1 (edited by timothyfrost 2014-08-06 01:26:05)

Topic: WHAT DO YOU SUPPOSE IS CAUSING THIS? (UPDATED WITH PIC)

what do you think is causing these layers to to extend out further than the lower ones? I'm slicing it with slic3r 1.2, then importing it into hacked xyzware. This problem didn't occur when I used the unmodded xyzware, but I still had that curling upwards of the layers on the left side. thats why i tried slic3r

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2

Re: WHAT DO YOU SUPPOSE IS CAUSING THIS? (UPDATED WITH PIC)

I've been having problems with this too. I suspect that there are some alignment issues involved.

One thing that makes me nervous is that when I run the Calibrate function to check the bed leveling, I can get different values without having made any changes or done any printing.

I suspect that this leveling issue causes the print head to impact the print which in turn causes the belt to slip which results in layers being misaligned. See my post on printing problems to see some examples of what can happen.

I've also experienced this when printing at .1 more often than not. I suspect that while the bed's 1, 2, and 3 measure points may be considered leveled if they are >20 units off from one another, such a difference will result in printing problems at high resolutions or with complex objects.

BTW, does anyone know exactly what values these +xxx, +yyy, +zzz numbers actually mean? Are they millimeters, microns, percentages of mm?

3 (edited by Weekend Avenger 2014-08-08 17:14:10)

Re: WHAT DO YOU SUPPOSE IS CAUSING THIS? (UPDATED WITH PIC)

The numbers have to be something smaller than a millimeter, since it goes up to 999 and even a small turn of the knob will set the number off by 20 or so.

As to it measuring the same, part of the problem is heat and the other is the springs the bed is on. Do a calibration, changed nothing but push the bed enough on each side that the springs let it move and then do it again. It won't be exactly the same the second time. If just let it heat and cool and try it twice they will change a bit.

But it's not just alignment that causes bizarre things to happen on a print. Take a look at the pic I'm linking. This warpage on a large object was cause purely by too much bed heat in combination with sparse infill. The print head running in high rez slow mode made it even worse and burned a spot. Because this part is mechanical it's not even ruined since the first 20mm or so is just part of the case, but it demonstrates warp that wasn't caused by alignment. In the case of my print issue, it was not realizing that my "third party" filament simply couldn't withstand 100C bed and 230C print head.

http://ppl.ug/Tshb38bau3U/ http://ppl.ug/SVFoWuqZYvI/ <-- Once Pogoplug loads the image, if you click the image it shows in a large size. Sorry, but I don't have a repectable web host available.

4 (edited by Jaeg 2014-08-14 13:43:03)

Re: WHAT DO YOU SUPPOSE IS CAUSING THIS? (UPDATED WITH PIC)

I stopped using the bed leveling function.  I used someone elses suggestion in one of these posts which is start a demo print and wait for it to start printing, then power off the printer.  This will have the printer at the current height that it prints at.  I then go from corner to corner with a .2mm feeler guage and get it level that way.

If you have not tried it yet I would highly recommend switching to ExcelFil filament, the quality difference I have seen are night and day. 

I am attaching a pic of the same part, one printed with  an un-named filament I got off Ebay, and the other is ExcelFil, no other settings were changed, only the filament.  I did not realize how much difference the filament quality is.

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5

Re: WHAT DO YOU SUPPOSE IS CAUSING THIS? (UPDATED WITH PIC)

The vase looks like the Z isn't moving some times, and some layers are getting printed in the same space as previous layers.   When I've had that happen on the SD, it was because the driver was getting overheated and happened to be in thermal shutdown when the Z move came along.  Does in any of that stuff show up in a gcode preview?

6 (edited by curt 2014-08-23 23:15:33)

Re: WHAT DO YOU SUPPOSE IS CAUSING THIS? (UPDATED WITH PIC)

Good subject for my question as well. Hope you don't mind me butting in here... I have a Model of a Rhino I got off thingiverse. I have now tried printing it 3 times and it keeps blowing up. the other night in my visit with tech support at xyz they had me send them the file. this morning the sent me pictures of it looking all nice and pretty then told me the settings they used to make it... I followed them to the letter and it blew up again. I am including 4 pictures here 2 of their rhino, 2 of my disaster.. it is my hope someone here might have a clue whats going wrong. Yes I did calibrate the table it was almost perfect at start. I cleaned nozzle also I cleaned the extruder. everything was working fine at the start of this model. It's didn't start going bad until about an hour and a half in... these pics are at 2 hours in when I stopped the print.

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7 (edited by n2ri 2014-08-24 02:24:45)

Re: WHAT DO YOU SUPPOSE IS CAUSING THIS? (UPDATED WITH PIC)

curt wrote:

Good subject for my question as well. Hope you don't mind me butting in here... I have a Model of a Rhino I got off thingiverse. I have now tried printing it 3 times and it keeps blowing up. the other night in my visit with tech support at xyz they had me send them the file. this morning the sent me pictures of it looking all nice and pretty then told me the settings they used to make it... I followed them to the letter and it blew up again. I am including 4 pictures here 2 of their rhino, 2 of my disaster.. it is my hope someone here might have a clue whats going wrong. Yes I did calibrate the table it was almost perfect at start. I cleaned nozzle also I cleaned the extruder. everything was working fine at the start of this model. It's didn't start going bad until about an hour and a half in... these pics are at 2 hours in when I stopped the print.

your support material is not working right, try dif pattern or spacing on support also may have speed/feed flow set wrong causing thin extrusion. also may have damp or bad filament not feeding hot head right see if its jamming and getting chewed by extruder gear due to out of size bumps in filament.

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

8 (edited by curt 2014-08-24 07:23:22)

Re: WHAT DO YOU SUPPOSE IS CAUSING THIS? (UPDATED WITH PIC)

Just tried an experiment... not sure which part did the most good, but one of the adjustments did... opinions please... adjustment one changed the support from fine to medium... second thing I changed, thinking about those ice-cream cone caps on fine points and the help a fan would be, I printed this version with the front door of the machine wide open to let excess heat out... room feels 20 degrees warmer than printing with door closed so heat is escaping, but the print is looking crisp for once. any clue which helped more?

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9

Re: WHAT DO YOU SUPPOSE IS CAUSING THIS? (UPDATED WITH PIC)

I dont have fan yet either and also had inclosed SD2 opened door and blew fan inside on some prints/bridges now have cover off when printing. still want cooling fah added though

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

10 (edited by curt 2014-08-25 19:24:14)

Re: WHAT DO YOU SUPPOSE IS CAUSING THIS? (UPDATED WITH PIC)

The fan probably is a good Idea... I just tried another make shift experiment in instant cooling... turned out pretty good. I was printing the top of the empire state building, the zeppelin tower and antenna get to be pretty fine detail, the type that doesn't cool down fast enough and ends up as Ice Cream cones... Opened door for most of the mast, but for the really fine stuff I used my compressed air canister and blew short bursts of air on it anytime it appeared to be softening up... not a perfect solution but I got the antenna towers to come out using it, thats pretty good in my book!