Topic: Rough Surface Issues
Hi,
I've been having trouble getting the surface of a print to be smooth. I'm using Slic3r and I'm wondering which setting(s) I should mess around with. I attached a photo below.
Thanks in advance.
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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Solidoodle Discussion → Rough Surface Issues
Hi,
I've been having trouble getting the surface of a print to be smooth. I'm using Slic3r and I'm wondering which setting(s) I should mess around with. I attached a photo below.
Thanks in advance.
adjust your extrusion multiplier in Slic3r
adjust your extrusion multiplier in Slic3r
I'm having the same problem on *some* prints as the OP. However if the extruder has been calibrated using the manual method (marking the filament, counting MM's and adjusting in the EEPROM firmware) then you should not have to adjust the filament multiplier in slic3r, do you?
Thanks for the help.
Isn't there a setting in slic3r to fix this like skeinforge? In skeinforge if you set "Infill Interior Density over Exterior Density" it helps make the top layer more solid...
Some things that have effected roughness for me...
1) z height from adjustment screw. If its to low than it'll cause ridges that will propagate up to the layers above. If you have enough layers it tends to work itself out, but on thin objects it needs to be dialed in right. On the other side, if its to high you'll have gaps between infill.
2) in slic3r there is a first layer extrusion %. This needs to be played with in conjunction with layer height to get a full first layer but not ridgey. There is also % normal infill which will effect ridges/roughness, but I find that the first layer is the key to the others.
3) surface your printing on. I was using a tile that would give me ridges in the same place every time. When switching to glass all better.
I'm having the same problem on *some* prints as the OP. However if the extruder has been calibrated using the manual method (marking the filament, counting MM's and adjusting in the EEPROM firmware) then you should not have to adjust the filament multiplier in slic3r, do you?
Even with a perfect calibration there are times when I might need to tweak the amount of plastic needed for a print. Extrusion multiplier is the easiest way to do this.
Photog wrote:I'm having the same problem on *some* prints as the OP. However if the extruder has been calibrated using the manual method (marking the filament, counting MM's and adjusting in the EEPROM firmware) then you should not have to adjust the filament multiplier in slic3r, do you?
Even with a perfect calibration there are times when I might need to tweak the amount of plastic needed for a print. Extrusion multiplier is the easiest way to do this.
is there like a guide somewhere with pictures that explains how to tell when you need to do this stuff? I know how to set that setting in slic3r but I don't know what to look for in my prints when I would need to do that...
Everything isn't listed here
but you can get an idea as whats the cause
http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubl … rial_Guide
Everything isn't listed here
but you can get an idea as whats the cause
Hmm yeah.. Saw that but most of the problems I'm having don't have fixes on there. Like the one with the rough edges just says to adjust your slicer's settings or try a different slicer program. Wish I knew which settings to change. And the other one I * think * is my problem is the "degenerative bridging" but it says to clean out the dust from the extruder, but I don't appear to have any built up dust when I checked.
DePartedPrinter wrote:Photog wrote:I'm having the same problem on *some* prints as the OP. However if the extruder has been calibrated using the manual method (marking the filament, counting MM's and adjusting in the EEPROM firmware) then you should not have to adjust the filament multiplier in slic3r, do you?
Even with a perfect calibration there are times when I might need to tweak the amount of plastic needed for a print. Extrusion multiplier is the easiest way to do this.
is there like a guide somewhere with pictures that explains how to tell when you need to do this stuff? I know how to set that setting in slic3r but I don't know what to look for in my prints when I would need to do that...
I don't know of one. My advice is to keep playing with settings till you understand what each one does. Practice makes perfect.
When I look at your picture of your part I am seeing those raised ridges within the print. These are usually caused by over extrusion which is why I told you to adjust your extrusion multiplier. The drag marks from the extruder are also a good indicator of this.
Photog wrote:DePartedPrinter wrote:Even with a perfect calibration there are times when I might need to tweak the amount of plastic needed for a print. Extrusion multiplier is the easiest way to do this.
is there like a guide somewhere with pictures that explains how to tell when you need to do this stuff? I know how to set that setting in slic3r but I don't know what to look for in my prints when I would need to do that...
I don't know of one. My advice is to keep playing with settings till you understand what each one does. Practice makes perfect.
When I look at your picture of your part I am seeing those raised ridges within the print. These are usually caused by over extrusion which is why I told you to adjust your extrusion multiplier. The drag marks from the extruder are also a good indicator of this.
Ok I applied the flow rate calibration by printing a square empty box and measuring the wall thickness like the guide says for flow rate calibtration. I also measured my average filament width.
So in slic3r my setting in "filament" are now:
Diameter: 1.84 (averaged over 5 readings along the length of the filament)
Multiplier: 0.83 (I was getting wall widths of .50mm and .42mm was the goal)
Now with those settings I should be getting perfect prints since everything else is calibrated including z stop, levelling, PID tuning, and extruder stepping.
However now when using that flow rate I'm getting delamination between layers I didn't get before, and also gaps on the top and bottom layers. It also seems small parts (like a 4mm empty circle) aren't going correctly (it came out as a triangle and warped.)
help!
pictures?
Couple of things
Multiplier: 0.83 (I was getting wall widths of .50mm and .42mm was the goal)
Then you have to adjust your multiplier lower as you are over extruding.
Diameter: 1.84 (averaged over 5 readings along the length of the filament)
That's a little high usually you want 1.68 to 1.72
What are you using to measure the diameter?
Calipers, Mic?
If so what brand?
Couple of things
Multiplier: 0.83 (I was getting wall widths of .50mm and .42mm was the goal)
Then you have to adjust your multiplier lower as you are over extruding.
Diameter: 1.84 (averaged over 5 readings along the length of the filament)
That's a little high usually you want 1.68 to 1.72
What are you using to measure the diameter?Calipers, Mic?
If so what brand?
No, multiplayer was 1.00 i lowered it to .83. Because 83% of .50 is .42
I measured filament with digital caliper. Brand is matterhackers.
No, multiplayer was 1.00 i lowered it to .83. Because 83% of .50 is .42
Then you have to lower the multiplier more if your still not extruding the proper amount.
Rely on the calipers not on your math as your steps per mm on the stepper could be off causing the difference
or your nozzle height from the bed is to low.
You also have filament that's over diameter so that's probably adding to the over extruding.
Plus your calipers are a cheap brand so not telling how accurate those are.
Do you have a feeler gauge or 123 block you can reference them from?
No, multiplayer was 1.00 i lowered it to .83. Because 83% of .50 is .42
Then you have to lower the multiplier more if your still not extruding the proper amount.
Rely on the calipers not on your math as your steps per mm on the stepper could be off causing the difference
or your nozzle height from the bed is to low.You also have filament that's over diameter so that's probably adding to the over extruding.
I think I'm under extruding now though.. Before i was rough surface now After lowering multipliyer I'm getting gaps delam.
What's your retraction set to?
Also with the gaps what's the width of the cube?
pictures?
pictures are worth a thousand words...
What's your retraction set to?
Also with the gaps what's the width of the cube?
I have my retraction set to the default for SD3 that they supplied on their website. I think it's 2.5mm but I'll check when I get home and post all my settings.
The gaps I'm not getting on the cube, I'm getting that on a smaller circular part I'm making. I'll post pics later when I get home.
What's the width of the cube
after adjusting the multiplier lower?
Once you get it to the proper width set the retraction down lower and print that part out again
Ok this is what I was trying to print:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:195266
These are my results:
The little peg is supposed to be 4mm diamater. You can see it came out smaller than the hole it goes in which is also 4mm diameter. You can see also the round holes are not round and the layers are delamination and cracking. This is with fully calibrated everything... What I am trying to say is my flow rate is correct, I'm not asking how to do it, I'm saying it's calibrated. The .83 multiplyer is calibrated, it was 1.00 before and over extruding (walls were thicker than they were supposed to be.)


