1

Topic: Fire proof enclosure?

Hey,

After Skyminer's terrible situation I thought it worth finding out if anyone had done any research into creating a box that might be capable of containing an accidental fire generated by one's printer.

I'm ordering the final parts of an RRD Ord Bot this week so at least for me it's a good time to be looking into ensuring my home is safer than it would be without.

I've seen aerogel and glass micro-bead in epoxy mentioned elsewhere.

Any thoughts?

This is a crowd funding thing that I'm running: http://www.gofundme.com/bvi140 It's for pretty selfish reasons tongue

2

Re: Fire proof enclosure?

You would likely need to contain the spool of filament within the enclosure as well.  Otherwise, if the filament catches fire inside the printer its just going to travel right outside the box.

SD2 with E3D, SD Press, Form 1+
Filastruder
NYLON (taulman): http://www.soliforum.com/topic/466/nylon/

3 (edited by AZERATE 2014-06-03 20:37:10)

Re: Fire proof enclosure?

DePartedPrinter wrote:

You would likely need to contain the spool of filament within the enclosure as well.  Otherwise, if the filament catches fire inside the printer its just going to travel right outside the box.

+1
No such thing as fireproof plexiglass unfortunately. With the nature of 3D printing, we do need a transparent barrier to gauge the success/fail of a print. Here is one (possibly very expensive) solution.
http://www.fireglass.com/

To add, I searched for a hot minute (no pun intended) for "fireproof plexiglass". I got many results, but the heat specs state temperature warpage starting at 100c+.

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

4

Re: Fire proof enclosure?

I think an easy option would just be rigging up an automatic fire extinguisher inside the case. Although you probably still need a way to interrupt the power in the event of a fire.

SD2 with E3D, SD Press, Form 1+
Filastruder
NYLON (taulman): http://www.soliforum.com/topic/466/nylon/

5

Re: Fire proof enclosure?

They make fire bottles with melting tubes:

http://www.vwheritage.com/vw_spares_Fir … 050754.htm

They're meant for use in old VWs, where the fuel tank was on top (!!!) of the engine compartment:

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q209/1966vw/bus2.jpg

Personally, I think the right answer is keeping a fire extinguisher near, a smoke detector overhead, and never running it unattended. That's what I do, at least. 3D printers are highly experimental products capable of getting over 300C, it just makes sense to take precautions.

6

Re: Fire proof enclosure?

I would second Elmoret's suggestion of keeping a fire extinguisher and smoke detector near the printer and also have one outside the door of the printer room, this is how I have my metal casting room set up since I am continuously dealing with temps from 600F to over 1800F it just common sense to have several means of dealing with fire at quick and handy locations to access because with fire you don't have much time to play with it... you either get it out in the first minute or it's toast.

7

Re: Fire proof enclosure?

Indeed, I've already got an extinguisher and multiple alarms within about 10 metres of the printer at the moment, they were very much a given when I got the printer months ago.
I'm very much a worst-case-scenario kind of person so my questions tend to deal with unlikely but still worrisome issues, hence why I was interested in a case concept.

Elmoret, that meltable tubing extinguisher is quite curious, thanks smile
Good old VW!


On a humorous note... Anyone got any of the tiles NASA used on the Shuttle? Those things were awesome.

This is a crowd funding thing that I'm running: http://www.gofundme.com/bvi140 It's for pretty selfish reasons tongue

8

Re: Fire proof enclosure?

Here's a crazy idea:  how about filling the enclosure with an inert gas, so even if temperatures got out of hand a fire couldn't propagate?

I'm picturing a sealed dome (box with open button) enclosure that drops down over the entire printer and spool.  You could then fill it with helium if you needed to print a long print, or hook up a small tank (or a large balloon) some sort of heat sensitive valve so that if the a fire did start inside the compartment, it would fill with gas that would snuff it out.

Although, I guess at that point it would probably be easier to just put an automatic halon fire extinguisher next to the printer:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Halon-SS-30-Fir … 4897.l4275

I think that's what I'm going to do.

9

Re: Fire proof enclosure?

Am I the only one reminded of Terminator 2 when halon is discussed? smile

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

10

Re: Fire proof enclosure?

Dunndunndunnnnn dun dun dun....

Thanks for that link, Teal.
Should ease my paranoia significantly.

This is a crowd funding thing that I'm running: http://www.gofundme.com/bvi140 It's for pretty selfish reasons tongue

11

Re: Fire proof enclosure?

How about a stand-alone smoke detector that would monitor the enclosure and then kick off a relay to kill power to the power strip?

Not an electronics guru...but I think many hard-wired smoke detectors have a relay output already built in for triggering other smoke detectors.  This could be ported to a separate relay to kill the power strip.

Although, like the old saying goes, if there's smoke, there's probably already a fire!

