26

Re: x axis homing to left?

ronsii wrote:
ryan-mm85 wrote:

so I just printed a test box. I have no idea what is going on now.
it turned out perfect.

bah.....

Well.... If I were you I would start modding some more until it's messed up again..... wink

I think that's what im going to do. big_smile
the new hotend is already on its way.

27

Re: x axis homing to left?

^^ LOL, You sound just like me wink never leave well enough alone. heh heh

28

Re: x axis homing to left?

what is the best mount or setup for an extruder when I get the E3D installed?
fan wise and stuff, will I be using the mk5?

29

Re: x axis homing to left?

Yes the MK-5 seems to be the preferred mount.
you can buy one directly from filastruder for like $5 That fits the larger groove mount of the E3D. 
I attached a file of that same MK-5.  The other three parts are the same as the one on thingiverse.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:111213

Post's attachments

MK-5_REDO_E3d.stl 90.71 kb, 7 downloads since 2014-04-12 

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Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

30

Re: x axis homing to left?

ok good I have that exact one istalled.

31

Re: x axis homing to left?

ryan-mm85 wrote:

ok good I have that exact one istalled.

Unless you got it from me or elmoret it isn't the exact same.  That's why I included the file also.  The groove on the E3D is larger than normal.  The one you have will work but you'll have to use some tape to take up the play.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

32 (edited by ryan-mm85 2014-04-16 02:28:56)

Re: x axis homing to left?

wardjr wrote:
ryan-mm85 wrote:

ok good I have that exact one istalled.

Unless you got it from me or elmoret it isn't the exact same.  That's why I included the file also.  The groove on the E3D is larger than normal.  The one you have will work but you'll have to use some tape to take up the play.

printed done and done.

question,
my y axis is off by a tolerance of .019 inches and my x is off .006 inches.
is this normal

my z axis is dead on.

33

Re: x axis homing to left?

Are you saying that what you printed is larger in the direction of those axis by that amount?

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

34 (edited by ryan-mm85 2014-04-16 03:24:41)

Re: x axis homing to left?

wardjr wrote:

Are you saying that what you printed is larger in the direction of those axis by that amount?

smaller,

and its not my feed rate, or the calibration of the stepper those are dead on. I did the hollow box test print at .3mm comes out perfect.

35

Re: x axis homing to left?

It could be backlash.  You can eliminate some of that with tighter belts.  Running a pillow block with bearings on the back y-axis rod will help some also.  Other than that it could be caused by poor tolerances of the printer components or something is loose.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

36

Re: x axis homing to left?

ryan-mm85 wrote:

question,
my y axis is off by a tolerance of .019 inches and my x is off .006 inches.
is this normal

my z axis is dead on.

.48mm and .15mm in normal people units. tongue

General part shrinkage as it cools + a touch of backlash in y?

SD3. Mk2b + glass, heated enclosure, GT2 belts, direct drive y shaft, linear bearings, bowden-feed E3D v5 w/ 0.9° stepper
Smoothieboard via Octoprint on RPi

37

Re: x axis homing to left?

grob wrote:
ryan-mm85 wrote:

question,
my y axis is off by a tolerance of .019 inches and my x is off .006 inches.
is this normal

my z axis is dead on.

.48mm and .15mm in normal people units. tongue

General part shrinkage as it cools + a touch of backlash in y?

if you are in anywhere but the USA tongue

but yeah I know metric conversion.
its still too much. not on the x but the y is a pretty hefty amount.

where do I find this pillow block? doesn't come up on thingiverse. or I don't know how to search that site yet lol
im such a beginner.

38

Re: x axis homing to left?

Hehe just poking. smile

I find thingiverse a bit troublesome to search too, that's normal. See if there's a link or attachment in the thread. Failing that, type "solidoodle" into the box and most of these things appear somewhere in the list.

SD3. Mk2b + glass, heated enclosure, GT2 belts, direct drive y shaft, linear bearings, bowden-feed E3D v5 w/ 0.9° stepper
Smoothieboard via Octoprint on RPi

39 (edited by ryan-mm85 2014-04-16 07:18:21)

Re: x axis homing to left?

grob wrote:

Hehe just poking. smile

I find thingiverse a bit troublesome to search too, that's normal. See if there's a link or attachment in the thread. Failing that, type "solidoodle" into the box and most of these things appear somewhere in the list.

awesome thanks.

oh no offense taken,
I like metric, base ten is awesome.

but parts im dealing with and rever engineering right now where designed in inches,
and my guy in the UK who does really fast cad work and knows the parts im dealing with is MIA.
so im going at this stuff like a child. tongue

40

Re: x axis homing to left?

