock hotend for 15 months. I have had one clog from using a really cheap roll of PLA. So, my fault not the hotend.

A very good point here, the E3D does not fit the new metal extruder, and printing a substitute IMO is a waste.

My advice: Give your stock hotend some time before upgrading. Not everyone had the same problems. If your hotend does not clog, then you dont need to go through the hastle of replacing the entire extruder. Because in order not to go backwards, you are more likely to spend $130 more than the E3D getting the Bulldog.

Actually, if it were me, I would buy the hexagon hotend instead. It has the correct mounting groove for your stock extruder.

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