1 Topic by Dean

  • Dean
  • Newbie
  • Offline
  • Registered: 2014-04-04
  • Posts: 4

Topic: What is the real differences between Solidoodles?

OK, let me introduce my self. I'm a 3D illustrator wanting to buy my first 3D printer, and Solidooodle has caught my eye.

However I'm a little confused between the 3 models I'm interested in, 2 Pro, 3 and 4.

I understand 3 and 4 have a large print size, but in what other ways are 3 and 4 superior to 2 Pro, other than casing and the look of the printers?
From what I've read they all have the same print resolution. Perhaps I'm missing something here?

I'm tempted to go with the 2 Pro, as I want to keep costs down, especially as I see this printer as really seeing what the tech can do, and a quick way to demo to clients, and quickly produce prototypes, rather than using external print companies.

Anyway, perhaps someone can help me understand what I need to know?

Cheers,
Dean

2 Reply by Rincewind

  • Rincewind
  • Member
  • Offline
  • Registered: 2012-10-16
  • Posts: 334

Re: What is the real differences between Solidoodles?

Hi! Welcome to the forum!

I think you are correct, the main differences are print size (between 2 and 3/4) and casing (between 3 and 4).

SD4s also have a nicer organization of the electronics, which is now contained inside the printer instead of attached to the back, but it's up to you to decide whether it's important.

If you go for a SD2, buy a casing or consider building one yourself (there are plenty of ideas on this forum), it helps a lot with warping.

Print resolution is a tricky factor, and the actual print quality depends more on how well your printer is calibrated (and how lucky you were with the quality of the components).

Ah, and "quick" depends on your definition of "quick". No reasonable print takes less than 2 hours, up to 12+, but this is more or less the same for all 3D printers.

3 Reply by wardjr

  • wardjr
  • wardjr
  • Moderator
  • Offline
  • From: Minnesota
  • Registered: 2013-06-10
  • Posts: 5,624

Re: What is the real differences between Solidoodles?

You pretty much understand the main difference.  SD4 has an enclosure that in my opinion is a must.  Unless you plan to make your own for the SD3.  I am not sure about the SD2 & 3 but the four is now shipping with the newer style extruder assembly.
All of them will need some calibration and tinkering when they arrive on your doorstep.  The biggest complaint seems to be that SD markets these as "Print right out of the box".  Some of them actually do and others get knocked around during shipping enough that they need to be adjusted.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

wardjr's Website

4 Reply by Dean

  • Dean
  • Newbie
  • Offline
  • Registered: 2014-04-04
  • Posts: 4

Re: What is the real differences between Solidoodles?

Thanks for the reply guys.

@rincewind by casing do you mean just constructing the walls and front door to enclose the frame? This should be easy with some perspex right? Why is casing important though? Do 3d printers work best when the ambient temp is high? I guess also casing would help reduce noise? How noisy are they?

Also when a say "quick" 12 hours is incredible. If i use a company like Shapeways its like a 2 week turn around.

@wardjr how straight forward is the calibration? Is there a method to follow or just trail and error? I've never used a 3d printer before, but I'm quite handy mechanically as i build my own PCs and tinker with old cars, so I'm hoping it's not too difficult to pick up.

So overall for a budget first 3d printer it sounds like the 2pro will give me what i need, and theres no difference in tech between the 2 3 and 4? Then its just a case of building the sides.

Sounds almost too good to be true.

Dean

5 Reply by solijohn

  • solijohn
  • Member
  • Offline
  • Registered: 2012-08-07
  • Posts: 1,465

Re: What is the real differences between Solidoodles?

Dean wrote:

Thanks for the reply guys.

@rincewind by casing do you mean just constructing the walls and front door to enclose the frame? This should be easy with some perspex right? Why is casing important though? Do 3d printers work best when the ambient temp is high? I guess also casing would help reduce noise? How noisy are they?

Also when a say "quick" 12 hours is incredible. If i use a company like Shapeways its like a 2 week turn around.

@wardjr how straight forward is the calibration? Is there a method to follow or just trail and error? I've never used a 3d printer before, but I'm quite handy mechanically as i build my own PCs and tinker with old cars, so I'm hoping it's not too difficult to pick up.

So overall for a budget first 3d printer it sounds like the 2pro will give me what i need, and theres no difference in tech between the 2 3 and 4? Then its just a case of building the sides.

Sounds almost too good to be true.

Dean

There is the matter of the extruder. The 4's have a much improved extruder. The 2's and 3's will get the same one soon, but not for a little while yet.