E3D came in now just have to figure out how to install it,
and do the software stuff right, so I don't ef up my printer.

41

Re: x axis homing to left?

Right.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

42 (edited by ryan-mm85 2014-04-16 19:36:42)

Re: x axis homing to left?

second I am beyond confused when reading the firware flash stuff.

43

Re: x axis homing to left?

so from what I see I need a new  power supply?

44

Re: x axis homing to left?

Yeah, when I put mine on I tried it out with the stock 12V/12.5A (150W) supply, and had trouble. It heated fine, although the voltage droop was surprisingly enough to cause the E3D fan trouble. When printing (motors running) it seemed to trigger temperature alerts (often enough to be unusable) until I took the cable off the stock supply and crimped it onto a 30A lab bench supply.

Note that I also put a different (0.9 degree) extruder motor on, which is a bit bigger than the stock one and I think is drawing a bit more current too (had to turn vref up a fair bit... :Z), so that could be part of the problem too! The lab supply readout doesn't refresh fast enough to see what the fluctuation is from or how bad it is, but the numbers do move around a fair bit while it's printing (+/- 2A).

I recommend trying it out with the stock supply (the problems I'm having look like it's actively over-current protected smile), and if you do have any trouble go back and reduce the extruder heater max power by half in the firmware (edit in configuration.h again - you'll be good at it by then!) until you get a chance to upgrade the power supply. It will slow down your extruder heat-up a touch, but should not make a huge difference to printing.

SD3. Mk2b + glass, heated enclosure, GT2 belts, direct drive y shaft, linear bearings, bowden-feed E3D v5 w/ 0.9° stepper
Smoothieboard via Octoprint on RPi

45

Re: x axis homing to left?

grob wrote:

Yeah, when I put mine on I tried it out with the stock 12V/12.5A (150W) supply, and had trouble. It heated fine, although the voltage droop was surprisingly enough to cause the E3D fan trouble. When printing (motors running) it seemed to trigger temperature alerts (often enough to be unusable) until I took the cable off the stock supply and crimped it onto a 30A lab bench supply.

Note that I also put a different (0.9 degree) extruder motor on, which is a bit bigger than the stock one and I think is drawing a bit more current too (had to turn vref up a fair bit... :Z), so that could be part of the problem too! The lab supply readout doesn't refresh fast enough to see what the fluctuation is from or how bad it is, but the numbers do move around a fair bit while it's printing (+/- 2A).

I recommend trying it out with the stock supply (the problems I'm having look like it's actively over-current protected smile), and if you do have any trouble go back and reduce the extruder heater max power by half in the firmware (edit in configuration.h again - you'll be good at it by then!) until you get a chance to upgrade the power supply. It will slow down your extruder heat-up a touch, but should not make a huge difference to printing.

where do I get a nice new power supply? that wont burn my house down big_smile

46

Re: x axis homing to left?

See how the stock goes first, you might be ok once it's up to temp.

If you want low-risk and built-for-purpose, I've had good experiences with "meanwell" brand supplies before.
This one from mouser would be pretty super for c. $60, and it's very similar to what others have used. It's difficult to get anything similar much cheaper on eBay as reliably, but depending on where you are watch out for shipping costs.

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Mea … 5tNmzfk%3d

Otherwise, you can always search through eBay, there are many no-name similar things (which I have also had pretty good luck with in other projects). You want 12V and as many A or W as you can afford, minimum about 20A/250W.

Computer (ATX) power supplies are a good cheap, abundant and fairly safe source of 12V (try ebay again if you don't have a box of them lying around already!), but they come with a few caveats:

  • Wiring is a bit more complicated - look up "atx bench supply" on the web to see some people doing it. Basically you have to ground the 'on/off' wire, maybe load the 5V rail a bit (see below) and you're good to go.

