1 Topic by mike4528 (edited by mike4528 2014-04-04 20:57:45)

  • mike4528
  • Newbie
  • Offline
  • Registered: 2014-04-04
  • Posts: 5

Topic: first 3D printed model, may i have advice.

hi,
i would like to have this model of a 1950s russian jet prototype 3D printed that i made in ac3d. ac3d exports to collada and STL. in order to be in 1/48th scale it will need to be 13 inches long. when i receive the model 3D printed i plan to paint it with testors aluminum spray paint and buffed metal paint as i do with normal plastic models.

may i please ask for advice, this will be my first 3D printing project.

should i have it printed all in one piece or should i have the wings or certain parts printed separately?

i think i need to have the canopy printed separately in order to be clear plastic?

i need to use economy priced cheap plastic in order to afford this, but perhaps i should have the landing gear printed separately in more stronger plastic if there is stronger, or is normal economy plastic strong enough? (the fuselage is hollow.)

do i need to make a temporary stand under that tail that will be clipped off after printing to make sure it doesnt fall on its tail while being printed? (im not sure how 3D printers work)

if i was to print extra copies of this plane in case anyone wants to buy copies of this rare model plane i am thinking i should have the flaps, ailerons, elevators and rudder printed separately so that if anyone wants to buy it as a kit, similar to the rubber molded resin kits one buys of unusual planes the customer will have the option of flaps down and flight controls in what ever position they want.

and is there any way i can test the model to make sure a 3D printing company will be able to accurately print it? it would be disappointing to receive it not printed right. i live in upstate NY USA.

thanks

Post's attachments

1002.jpg 141.64 kb, file has never been downloaded. 

1003.jpg
1003.jpg 137.57 kb, file has never been downloaded. 

You don't have the permssions to download the attachments of this post.

2 Reply by pirvan

  • pirvan
  • pirvan
  • Member
  • Offline
  • From: San Francisco
  • Registered: 2013-03-27
  • Posts: 1,797

Re: first 3D printed model, may i have advice.

That sort of looks like a Su-7, or a cross between a Mig-21 and a Mig-15.  Interesting.

Anyway, I tried doing similar things on the printer and found that the best way is to design your model like a model kit, in parts.  I would print the fuselage in to halves, the wings separate, the landing gear and wheels separate, as well as any of the small parts like landing gear bay doors, pitot tubes, strakes, and any other small parts.

Then glue it all.  This will obviously work best if you print the parts in ABS.  PLA doesn't glue very well, except with epoxy or crazy glue.  But ABS is just like the polystyrene that most model kits are made from.


Good luck.

To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
SD3 printer w/too many mods,  Printrbot Simple Maker Ed.,  FormLabs Form 1+
AnyCubic Photon, Shining 3D EinScan-S & Atlas 3D scanners...
...and too much time on my hands.

3 Reply by mike4528

  • mike4528
  • Newbie
  • Offline
  • Registered: 2014-04-04
  • Posts: 5

Re: first 3D printed model, may i have advice.

That sort of looks like a Su-7, or a cross between a Mig-21 and a Mig-15.  Interesting.

Anyway, I tried doing similar things on the printer and found that the best way is to design your model like a model kit, in parts.  I would print the fuselage in to halves, the wings separate, the landing gear and wheels separate, as well as any of the small parts like landing gear bay doors, pitot tubes, strakes, and any other small parts.

Then glue it all.  This will obviously work best if you print the parts in ABS.  PLA doesn't glue very well, except with epoxy or crazy glue.  But ABS is just like the polystyrene that most model kits are made from.

Good luck.

its a lavotchkin LA-200.

please tell me more about why it works better to design it as a model kit, because part of my intention on this project is that since there are no models available of this plane i could make extra copies of it and sell it as a kit similar to the rubber molded resin kits. actually i think that the resin molded kit market is going to switch to 3D printed "kits" because of the recent increase in 3D printing technology and availability.

what similar things that you tried are you referring to?

thanks

4 Reply by COASTER19

  • COASTER19
  • COASTER19
  • Member
  • Offline
  • From: Kansas
  • Registered: 2013-03-08
  • Posts: 235

Re: first 3D printed model, may i have advice.

When printing steep overhangs, FDM printers such as the Solidoodle need to lay down "support material".  This support needs to be removed after the print finishes, and can not only be hard to remove, but also roughen the surface finish of the model.  If this will be printed on a professional machine, then It will work fine in its current form.  That being said, I have printed more complex models than that on my Solidoodle using support material.  If surface finish isn't a major issue, then go ahead and print it as is saving yourself the time of splitting it into parts.

