1 (edited by ANDRAC 2014-03-23 22:31:47)

Topic: Warping ~ Noob scratches his head.

I've read this can be an issue, but didn't expect something along these line (see pix). I'm printing with a new Solidoodle 4 running on Windows 8.1 ~ I've successfully printed the obligatory skull, and "widget" so I went ahead and setup my first real print.

It's a 5" dia x .25" disc with knockouts. I have the deck heated to the suggested 215c.

Thanks folks.

<EDIT>

Tried again just now ~ See Pic3.jpg, started warping on only the 4th pass. Is the deck too warm??

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2

Re: Warping ~ Noob scratches his head.

the bed should be appx 90 the hotend should be appx 200.

if your getting warping you might want to use glass and hairspray. one of the simplest and easiest things you can do to improve your prints.

3

Re: Warping ~ Noob scratches his head.

I hope you meant to say 115 for the bed.  215 would be really hot but would be only slightly high for the nozzle.
+1 on the glass and hairspray (Aqua-Net works great).  Really the best and easiest upgrade you can do.
Bed should be 105 to 110 for ABS
Also with a print of that design you really need 3-5 mm's of Brim and squish that first layer as much as you can.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

4

Re: Warping ~ Noob scratches his head.

Thanks for the quick replies!

Sorry, yes I meant bed at 105. Extruder 215.

So "glass & hairspray" lol? As in a piece of glass on the pad, sprayed with Aqua-Net?

Is there a wiki or "how to" post somewhere? I suspect you'd need to re-calibrate the pad home to account for the additional height?

5 (edited by COASTER19 2014-03-23 22:42:49)

Re: Warping ~ Noob scratches his head.

I use a non-aerosol hairspray on my glass, and it seems to be working fine.  Also, re-leveling the printbed never hurts, and usually fixes sticking issues for me.

Glass bed thread: http://www.soliforum.com/topic/160/glass-bed/

Basically get a piece of glass cut to 8*8" (I use about 3/32" thick (2.4mm)), use 2 binderclips to attach it to the bed, and then adjust the screw by the z-axis endstop in order to accommodate the higher printbed.

6

Re: Warping ~ Noob scratches his head.

the screw on the back wall of the printer youll need to TIGHTEN it so the nozzle dosent hit the glass. i have 1/8th inch on mine its thick but i like it better than the thinner glass.  to keep the glass on the bed you can use those big office bulldog clips. also called binder clips. i use 2 of them some people use 3. aqual net workd i like RAVE 4x mega  anything with plastic polymers will work ( acrylates, vinyls ,polyurethane -copolymers) just read the ingredients

also some people claim spraying hairspray on the bottom of the glass will keep it secure to the bed .... i personally wouldnt trust that

7

Re: Warping ~ Noob scratches his head.

aerosols just give a finer mist is all its the polymers that act like glue that make it stick

8

Re: Warping ~ Noob scratches his head.

MolecularConcept wrote:

the screw on the back wall of the printer youll need to TIGHTEN it so the nozzle dosent hit the glass. i have 1/8th inch on mine its thick but i like it better than the thinner glass.  to keep the glass on the bed you can use those big office bulldog clips. also called binder clips. i use 2 of them some people use 3. aqual net workd i like RAVE 4x mega  anything with plastic polymers will work ( acrylates, vinyls ,polyurethane -copolymers) just read the ingredients

also some people claim spraying hairspray on the bottom of the glass will keep it secure to the bed .... i personally wouldnt trust that

Actually it is me that keeps saying spray the underside of the glass and run it through a couple heat cool cycles.  Binders or clips pose many issues.  Head crashing into them and the glass actually warping are the two main reasons for not using clips.  Since the purpose of the glass it to create a perfectly flat surface it really doesn't make much sense to make it conform to a warped bed.  A few good coats nice and thick and it will stick to the bed just fine.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

9

Re: Warping ~ Noob scratches his head.

+1 convert to wardjr's hairspray underneath trick (kapton's still on the bed underneath). It's pretty well attached (it's not going to move unless you drive the nozzle into the side of it).