  • As they have multiple outputs (3.3, 5, 12, -12), make sure you read the current for a single 12V rail off the label/box. E.g. a typical 450W supply seems to have 17A or so from the 12V (only c. 200W). This would be about the minimum to go for, I'd recommend more (20A+).

  • They're cross-regulated, so the voltage tends to droop (which mostly is a problem for bed heating) if you load up the 12V rail but not the 5V rail. You can fix this by putting a load resistor across the 5V (see here: http://www.soliforum.com/topic/4647/atx … w-voltage/ - but note that a couple of W will get warm, so make sure it's well ventilated or clamped to something metal to minimise fire risk (as you mention).

SD3. Mk2b + glass, heated enclosure, GT2 belts, direct drive y shaft, linear bearings, bowden-feed E3D v5 w/ 0.9° stepper
Smoothieboard via Octoprint on RPi

47

Re: x axis homing to left?

I know of three SD3's running E3D's with stock power supplies with no troubles.  That being said the stock PSU is maxed out and it is a worthy upgrade.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

48 (edited by ryan-mm85 2014-04-17 05:40:39)

Re: x axis homing to left?

grob wrote:

See how the stock goes first, you might be ok once it's up to temp.

If you want low-risk and built-for-purpose, I've had good experiences with "meanwell" brand supplies before.
This one from mouser would be pretty super for c. $60, and it's very similar to what others have used. It's difficult to get anything similar much cheaper on eBay as reliably, but depending on where you are watch out for shipping costs.

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Mea … 5tNmzfk%3d

Otherwise, you can always search through eBay, there are many no-name similar things (which I have also had pretty good luck with in other projects). You want 12V and as many A or W as you can afford, minimum about 20A/250W.

Computer (ATX) power supplies are a good cheap, abundant and fairly safe source of 12V (try ebay again if you don't have a box of them lying around already!), but they come with a few caveats:

  • Wiring is a bit more complicated - look up "atx bench supply" on the web to see some people doing it. Basically you have to ground the 'on/off' wire, maybe load the 5V rail a bit (see below) and you're good to go.

  • As they have multiple outputs (3.3, 5, 12, -12), make sure you read the current for a single 12V rail off the label/box. E.g. a typical 450W supply seems to have 17A or so from the 12V (only c. 200W). This would be about the minimum to go for, I'd recommend more (20A+).

  • They're cross-regulated, so the voltage tends to droop (which mostly is a problem for bed heating) if you load up the 12V rail but not the 5V rail. You can fix this by putting a load resistor across the 5V (see here: http://www.soliforum.com/topic/4647/atx … w-voltage/ - but note that a couple of W will get warm, so make sure it's well ventilated or clamped to something metal to minimise fire risk (as you mention).

so no nice clean looking ones, like the one that came with the SD3?

they are open metal cased power supplies?

is this one good?
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Mur … jPiQ%3d%3d

49

Re: x axis homing to left?

so no nice clean looking ones, like the one that came with the SD3?
they are open metal cased power supplies?

In my experience normally they are, certainly the affordable ones. The SD3 one is big for a soap-on-a-rope, it's unlikely any other of a similar form you can find is more powerful - maybe someone else has a tip?

Unfortunately this job is not a plug-and-play scenario. There's cable chopping and wiring and mucking around whichever way you look at it! Compared to the metal frame ones, the ATX option avoids having to do anything with the AC side of the supply, which may be a small bonus - everything you have to do is low-voltage.

is this one good?

Yes, murata is a good brand, 12V at 33.3A (400W) is more than enough power. However it's listed at $244, no stock, and the datasheet is marked as 'obsolete' (murata will have released a new equivalent model). It has a bunch of features (load-sharing signals and serial control etc.) you won't use. The one I linked earlier was $60 for 350W (also more than enough), so much better bang-for-buck. I figure when you purchased the E3D you didn't account for the cost of a new supply, so minimum spend seemed an implicit requirement. smile

SD3. Mk2b + glass, heated enclosure, GT2 belts, direct drive y shaft, linear bearings, bowden-feed E3D v5 w/ 0.9° stepper
Smoothieboard via Octoprint on RPi

50

Re: x axis homing to left?

wardjr wrote:

I know of three SD3's running E3D's with stock power supplies with no troubles.  That being said the stock PSU is maxed out and it is a worthy upgrade.

PSU iswhat exactly?

and having that maxed out is that bad in the long run?