Ord bot Hadron build - RepRapDiscount kit (Page 2 of 4)

Nothing better than spending money to help with that learning curve

Serin,
Many thanks again...

Now just to amass some cash for the purchase...maybe in next Month's budget!

Appreciate the help!

Still thinking of the RUMBA...but this seems like a pretty good deal:

http://makergeeks.com/mabrboxkit.html

Change the option to the "Ready to Print" version and scroll down to the BOM.  Seems to be a good price for all that even though it is a RAMPS...

EDIT:
BTW, the Ord Bot Hadron is an 8" x 8" build platform, correct?  Have not seen that spec on their page or here.  If so, do you think with extended makerslide and base extrusions it can accommodate a 10" x 10"?  Would the center base Makerslide rail be rigid enough to hold the build plate steady?

Just wondering...

Sorry, I'm confused (not unusual)...

The kit I referenced in the link is only for the electronics package at MakerGeeks, not MakerGear...it's electronics only. Why would Bart get a commission on that?

Also, the raw Makerslide components I found is at Inventables, where not only does Bart get a commission, but he is their Director of Product Development...

https://www.inventables.com/about

From Inventables:
"This product is part of an open source project started by Bart Dring. Inventables always works with and supports the original creators of open source designs when we sell their creations. In this case Bart earns a portion of each sale for each unit sold. This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License."

Best I can calculate, you can put together a kit using Inventables components for a 10 x 10 build area, sans electronics, some custom plates, extruder/hot end and heated build plate, for about $350 including stepper motors...

Did you have the right print temp?XLs have a bucket load of torque... So if you print too lower z height (nozzle on the bed), too low a temp, or kinked filament, you can end up there.

Just pop the front plate, remove and try again.

PLA will soften easily and kink at too high a temp due to radiated heat... Its a non issue with ABS due to its much higher glass trans temp...

So I'd say it was just over the threshold and kinked... Or it was an existing kink due to roll start (where diameter and quality issues usually present)

Ah, didn't know that.
Either way it managed a 5 hour print without buggering up so it seems 180 is a safe number.
I'd tried lowering it to around 175 a few days back, evidently it didn't much like that either.
Experimenting has been quite fun! And extremely educative.

This is a crowd funding thing that I'm running: http://www.gofundme.com/bvi140 It's for pretty selfish reasons

Hmm! It was curiously enough not a problem I ever experienced with the solidoodle. But then it didn't have any where near the torque of the XL.

This is a crowd funding thing that I'm running: http://www.gofundme.com/bvi140 It's for pretty selfish reasons

Meh... I'm probably up to about 20kgs through my 3 XLs and personally have had it happen twice... Both times as result of user error: really bad zoffset (where I managed to actually score the bed plate I was testing at the time), and stupidity over some disabled cold extrusion commands (don't ask).

If its happening that often Bob, I'd love to know how you manage it. You are running with the brass insert that is supplied to restrict the output holes diameter right? Its definitely not an issue I've heard of happening enough to warrant a 'fix' across the 2 dozen odd I know of here in Oz.. But who knows, maybe you have a bad unit... Chat to Elvira at RRD as I'm sure she would be able to confirm one way or the other..

If you get a clogged nozzle, it will spit filament out the side.  The bulldog doesn't seem to skip or dig the filament, it feeds it no matter what.  I was running some ABS I made on the filastruder without using the melt filter, which I knew was chancy.  It clogged and I ended up with an ABS slinky hanging off the extruder.  It also did that with all my attempts at printing Ninjaflex, even when I put PTFE guides inside the extruder.  If you get buckled filament, the problem is most likely at the nozzle in my experience.

It might still work.  I think the Ninjaflex might have been unable to push out the bit of PLA that was left over, because I was doing everything right on the extruder end.  I tried pushing it by hand and couldn't get it to come out the nozzle, so next time I take the time to try, I will scrub the nozzle out with a guitar string or something.

Update time:

Decided to print something rather large to test out the sturdiness of the printer.

Twas going very well until I worked out that by changing the 'combine infill' from 1 to 3 I could almost cut print time in half.
Wasn't something I'd fiddled with on the SD2 so I had no idea it was what was slowing the prints down.
So that's great, what isn't so great is that I think I need to crank up something to compensate for the increased speed.
The steps perhaps? Can't quite remember...

Anyway, pictures:

And here's one I googled earlier:
Hoping to be able to shove some superbright LED's in there to create the light effects if those sections are left unpainted.

This is a crowd funding thing that I'm running: http://www.gofundme.com/bvi140 It's for pretty selfish reasons