SD2 - Stock - Enclosure - Heated Bed - Glass Plate - Auto Fire Extinguisher
Ord Bot Hadron - RAMPS 1.4 - Bulldog XL - E3D v6 - 10" x 10" PCB Heated Build w/SSR - Glass Plate
Thanks for All of Your Help!

12

Re: Fire proof enclosure?

There are more sources of fire than just inside the build area. I have smoked an electronics board once. And I have heard of others having power supply failures. If your going to build an anti-fire system, then you should contain the entire machine with spool.

Chuck Bittner is a quadriplegic gamer who is petitioning the major console developers to include internal button remapping in all console games. You can help.
Sign Chuck Bittners petition

13

Re: Fire proof enclosure?

Hazer wrote:

There are more sources of fire than just inside the build area. I have smoked an electronics board once. And I have heard of others having power supply failures. If your going to build an anti-fire system, then you should contain the entire machine with spool.

Hence:
>> ...enclosure that drops down over the entire printer and spool.  You could then...

14

Re: Fire proof enclosure?

In Skyminer's topic it was discussed one of the potential cause of catastrophic failure could be extruder temperature going to the roof, or electric short that ignited the plastic.
How can this happen and how to avoid this proactively?
1- complete controller freeze. the extruder (and bed) temperature are actively controlled by the firmware, if firmware locks up the extruder mosfet could be left permanently on.
Solution: passive hardware solution like a thermal fuse that breaks power if temperature reaches an abormal temperature.
I found these inexpensive and small devices that could be bolted on the extruder or its proximity.
http://www.thermodisc.com/en-US/Product … lletin.pdf
http://www.atcsemitec.co.uk/pdfdocs/PEP … l_fuse.pdf

Any suggestion on how to implement them? Should it break just extruder power or printer power? I don't think it would be a good idea to run AC wires along with other extruder wires. A relay connected to power supply?

2- thermistor dislodgement and/or inaccurate reading. If thermistor is shorted it would trigger max_temp. If disconnected it would trigger min_temp. But if it is simply dislodged and stays near the extruder? or if it is producing a false reading? Is this possible?
Possible solutions: additional thermistor? thermal fuse? firmware protection (maybe in the PID routine)? A combination of all three?

3- Electrical short circuit: in this example extruder wires got tangled into the extruder. Could it ever happen to the Solidoodle?
http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,294850,page=1
Anyway the controller could fail for any reason and it is not protected at all.
Solution: metal box for controller? Fuse? Keep filament spool far from the electronics? Default setup is very close.

4- Power supply failure: if positioned directly underneath filament spool it could ignite it. But where to locate it?
Solution: switch to an all-metal quality desktop computer PSU?

5- stepper motor failure: if stepper motor stops working (jam, belt failure, driver failure) I suppose the printer will keep going. If extruder jams and sits on the printer part could it be ignited?

I don't think smoke detectors are useful except to ring an alarm. As said if there is smoke there is already a fire. Automatic Fire extinguisher for engine bays would be clever as they don't depend on electrical devices.

Any other thoughts?

15

Re: Fire proof enclosure?

The highest thermal fuse I've ever found is rated for ~200C continuous use.

One mode of failure you are overlooking is MOSFET failure, sometimes they stick on. Firmware doesn't really lock up because of watchdog timers (not certain these are enabled in Marlin, though I would imagine so).

You could use two thermistors with cross/checking and a crowbar SCR over the main fuse on the board, triggered in the event of a maxtemp/mintemp/crosscheck failure. Of course, there are no boards available with this feature currently.

Of course, this means any time you disconnected a thermistor (swapping hotends?) with the unit powered on, you'd pop the fuse. So then you have folks bypassing safeties due to nuisance trips.

It also means you have no protection against power supply fire - that one is pretty difficult to defend against aside from smoke detectors and human intervention. It also means you don't have much protection against oddities like the heater cartridge coming out, or wires shorting, or connectors melting, etc.

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Re: Fire proof enclosure?

You're right Elmoret, all thermal cut offs I've found sustains 200°C continuous use, I wonder if there is a technical limitation of the pellet substance or just lack of demand. I might write to the manufacturers to understand.

Could it be placed near the extruder where normal operating temperature is right below 200°C?

As you have definitely more experience with the hardware involved compared to me, will an always-on extruder reach flash point and/or auto-ignition temperature of ABS, which are 390-420°C the former and 460-510°C the latter?
What about limiting maxium extruder power? This will lengthen warm-up time but it is an acceptable trade-off.

You're right, MOSFET could fail. Here's an interesting document http://www.4qd.co.uk/serv/MOSFETfail.html
But what can cause an hazard from a MOSFET failure? The exploding MOSFET itself? In this case a metal enclosure for the controller itself should be enough. And if shorted the thermal cut off will take care of shutting down the printer.

If we use a relay to shut down printer we have to consider also relay failure. But I think we should concentrate on the hazard with the highest chance of occurrence.

