Re: x axis homing to left?
see its wavy like that on every layer. not just the first one.
does that change things?
nutshell it is constantly wavy.
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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Solidoodle Discussion → x axis homing to left?
see its wavy like that on every layer. not just the first one.
does that change things?
nutshell it is constantly wavy.
Adjusting the Vref will reduce moire (wavy stuff) the motor pulses more if the voltages are off. So that's why you want to adjust it first then calibrate last. Very tiny adjustment's will get the job done. Just make sure you don't touch anything else on the board. Preferably use a plastic or ceramic screwdriver but a small eyeglasses screwdriver will work.
Adjusting the Vref will reduce moire (wavy stuff) the motor pulses more if the voltages are off. So that's why you want to adjust it first then calibrate last. Very tiny adjustment's will get the job done. Just make sure you don't touch anything else on the board. Preferably use a plastic or ceramic screwdriver but a small eyeglasses screwdriver will work.
if I use a grounding strap on my wrist will that help ensure no static discharge?
That's a good idea... more importantly don't short anything else on the board.
That's a good idea... more importantly don't short anything else on the board.
gotcha, ill work on this later tonight maybe if I have time.
another dumb one, should I start off clockwise or counterclockwise?
I would bet you need about 1/16 - 1/18 turn clockwise tops. Just remember very small adjustments and you could even do that in the middle of a print job. If you turn it up too much (clockwise) it will groan and get noisy. Turn it down too much it will just stop moving. I think your printerboard is the newer Rev E which is unfortunate as the older Sang boards you could just swap out the driver to 1/32. More steps means less pulse = no Moire.
so I got that figured out.
but this line code is pulling the nozel to far away from the bed:
G1 Z[first_layer_height] F200 ;move platform close to nozzle
and the layer height for the first layer on my test box is .300mm so its going up exactly the layer height.
is there a way to keep this from pulling so far up.
I have the nozel close enough to the bed, any closer it will drag on the bed, which is glass ![]()
I think that part of the start code is pre-print. I bet you have z-lift on in your profile.
z lift on in slic3r?
I think the nozzle size is wrong?
I think your right.
changed it, to .4
problem is its printing the stacking layers well? I guess for this test box, but the first layer infill is stringy,
ill throw a pic of it up when im done doing it.
**side note how do i get it so my picture shows up so you don't have to click on the hyperlink to see it, so it is in the body of my message?
all of this is with the nozzle input changed to .4 the filament measured and averaged to be 1.74 mm and a 1 for ratio.
so here is the first layer with the infill that is messing up

this is a shot of the side,
the white or light dots you see are little pops that are happening when the filament is being extruded, either in the air or making an object the filament does like a pop/ bulge for just a millisecond, and creates inconsistencies, in this case an area where light is coming through. these "pops" when they happen in extruding into just the air, they happen about every 30-40 mm of extruded filament.
or this happened: my filament absorbed humidity, water,
http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troublesho … oo_Cold_01
toward the top of the link, but mine isn't doing exactly this as you can see.
Look straight down the filament. Make sure the drive pulley and the tension bearing are aligned with the top of the E3D. You could have some bad filament but I am guessing you are just slightly to close to the bed. Try about a 1/4 turn on the z stop to give some room for the filament to come out. Make sure the drive gear is clean.
That looks off to me. You need to move that drive gear out so it is perfectly centered.
Up your temp to 245
will do those two things.
printing now, looks better but still not as good as it should.
the the spacing I gave the nozzle to the bed is a thickness of a business card.(it has a hair of resistance when I slid it under the nozzle, definitely not too much)
im at the end of my roll of filament maybe that's why its so crap.
I think we have done everything we can here. lol
unless you have a few more tricks ![]()
do you think its the powersupply not keeping up?
im letting everything heat for 15 mins, and I prime 20mm a filament before I start the job.
im stumped. lol



and don't take any of my frustration as a sign that I don't want help. ![]()
I have learned so much already and plan on learning more.
threw a roll of green on and what do you know substantially better result still no dice, but better ill throw pics up before I go to bed.
not sure if this is good or not.
this again is a test box .3 mm single strand wall thickness.
1.74mm 1 ratio.
just trying to get the first layer to lay like it should.(this info for new comers to the thread)





is it my 1.74mm measurement that is hurting me, should I make it a hair more or less maybe to get it to push more out?
that's my thoughts. ![]()
When that first layer is going down are you still hearing that popping sound? That is the filament stripping. If so you might want to tighten the tension arm. Make sure that bearing is square and centered with the drive gear. You may need to move a washer to the other side to get it centered.
When that first layer is going down are you still hearing that popping sound? That is the filament stripping. If so you might want to tighten the tension arm. Make sure that bearing is square and centered with the drive gear. You may need to move a washer to the other side to get it centered.
ill square the bearing up. it is off sum.
the poping im talking about is like a pop in the extruded material like a tiny bubble snaping/ or poping.
I know the pop you are talking about, I havnt had that in a long time well before we had these new issues I got rid of the the motor popping stripping issue.
Good, That other sound more of a snap is moisture in the filament. I think you may be under extruding at least on the first layer. So you need to find that sweat spot of z-height and first layer extrusion width. From the pictures it looks as though you still have your fair share of moire. You could also retract either more or faster on layer change. That is what is causing that one corner to have blobs all the way up. You can verify this by having it generate random start points in your profile.
holy hell I think its fixed ill mess with the moire,
I just needed to bring the nozzle just that hair bit closer.
I think the business car I was using was kinda thick ![]()
thankyou again for all the help. super big help.
so just to put it out there.
I cant go any more slow on the moire setting on that dial or it just messes up the extrusion and essentially half extrudes ![]()
It's not a matter of slow. You are adjusting the voltage so it is a matter of smooth. With that driver you'll never totally eliminate it. Clockwise is higher voltage.
Either way I'm happy you got it going.
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