5 Reply by mike4528 (edited by mike4528 2014-04-05 20:19:17)

  • mike4528
  • Newbie
  • Offline
  • Registered: 2014-04-04
  • Posts: 5

Re: first 3D printed model, may i have advice.

That being said, I have printed more complex models than that on my Solidoodle using support material.

im new at this so im just double checking what this forum is, according to wikipedia solidoodle means:

Solidoodle is a 3D printer company headquartered in Brooklyn, New York. Solidoodle was founded in September 2011 by engineer Sam Cervantes.[1][2][3][4][5] Solidoodle 3D printers use digital files supplied by the user to create physical plastic parts.[6][7][8]

so im guessing that you are someone from kansas who owns 3D printing machines from this brooklyn company? my being in upstate new york it seems i would want to have parts printed in new york for speed and cost in shipping.

im curious where they are located in brooklyn since i used to live in flatbush.

If surface finish isn't a major issue, then go ahead and print it as is saving yourself the time of splitting it into parts.

it might be beneficial to split the model into pieces, because as a possibility to make money off of this model of a rare 1950s prototype that does not exist in the form of model kits i could make extra copies and sell as a model kit if anyone is interested in buying. im sure theres not a big market for model kits of planes that hardly anyone knows about but still there could be some profit.

im new at this, is these screenshots the way one would have the wings printed separately, by laying 4 support prongs that could be easily clipped off after printing as in this screenshot?

Post's attachments

screens1025.jpg
screens1025.jpg 312.75 kb, file has never been downloaded. 

screens1026.jpg
screens1026.jpg 130.6 kb, file has never been downloaded. 

screens1027.jpg
screens1027.jpg 27.55 kb, file has never been downloaded. 

screens1028.jpg
screens1028.jpg 133.59 kb, file has never been downloaded. 

You don't have the permssions to download the attachments of this post.

6 Reply by mike4528 (edited by mike4528 2014-04-05 20:46:59)

  • mike4528
  • Newbie
  • Offline
  • Registered: 2014-04-04
  • Posts: 5

Re: first 3D printed model, may i have advice.

or would i have the entire plane 3D printed by putting a clippable prong on the wingtips and tail like this:

im trying to understand how i should go about this.

Post's attachments

1027.jpg
1027.jpg 36.97 kb, file has never been downloaded. 

You don't have the permssions to download the attachments of this post.

7 Reply by ronsii

  • ronsii
  • Member
  • Offline
  • From: PNW
  • Registered: 2012-10-28
  • Posts: 1,723

Re: first 3D printed model, may i have advice.

mike4528 wrote:

or would i have the entire plane 3D printed by putting a clippable prong on the wingtips and tail like this:

im trying to understand how i should go about this.

If you are thinking that the prongs would be support then you are sort of right.... you will need a lot more prongs(about one every 3 mm.), support is needed any time part of a layer does not have anything underneath it because as the printer extrudes the melted plastic it will sag and droop from gravity and needs something under it.

8 Reply by mike4528 (edited by mike4528 2014-04-05 21:58:54)

  • mike4528
  • Newbie
  • Offline
  • Registered: 2014-04-04
  • Posts: 5

Re: first 3D printed model, may i have advice.

If you are thinking that the prongs would be support then you are sort of right.... you will need a lot more prongs(about one every 3 mm.), support is needed any time part of a layer does not have anything underneath it because as the printer extrudes the melted plastic it will sag and droop from gravity and needs something under it.

then how is it that something like this could have been 3D printed, i dont understand, please explain?

thanks

Post's attachments

henry-segerman-1.jpg 97.57 kb, file has never been downloaded. 

You don't have the permssions to download the attachments of this post.

9 Reply by ronsii

  • ronsii
  • Member
  • Offline
  • From: PNW
  • Registered: 2012-10-28
  • Posts: 1,723

Re: first 3D printed model, may i have advice.

If your FDM printer is setup really good then you can print out over a ledge a little at a time(each vertical layer) but there comes a point at which the angle is too much for this type of printing and will require support(scaffolding)... I can do 45 degrees pretty easily(1:1 ratio) but it also depends on the print and filament.

Have you looked at some of the FDM printing videos on youtube? there are some good examples of this on there smile