17

Re: Fire proof enclosure?

One mode of failure you are overlooking is MOSFET failure, sometimes they stick on. Firmware doesn't really lock up because of watchdog timers (not certain these are enabled in Marlin, though I would imagine so).

By default the watchdog is off. I have personally had my solidoodle freeze on me twice. Once was trying to use the SDcard support.

elmoret is right, the highest standard thermal cutoff is 240C. If you tape it directly to the heat block, it might not trip if you have any fans going. And then what do you cut off? Your best bet is to run to an automotive relay and cut the 12VDC from the PSU. But you  have now added even more wiring to cause a fire in the first place.

Seriously, if you want to cover all causes of fire, you need to place the printer in an enclosed area with with smoke detection that cuts off the AC power and an automatic extinguisher triggered by heat. Going by previous experiences throughout these forums and Reprap, the most common causes of fires has been mostly electrical, and thermal runaway of the extruder as close second. In either case, software alone cannot prevent the electrical issues, and cannot mitigate the problem once it happens.

Chuck Bittner is a quadriplegic gamer who is petitioning the major console developers to include internal button remapping in all console games. You can help.
Sign Chuck Bittners petition

18 (edited by ysb 2014-06-09 18:42:50)

Re: Fire proof enclosure?

you can use this.. put the head jut above your printer... automatic extinguisher

http://www.amazon.com/Fire-Fight-Produc … tinguisher

or this :

http://www.amazon.com/Fire-Fight-Produc … tinguisher

or even this :

http://www.amazon.com/BLAZECUT-Automati … tinguisher

that you can put just around your printer or above..

all are set of eletrical and common fire. (A,B,C)

and this one that is a lot cheaper:

http://www.amazon.com/Sun-Systems-Flame … tinguisher


edit : i removed the picture and join it to the message because they are too big

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19

Re: Fire proof enclosure?

Fires need oxygen.. There's no air in a vacuum.. The ultimate fire proof enclosure will be a vacuum chamber.

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Re: Fire proof enclosure?

gr3g wrote:

Fires need oxygen.. There's no air in a vacuum.. The ultimate fire proof enclosure will be a vacuum chamber.

IMHO, an environment with an inert (or relatively inert) gas (like nitrogen or helium) would be far easier to maintain and less likely to adversely affect the heating and cooling behavior of your printer.  I imagine the main board, extruder, and motors would all fry very quickly without any air or gas to cool them or create the necessary thermal gradients for proper operation.  On the good side, however, a heated bed would finally heat up quickly!

21

Re: Fire proof enclosure?

I'm making my enclosure out of transparent Polycarbonate which is cheap and is "self extinguishing, stops the spread of flame and also has excellent fire resistant properties"

22

Re: Fire proof enclosure?

aaronstalling wrote:

I'm making my enclosure out of transparent Polycarbonate which is cheap and is "self extinguishing, stops the spread of flame and also has excellent fire resistant properties"

Don't suppose you've got a link to the supplier this magical material?

This is a crowd funding thing that I'm running: http://www.gofundme.com/bvi140 It's for pretty selfish reasons tongue

23

Re: Fire proof enclosure?

Serin wrote:
aaronstalling wrote:

I'm making my enclosure out of transparent Polycarbonate which is cheap and is "self extinguishing, stops the spread of flame and also has excellent fire resistant properties"

Don't suppose you've got a link to the supplier this magical material?

I did a quick Google search with what Aaron had in the quotemarks, and found several Roofing Supplies pages about transparent tiles... Is that what it's from, by any chance?

Two SD3s - One with Sang, One with Printrboard, Fans on control boards!!! Do this!!!, Dual Glass Beds, Blacklight "EZ Bake Oven" - Improves Ambient Temp, Sketchup, Repetier, Slic3r. Graphic Designer & Makeshift Engineer. Drinks Lots and Lots and Lots of Rum.

24

Re: Fire proof enclosure?

^ Clear / transparent Polycarbonate can be found on McMaster.. Also they'll sell it at the following:

professionalplastics (.com)
tapplastics (.com)
portplastics (.com)

A lot of polymers are flame retardant and self extinguishing.. Many will be UL 94 V0 compatible, which is the way to go.

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Re: Fire proof enclosure?

tealvince wrote:
gr3g wrote:

Fires need oxygen.. There's no air in a vacuum.. The ultimate fire proof enclosure will be a vacuum chamber.

IMHO, an environment with an inert (or relatively inert) gas (like nitrogen or helium) would be far easier to maintain and less likely to adversely affect the heating and cooling behavior of your printer.  I imagine the main board, extruder, and motors would all fry very quickly without any air or gas to cool them or create the necessary thermal gradients for proper operation.  On the good side, however, a heated bed would finally heat up quickly!

All good points! Also thanks for the link to the self-deploying fire extinguisher on ebay.. Looks clutch!