Here you can see when printing it also leaves things that stick up. Not sure why it does that:
Here's my current slic3r settings





Ok I'm going to tell you a couple of things
1. Were here to help you out, I understand you can be frustrated since 3d printing and be failure after failure but
just try to bare through while we help you figure it out.
2. Your fixated on .83 multiplier yet you have yet to tell me what your wall thickness is now?
if it's not .42 currently bring it down till it is.
3. I can guarantee you haven't done every calibration as there are a ton to do.
Such as adjusting your vref
Nickle test aka xy calibration
Bed wobble test
Z banding test
temperature test
and the list goes on
If your part didn't come out to 4mm then that's telling me you need to possibly do an xy calibration
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11261
have you done that?
3.How far do you have the nozzle from the bed?
4. have you used an indicator to see if your bed is perfectly level?
Honestly a rough surface layer can mean a couple of things so just try to narrow them
down and eventually you'll locate the cause.
And it could be just bad filament. Do you have any other rolls you could test with? But just cross off one thing at a time off the list. It takes a little bit of work to get it, but once you do it'll be all good.
Your third pic is pretty normal... first layers are supposed to be 'overextruded' so they stick better, and the overextruding causes filament squishing upwards.
I'm not mad. Thank you for the help! ![]()
Yes, here the walls are .42ish average with my multiplier set to .83 for this filament. See pics:



It seems to vary where I measure it but mostly around .42.
This is the calibrations I've done:
* Level bed with piece of thin paper (nozzle = same difference on all 3 screw points)
* Calibrated extruder steppings for it was pulling exactly 100mm .
* Calibrated true filament diameter (1.83mm average)
* Calibrated flow rate (.83 multiplier)
* Calibrated PID temps for stable temperature
I have not done all the steps you have said for calibrated I didn't realize those existed. I'll try those. Any other suggestions in the mean time?
Here's another problem I'm getting which I suspect is related. Check out this text. The first picture is BEFORE I calibrated the flow rate and all that. Notice how the letters I printed are nicely filled in and solid. The second and third pic are text I printed after calibrating (lowering) the flow rate. Notice how the letters are not filled in and have gaps. It seems like because of the lower (but proper?) flow rate, it is not putting out enough plastic to properly fill in the text. You can also see that the filament it laid down on the flat surface below the text also has gaps in it. Where in the first picture, it's completely solid.



Or is it something else? Some other setting I'm overlooking in slic3r?
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