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Topic: Good prints/ failed prints

What is the average ratio for good prints to bad prints in your experiences?

Ulitmaker 2, a few repraps, Custom Big FFF 3D printer with heated chamber.

My Blog http://ggalisky.weebly.com/
My Youtube https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCXShYo … aDUpebDAOw

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Re: Good prints/ failed prints

That's a very loaded question that heavily depends on so many variables.
Inexperience will lead to about 50% failures
Poor calibration will get you about 30% failures
So you end up at about a 20% chance of success.
Don't freat as both of these things can be fixed.
It takes a while to truely understand all the components of a successful print.
At this point I find that the only time I end up with a failed print is when I rush to get it going.
Taking time to review your profiles for each particular print job and then reviewing the G-code output can save a lot of failed prints.
So the short answer is that it really depends on the user and the printer.  At this point I would guess that about 95% of my prints are successful.  The failures breakdown like this... 4% I screwed up and the remaining 1% is from something breaking on the printer.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

3

Re: Good prints/ failed prints

Just curious do you keep any of your old prints? Also thanks for the printer advice I'm am going to need it.

Ulitmaker 2, a few repraps, Custom Big FFF 3D printer with heated chamber.

My Blog http://ggalisky.weebly.com/
My Youtube https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCXShYo … aDUpebDAOw

4

Re: Good prints/ failed prints

What do you mean by "old prints"?  I do a lot of prototyping so I throw a lot away.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

5

Re: Good prints/ failed prints

Over the last 500 prints, I've had 30 failures, give or take. Most of those come from running out of filament mid-print and botching the changeover.

It helps that 99% of those prints have been the same gcode. big_smile

6 (edited by Ggalisky 2014-06-05 03:46:53)

Re: Good prints/ failed prints

Not that I would know anything about your old prints. wink

Ulitmaker 2, a few repraps, Custom Big FFF 3D printer with heated chamber.

My Blog http://ggalisky.weebly.com/
My Youtube https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCXShYo … aDUpebDAOw

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Re: Good prints/ failed prints

Ggalisky wrote:

Not that I would know anything about your old prints. wink

I'm still confused... Is there a question that I'm missing?

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

8

Re: Good prints/ failed prints

Oh never mind the last comment. Any ways I would define and old print as something that didn't print the way you wanted, or you didn't want it any more. You end up throwing away your old prototypes right?

Ulitmaker 2, a few repraps, Custom Big FFF 3D printer with heated chamber.

My Blog http://ggalisky.weebly.com/
My Youtube https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCXShYo … aDUpebDAOw

9

Re: Good prints/ failed prints

I usually throw them into a container with some acetone.  Needless to say I don't ever need to make ABS slurry wink

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

10

Re: Good prints/ failed prints

wardjr wrote:

At this point I find that the only time I end up with a failed print is when I rush to get it going.

+1

In design, slicing, or warm-up. Trouble is I do this all the time! big_smile

SD3. Mk2b + glass, heated enclosure, GT2 belts, direct drive y shaft, linear bearings, bowden-feed E3D v5 w/ 0.9° stepper
Smoothieboard via Octoprint on RPi

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Re: Good prints/ failed prints

Like Ward says it depends on a lot of variables....

Since most of the prototypes I print do not use support but probably should I get about 5-10 percent failure rate, in my regular prints(things I print more than 10 of... usually mechanically related) it is probably less than 1 percent failure rate.

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Re: Good prints/ failed prints

Many of my prints are designs by others. Some of those designs are not really conducive to having a successful print if success means the print looks like the .STL model before slicing.

If success means the print finished, it would increase the success ratio. smile

SD2 Expert stock, ABS fume fan,
XYZ DaVinci 1.0 stock ABS, Simplify3D
QUBD Two-Up PLA, new 3D printed X gantry, Y idler, flex z coupler, extruder mount, E3D Lite

13

Re: Good prints/ failed prints

First 3 months of ownership - not a single good print. Power supply wouldn't heat the bed, everythign peeled in 60-120 seconds.

Next 2 months - Small prints worked, still peeled pretty bad though

Last 4-6 weeks - Not a single failed print. Got the right combination of temps, speeds, layer heights, small brim, and using an ABS/acetone slurry to prep the kapton tape on my glass bed that is properly leveled.

tl;dr - heat glass bed, kapton tape, acetone slurry, and small brim. Prints stick and no other problems out of the box.

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Re: Good prints/ failed prints

I've had my printer for quite a while now. I was one of the first batch of SD2s released. Like the others posting here, my first number of prints were not totally successful. Some complete failures. I save most of my prints, even the failed ones just because their failures look spectacular enough to call them art. In the past six months, I have been designing prototype parts for projects I've been working on and they have all printed completely. Some worked while others did not due to poor measuring and other design flaws. As far as printing goes, all have printed. I maintain my printer regularly but found that my bed does not fluctuate much and needs little adjusting.

I use the standard heated print bed with Kapton tape. I do not print on glass like many people here simply because I do not have problems with the standard bed. I've replaced the hot end once with another standard Solidoodle hot end. I do not keep the cover on and do not have issues with heat escaping the unit. My prints stick well to my bed and I do not print with a brim. It took a while to get my printer adjusted to print like this but the time was well worth it.

SD2
E3D V6
MK5 V6

15 (edited by LdyMox 2014-06-12 19:13:07)

Re: Good prints/ failed prints

Over all during the last year plus. I would say I get about a 20% failure rate for various reasons. I just come to expect failed prints every few prints.

Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA