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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Solidoodle Discussion → long prints lifting still....
I'm using extreme hold hair spray to hold down my prints.
They are still lifting enough to be discurouging. * spelling*.
Any ideas. I run an sd3 heated bed with an ed3.
Bed is level
Nozzle tip is as close as it can be without it not being right.
* Are you using glass on your bed?
* What temp are you running? Try up to 110C.
* Try a different brand of hairspray - look for the word 'copolymer' on the ingredients list, and see if you can find one that has a different type to your current spray
* Try elmer's purple glue stick instead of spray
* Get your mod hat on and organise to heat & temp control your enclosure (this treats the cause rather than the symptoms!)
So get the enclosure to heat up?
I mean the enclosed area.
ABS yes?
If so... One might find it easier to simply switch to PLA if one can't be stuffed creating an enclosure.
Yup, that's the idea. It's a bit of an effort, but if you're game aim for temps between 40 and 60C, however you want to go about it. Less than 40 and you'll still get appreciable warping, and more than 60 and your motors and plastic parts will have a bad time. You might have luck with judicious use of a hairdryer; just be careful to monitor the temp as you go.
It's still a bit of a WIP, but my solution was a 250W AC plate heater, a heatsink, a 50mm 12V centrifugal blower, and an eBay PID controller / SSD / thermocouple set. I set the output temp of the thing to 50C, and sit it in the bottom of the case. Resulting chamber temp with my enclosure and current ambients (12-15C) is just on 40C (monitored by multimeter), and this seems to have a significant effect on warping - I can now manage much larger prints then I ever used to, and when the bed cools down things still pop off nicely.
I'm using extreme hold hair spray to hold down my prints.
They are still lifting enough to be discurouging. * spelling*.Any ideas. I run an sd3 heated bed with an ed3.
Bed is level
Nozzle tip is as close as it can be without it not being right.
Check out a product called "BuildTak". I've been using this alone, and it works great, always sticks, easy to remove prints, and no I don't work for them, just happy with this printing surface.......I have it stuck to a 8" mirror, and its very, very smooth, and level. Been printing for almost 2 years now using hair spray, slurry, kapton, masking tape. No more.. Its the best surface solution I have come across.
Yea i spent a long time trying to figure out how to get ABS to stick and so far cleaning the kapton tape with a magic eraser then wet a rag with acetone and wipe down the kapton again, then give it time to dry and air out, while its still cool before you heat it up for a print rub disappearing purple elmers glue stick, lightly across the kapton and then run your print. use a very light amount of the purple glue you should not be able to see purple it should just make it hazy or opaque.
To remove curling on large parts requires a few things:
-Enclosure, even if its cardboard for just that job.
-Glass, because the bed heater is not uniform, so heating up a piece of glass evens out the temperature across the board.
-Brim helps hold it down long enough to cool without curling
-optional: add voids to the object before creating your STL near the edges so the plastic is not pulling on the edges when it cools.
To remove curling on large parts requires a few things:
-Enclosure, even if its cardboard for just that job.
-Glass, because the bed heater is not uniform, so heating up a piece of glass evens out the temperature across the board.
-Brim helps hold it down long enough to cool without curling
-optional: add voids to the object before creating your STL near the edges so the plastic is not pulling on the edges when it cools.
+1
And the BuildTak surface works wonders. However, be careful pulling prints off. Do not use a razor scraper or you WILL tear, even though BuildTak tears are easier to manage compared to that of Kapton.
I have no idea what is going on with my printer, im using Kisslicer, when I make the cylinders, the infill doesn't connect to the outer edge edge, and with RH my nozel doesn't spit out enough material and just dots around, this is at 100 mic resolution.
and of course is lifting,
im going to fix the lifting issue,
I just don't know why the other is happening.
pictures?
pictures?
+1 but I'll guess... partial clog?
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