SD3. Mk2b + glass, heated enclosure, GT2 belts, direct drive y shaft, linear bearings, bowden-feed E3D v5 w/ 0.9° stepper
Smoothieboard via Octoprint on RPi

10

Re: Warping ~ Noob scratches his head.

grob wrote:

+1 convert to wardjr's hairspray underneath trick (kapton's still on the bed underneath). It's pretty well attached (it's not going to move unless you drive the nozzle into the side of it).

Even then... I have a couple of small chips out of the side of my glass from doing just that big_smile

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

11

Re: Warping ~ Noob scratches his head.

That maaaybe why I mentioned it... smile

SD3. Mk2b + glass, heated enclosure, GT2 belts, direct drive y shaft, linear bearings, bowden-feed E3D v5 w/ 0.9° stepper
Smoothieboard via Octoprint on RPi

12

Re: Warping ~ Noob scratches his head.

I'll join in the +1 on ward's trick, I think that is very clever.  I started with 1/8in glass and hairspray.  I next went to the acetone and abs mix which does an amazing job, not a single print even started coming loose.  It tends to make a mess after each print though, on the part itself and on the bed.  I tried the blue painters tape which i'm currently doing, it's awesome for quickly starting new prints with no mess.

I'm going to try the hair spray underneath since my clips do seem to warp the glass according to my dial indicator.

Bowden SD3, Rumba, E3D hotend, Mk5 with RtRyder changes, Direct drive Y axis and bearings, GT2 pulleys and braided fishing line, Lawsy linear bearing conversion, M3 Z screw.

13

Re: Warping ~ Noob scratches his head.

I also have a can of hair spray at the ready and do use it to touch up the bed from time to time.  However, I started using Elmer's glue (paper glue or even wood glue, whatever you have on hand it's all PVA based).  I first dilute the glue with 4 parts water to one part glue and brush it onto the glass in a thin layer.  Usually works for  even difficult prints and filaments.

14

Re: Warping ~ Noob scratches his head.

I just use an Elmer's Glue Stick. Easy on, easy touch-ups, if you want to clean it off, that's easy too, just run it under warm water for awhile. If using on glass, remove the glass, let it cool in about 2 minutes and the largest prints just pop right off.

SD2 Expert stock, ABS fume fan,
XYZ DaVinci 1.0 stock ABS, Simplify3D
QUBD Two-Up PLA, new 3D printed X gantry, Y idler, flex z coupler, extruder mount, E3D Lite

15

Re: Warping ~ Noob scratches his head.

ggunners wrote:

I just use an Elmer's Glue Stick. Easy on, easy touch-ups, if you want to clean it off, that's easy too, just run it under warm water for awhile. If using on glass, remove the glass, let it cool in about 2 minutes and the largest prints just pop right off.

with ABS or PLA ?

16

Re: Warping ~ Noob scratches his head.

accusedmonk wrote:

I'll join in the +1 on ward's trick, I think that is very clever.  I started with 1/8in glass and hairspray.  I next went to the acetone and abs mix which does an amazing job, not a single print even started coming loose.  It tends to make a mess after each print though, on the part itself and on the bed.  I tried the blue painters tape which i'm currently doing, it's awesome for quickly starting new prints with no mess.

I'm going to try the hair spray underneath since my clips do seem to warp the glass according to my dial indicator.

Just remember it takes 2 or 3 heat cool cycles to stick the glass to the bed well.  I have made the mistake of trying to hurry the process.  Ended up trying to figure out why my motors were suddenly skipping.  Turned out the glass was sliding around and I could see the hairspray still bubbling under the glass.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

17

Re: Warping ~ Noob scratches his head.

ysb wrote:
ggunners wrote:

I just use an Elmer's Glue Stick. Easy on, easy touch-ups, if you want to clean it off, that's easy too, just run it under warm water for awhile. If using on glass, remove the glass, let it cool in about 2 minutes and the largest prints just pop right off.

with ABS or PLA ?

With ABS, haven't tried PLA yet. Figure I need a fan mounted for that and many people recommend blue painters tape with PLA + fan.

SD2 Expert stock, ABS fume fan,
XYZ DaVinci 1.0 stock ABS, Simplify3D
QUBD Two-Up PLA, new 3D printed X gantry, Y idler, flex z coupler, extruder mount, E3D Lite

18

Re: Warping ~ Noob scratches his head.

i've always gotten PLA to stick really well on bare heated glass.

but blue painters tape is my go to thing if i ever get adhesion troubles.