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Topic: Netfab repair settings for SD printer ready STL

I would like to find others that use netfab with ease and success to help me learn how to best set repair settings for best results on a solidoodle 2 printer. several files I got from both Thingaverse and 3Dwarehouse converted to stl with sketchup export, when trying to fix/repair in netfab most wont repair using the 2 default repair presets. had 1 file done by tech at netfab who said it also needs exploded parts thickened and re assembled but still having print issues with that file not wanting to add enough support.
what Im seeking is people familiar using netfab for SD printers to tell how I can setup another repair preset named Solidoodle that would do this automatically. I see a place for setting lots of things like 'border volume .001' for instance. or maybe I can add a repair script mod or something. give me some feedback on what you seasoned guys do. I have tons of cool stuff just dont know how to repair & print the files on my SD. I have many other programs installed but like Netfab best for ease of use and quick repairs when files dont need much tweaking. seems most my files have either inner and outer shells not closed together or walls too thin to either be repaired correct or too thin to print maybe. need a way to make all walls proper thickness to repair and print on my SD.

note: most my prints are being scaled down to approx N scale (1/160th) for my model train layout. so prototype details that would be too tiny to see can be ignored also. I have trouble printing N scale detail items smaller than an average refrigerator for example so I still cast those items the old way.

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

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Re: Netfab repair settings for SD printer ready STL

There's no "magical" "click-here and and it's fixed" script or profile, because every model is different and it may need to be fixed in different ways,  That's why the "automatic" fix doesn't always fix anything and sometimes it makes things worse.  For example close holes, will sometimes fill in areas that should be left opened.

When I click on repair, I almost always end up fixing things manually.  I start by removing degenerate faces and double triangles, then look at the results, and fix whatever other issues that created, then fix flipped triangles , stitch triangles, close trivial holes first, then see if there's anything else that look like it needs fixing, then I apply the fix.

Many time when you try to export the part, it will tell you that it still need to be fixed (manifold edges), but I found that 95% of the time, it doesn't fix anything, and 5% of the time it screws up the model even further, so I ignore the error.

Your best bet is to learn how to fix things yourself.  NetFabb does a good job of showing you what needs to be fixed, but there are other programs that can help, like MeshLab and MeshMixer.

To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
SD3 printer w/too many mods,  Printrbot Simple Maker Ed.,  FormLabs Form 1+
AnyCubic Photon, Shining 3D EinScan-S & Atlas 3D scanners...
...and too much time on my hands.