dave.lantz wrote:So read all the instructions both on the Solidoodle site and here and attempted to level the table. Last test of the spool mount gave a fairly good bead and table adhesion. However! I am concerned about larger parts. I purchased this to make some 5" square x 1/8" thick plates with holes and shapes in them.
When I tested the extruder/plate gap at 2"-3" out from center front/back, left/right - the gaps varied from location to location. I could not adjust the leveling screws in any combo to get equal gaps in all location. this tells me the plate isn't flat. Any suggestions? I've read about adding glass and I'm wondering; if you clamp it to the plate does the glass then bend also? Also when using glass do you heat it? I know you use hairspray to get adhesion.
Second issue is:
Holes are not round. Small holes are especially lousy. Second layer of the run on the spool mount seems to offset in the positive Y direction. I have not calibrated the belts as yet but will that solve my issue?
Last quicky! How precise can I get with this machine? Anyone using it for production parts? Is precision 0.005", 0.010", 0.100" or whatever you have experienced? I'm not using it for making a lot of parts but the one or two per shape I make need to be accurate within reason.
Thanks for all your help!
What model do you have SD2,3,4?
Glass is really your best and cheapest mod you can do. As far as attaching without warping... Just buy some Aqua-Net and spray the bottom of the glass and set it right on the bed with the Kapton tape on. Run it through a couple heat-cool cycles and it should stick to the bed just fine with out warping the glass. Plus no clips in the way of the extruder. Then a light mist on the top of the glass will really help your prints stick. You really want that first layer squished to the glass and a bed temp of 105 - 110. With the glass you will need to let that heat soak through for a bit before you start your print. If you don't have an enclosure you will want to get one. Even wrap it in Saran Wrap until you can come up with a more permanent solution.
As far as your holes not being round.... Calibration is key. Make sure everything moves nice and smooth and tension on the Y-Axis belts are equal. Also plan on putting a pillow block and bearings on that rear Y-shaft. I have seen (on more than one occasion) where the belt to the Y motor is over tight. This will cause that back shaft to deflect and really cause problems with circles.
When it comes to accuracy and precision....
You are squishing hot plastic through a nozzle. So even though a very well calibrated machine can move to .1 mm all day. Getting that squishy plastic that expands as it extrudes to be precise is a challenge. When it comes to parts that I need to be precise I usually go the direction of removal of excess material (drill, file, sand, cut) to get things as close to perfect as possible.
Hope this helps.
Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions
