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Topic: Issue with rough prints

Ok Guys...

First off, I would like to say thank you to all of you who helped me
get my new E3Dv6 installed and up and running... it really has been
nice to work with so far....

However, I having some issues with rough printing....

What I have done:

Ok... when updating my firmware, I watched a video that explained
changing the z axis to fix step issues...

And then used a prusa calculator to get the best layer height for
printing at .20 height (.1976)

I also did the extruder calibration setup as well... but I am still
getting strange artifacts on the outer perimeters...

I have tried to attach 2 images of the problem I am having....

Can anyone trouble shoot this for me or make a suggestion on what
I perhaps did wrong???

Thanks!

Cujo

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2 (edited by grob 2014-06-25 05:08:58)

Re: Issue with rough prints

Not exactly sure - looks like the layers are coming out in pulses.

You've calibrated the extruder, but have you done all of the following?
* Hot end temp PID tuning
* Extruder driver VREF
* Steps-per-mm
* Wall thickness

Have you tried changing the hot-end temperature up or down 5C? What temp are you running at now?

Also, anything feel loose/wobbly?

SD3. Mk2b + glass, heated enclosure, GT2 belts, direct drive y shaft, linear bearings, bowden-feed E3D v5 w/ 0.9° stepper
Smoothieboard via Octoprint on RPi

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Re: Issue with rough prints

Grob....

I did not do a PID yet as the temp seemed to holding fairly consistently...
I did do a extruder calibration adjustment...  (I am not sure what VREF is)

Currently the hotend temp with E3D is running around 215*

Cujo

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Re: Issue with rough prints

Aaaaah... I assume you're using ABS?
As the E3D measures block temp rather than nozzle temp like the stock unit, the temp needs to be set a bit higher to compensate. I run my E3D v5 with ABS at 230°C. Try this and see whether it improves at all.

Adjusting Vref is adjusting the motor current for the extruder motor with the tiny wee trimpot. Your E3D will need a different amount of torque than the stock hot end, so it's worth retuning the driver current to match. If it's incorrectly set then it may either miss steps or pulse too strongly. There's a few techniques, one is by voltage, but I like to do it by sound. Have a look here: http://www.soliforum.com/topic/6196/bes … -trimpots/

SD3. Mk2b + glass, heated enclosure, GT2 belts, direct drive y shaft, linear bearings, bowden-feed E3D v5 w/ 0.9° stepper
Smoothieboard via Octoprint on RPi

5 (edited by wardjr 2014-06-25 15:35:24)

Re: Issue with rough prints

grob wrote:

Aaaaah... I assume you're using ABS?
As the E3D measures block temp rather than nozzle temp like the stock unit, the temp needs to be set a bit higher to compensate. I run my E3D v5 with ABS at 230°C. Try this and see whether it improves at all.

Adjusting Vref is adjusting the motor current for the extruder motor with the tiny wee trimpot. Your E3D will need a different amount of torque than the stock hot end, so it's worth retuning the driver current to match. If it's incorrectly set then it may either miss steps or pulse too strongly. There's a few techniques, one is by voltage, but I like to do it by sound. Have a look here: http://www.soliforum.com/topic/6196/bes … -trimpots/

+1 VREF's are going to be very important with the E3d's much smaller melt zone.
Temp needs to be 230 - 245  depending on speeds.
I see plenty of moire so adjusting that VREF by ear is about the only way to reduce that as much as possible.  To completely eliminate it you will need to go to 1/32 stepper driver (DRV8825).
I also see over extrusion so calibrating a single wall to .48 to dial in your extrusion multiplier will help.
Also worth mention would be extrusion width (tool path). There are plenty of users running with the standard .42 as the extrusion width.  Those numbers were great when SD's came with a .35 nozzle.  Since they now ship all SD's with a .40 nozzle and most users upgrading to the E3d at least start with a .40 nozzle.  Those extrusion width numbers should be closer to .48.  Past that I am guessing your filament is plenty saturated with humidity.  Summer is great for most activities except 3Dprinting wink

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions