1 (edited by Nerfz 2014-09-18 13:07:15)

Topic: Solidoodle 4 Newbie

So just bought my first printer and it is coming in the mail today!
I have been reading reading and reading everything I could fine to try to educate myself..
So as far as software and prints I am pretty sure of what I need to do.. But I had a couple more of generic questions maybe some of you using the Solidoodle 4 can help..

#1 Is there anything out of the box I need to watch out for? Was there anything wrong with yours when you revived it?
#2 What is the best printing heat bed temp combo for Solidoodle ABS? Also have any of you tried Octave? If so what temps for that as well?
#3 How well does it work with PLA? I have only heard bad stuff...

Thanks guys!

SD4, Glass bed,(Soon to have) E3D v6, MK5 extruder

2

Re: Solidoodle 4 Newbie

Since I have an SD3 I suppose you don't want the answers from me wink
Don't limit yourself that way as they are all very similar.  The SD4 is an SD3 with a cover on it and since I have a cover on mine I think I may be qualified to answer some of your questions.
1. Yes there are plenty of things to look for.  Anything obviously broken of course is a bad thing and for that you'd be dealing primarily with SD support.  Beyond that plan on doing all calibrations that are listed in the WIKI.
2. Temps for ABS will require a bit of testing start at 205 and work your way up.
The SD nozzles don't read that accurately so just shoot for a nice open air extrusion.
If it's too cold it won't flow properly and your machine really won't let you run it too hot which can cause clogs.  Don't leave the nozzle on for any period of time without extruding as it will clog.
Bed temp for ABS hotter is going to be better so 100-110.  I run mine at 108 and make sure your bed is level and use your Z height adjustment screw to achieve a good squish on that first layer.
3. Plenty of users are printing with PLA but you'll need to add a fan.  ABS is easy and for most users has become our goto filament.  Octave is decent for the price and temps are the same you'll just have to play with them for each different roll of filament you use.
I am not a huge fan of SD filament.
Hope that helps answer some of your questions.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

3

Re: Solidoodle 4 Newbie

Thanks for the info!

SD4, Glass bed,(Soon to have) E3D v6, MK5 extruder

4

Re: Solidoodle 4 Newbie

1) give it a very thorough visual inspection . Things may come loose in shipping I had a missing screw on the x end stop/ limit switch.  so check the limit switches . I have seen where guys have had problems with the rod that adjuststs the z axis so check that. And I found from experience that the x travel rods can twist so throw a level on each end. and  check belt tensions.
2 covered well by WardJ

3) IMHO PLA is nothing to be scared of. It is the only thing I have printed with with no added fan. I expect a fan would make things easier. I have yet to use  SD filament.  Have gotten decent  results from the cheap filament from micro center.


Personalty I stay away from the ABS due to health concerns.  But abs in a well ventilated area should not be a problem for most people.

I purchased my SD used so no worries about warranty  issues of using other material.
tin

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

5

Re: Solidoodle 4 Newbie

So I got it in and the Y rods were messed up and I fixed(2 hours later)
Now I printed a cube and no matter what I print I am getting some lift on the left side(after it prints about 3 passes it start to lift/warp)...
I know it is calibrated I re did it like 10 times trying different heights..
Should I just use some hair spray to make it stick??

SD4, Glass bed,(Soon to have) E3D v6, MK5 extruder

6

Re: Solidoodle 4 Newbie

Elmer's Purple Glue Stick works great...

SD2 - Stock - Enclosure - Heated Bed - Glass Plate - Auto Fire Extinguisher
Ord Bot Hadron - RAMPS 1.4 - Bulldog XL - E3D v6 - 10" x 10" PCB Heated Build w/SSR - Glass Plate
Thanks for All of Your Help!

7 (edited by Nerfz 2014-09-19 12:56:50)

Re: Solidoodle 4 Newbie

Just put the glue directly on the bed?
Also am I better off adding a piece of glass?
And if so do I just lay it on the the bed on top of the tape that came on it?

SD4, Glass bed,(Soon to have) E3D v6, MK5 extruder

8

Re: Solidoodle 4 Newbie

Glass is great because the aluminum beds are usually warped or warp from the heat.  Spray the bottom of your glass and it will stick directly to the Kapton after about 3 heat/cool cycles.  Then a nice light coat of hairspray on the top is all you should need.  Glue stick works well but it's no secret around here that I am not a fan.  It sticks a little to well and involves some cleanup.
Don't forget to adjust your z-height and re-level your bed after you add the glass.
A little more squish will also help with the lifting.
Good luck

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

9

Re: Solidoodle 4 Newbie

Cool thanks a lot!

SD4, Glass bed,(Soon to have) E3D v6, MK5 extruder

10

Re: Solidoodle 4 Newbie

ABS is a much better overall plastic than PLA, especially for functional parts with any kind of stress. Also PLA parts will become unstable in high heat environments, its the nature of the material.