Former Solidoodle employee, no longer associated with the company.

6 Reply by Dean

  • Dean
  • Newbie
  • Offline
  • Registered: 2014-04-04
  • Posts: 4

Re: What is the real differences between Solidoodles?

@solijohn do you have a timeframe for the extruders on 2? Are we talking weeks, months or years?

Cheers,
Dean

7 Reply by wardjr

  • wardjr
  • wardjr
  • Moderator
  • Offline
  • From: Minnesota
  • Registered: 2013-06-10
  • Posts: 5,624

Re: What is the real differences between Solidoodles?

Dean wrote:

Thanks for the reply guys.

@rincewind by casing do you mean just constructing the walls and front door to enclose the frame? This should be easy with some perspex right? Why is casing important though? Do 3d printers work best when the ambient temp is high? I guess also casing would help reduce noise? How noisy are they?

Also when a say "quick" 12 hours is incredible. If i use a company like Shapeways its like a 2 week turn around.

@wardjr how straight forward is the calibration? Is there a method to follow or just trail and error? I've never used a 3d printer before, but I'm quite handy mechanically as i build my own PCs and tinker with old cars, so I'm hoping it's not too difficult to pick up.

So overall for a budget first 3d printer it sounds like the 2pro will give me what i need, and theres no difference in tech between the 2 3 and 4? Then its just a case of building the sides.

Sounds almost too good to be true.

Dean

Based on your stated "handiness"  Calibration is fairly straight forward.  There are plenty of good folks here on the forum that can help if you run into any problems.  As far as the improved extruder of the SD4.  It probably would be worth at least understanding the differences between the new and the old style.  There are plenty of options that you can print out your self to upgrade your extruder.  Most users switch to the MK-5 which replaces the weak acrylic parts that the 2 and 3 come with.  When it comes to enclosure you nailed it.  Shrinkage and warping are reduced greatly with an enclosure.  Temporary enclosure with some Saran Wrap got me through the first few days.
Also there are (my opinion) some things that you will need in order to reliably print.
First is a piece of cheap hardware glass the size of your bed and some Aqua-Net hairspray.  This will ensure you don't get frustrated trying to get your prints to stick.
There are many suggestions that I have for you so I am going to send you a PM
A fan on the electronics is something most users have had to install.  Any old Computer fan works.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

wardjr's Website

8 Reply by Dean

  • Dean
  • Newbie
  • Offline
  • Registered: 2014-04-04
  • Posts: 4

Re: What is the real differences between Solidoodles?

@wardjr thanks for the info, a PM would be great.

Regarding the glass bed, whats so wrong with the one supplied? Also i read another thread about the prints not sticking, so people use hair spray or glue to the glass. I don't understand why people use glass, when its a very glossy surface to begin with. Why don't  people lightly sand the glass instead?

Anyway I'm gonna have to have a good read through the site as I'm sure a lot of my questions have already been answered!

9 Reply by wardjr

  • wardjr
  • wardjr
  • Moderator
  • Offline
  • From: Minnesota
  • Registered: 2013-06-10
  • Posts: 5,624

Re: What is the real differences between Solidoodles?

Your right all of this has been covered here on the forum.  With some research you will find that the most common questions are answered.  Glass just works and some users have tried sanding, etching or other methods and from what I can tell plain glass and Aqua-Net provides the most consistent results.  That being said I think a lot of that has to do with the fact that the aluminum of the bed is either warped or warps from the heat.  Some people have no problem printing on the stock bed.  Glass is flat and  allows for the nozzle to be perfectly calibrated to the surface.  You can just spray the bottom of the glass with the same hair spray and stick it to the bed.  I don't recommend the use of binder clips like some users use.  This can and will slowly warp the glass and your back to the same problem.  Also the nozzle can crash into clips.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

wardjr's Website

10 Reply by Hazer

  • Hazer
  • Hazer
  • Member
  • Offline
  • Registered: 2013-07-19
  • Posts: 478

Re: What is the real differences between Solidoodles?

One big difference between glass and the aluminum:

The aluminum used is not rated for flatness. You have to purchase MIC6 which will only be rated for flatness if it comes in 1/4" thickness (which is very heavy and costly). Glass is inherently flat, and cheap, and you can have more than one piece and swap them between jobs.

Chuck Bittner is a quadriplegic gamer who is petitioning the major console developers to include internal button remapping in all console games. You can help.
Sign Chuck Bittners petition