1 Topic by foofoodog

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Topic: Nipple twist

Every time I run this thing my hopper slants off 45 degrees to the side eventually because the barrel rotates even though the nipple is screwed into the flange as well as a 200 pound man can do it . I was thinking of yelling at Tim and telling him he needs to provide me with an  NPT lock nut to correct this defect. Now I am starting to think that I will just peen the thing around the perimeter like I used to do to the nut on my shaft to keep my boat propeller on. Or I will go find a lock nut.

2 Reply by elmoret

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Re: Nipple twist

Sounds like you aren't waiting for the plastic to come up to to temperature as described in the manual. Works great for me and hundreds of other users.

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3 Reply by foofoodog

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Re: Nipple twist

elmoret wrote:

Sounds like you aren't waiting for the plastic to come up to to temperature as described in the manual. Works great for me and hundreds of other users.

No, I am running it at 200 on the led reported 190 on the sensor, that is so the little roller pin does not spin around the shaft since it can't handle it. Any other ideas elmo?

4 Reply by elmoret

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Re: Nipple twist

"Elmo"?

Honestly, based on "yell at Tim" and your attitude in Hunter Green's thread, I'd rather just send you a prepaid shipping label and refund you than try to support someone that treats people that way. Let me know.

Filastruder - the robust, inexpensive filament extruder
E3Dv6 All Metal Hotend - the premier 3D printing hotend

5 Reply by foofoodog

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Re: Nipple twist

elmoret wrote:

Works great for me and hundreds of other users.

Customer service at its finest.

6 Reply by foofoodog (edited by foofoodog 2013-10-14 00:18:52)

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Re: Nipple twist

elmoret wrote:

"Elmo"?.

Short for elmoret.

All I said is that it needs a lock nut. That is 2 dollars from Grainger. I will do it myself, thanks for being receptive to the feedback.

7 Reply by foofoodog

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Re: Nipple twist

elmoret wrote:

"Elmo"?

Honestly, based on "yell at Tim" and your attitude in Hunter Green's thread, I'd rather just send you a prepaid shipping label and refund you than try to support someone that treats people that way. Let me know.

It is your business, run it however you want to.

8 Reply by Fastrack (edited by Fastrack 2013-10-14 04:58:24)

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Re: Nipple twist

I just tightened mine with channel locks, I was going to use a pipe wrench, but there's no need! It sounds like u need to warm it up, rtm.

It doesn't matter what temp u use.  You have to warm it up for about 15 mins AFTER it reaches the set temp.

I run mine @ 195 and I set a timer for 30 min once I turn on the heater.

If you set it to 200 and your reading 190 you need to wrap the sensor in kapton tape.  You can also test the thermocouple, pour boiling water over the sensor it should read 100C. IMF your still not getting stable temps.  Do a calibration.

As Tim said RTM

Anyway.  No nipple lock is required, it works fine as is.

Ben

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9 Reply by foofoodog

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Re: Nipple twist

Fastrack wrote:

As Tim said RTM

I have and I do all that you have suggested. I am not seeing the same thing you are. That is, I do not see anything that prevents the nipple from threading itself down into the flange once the auger is turning and drags it that way, at least not until it runs out of threads. Thanks.

10 Reply by Fastrack

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Re: Nipple twist

foofoodog wrote:
Fastrack wrote:

As Tim said RTM

I have and I do all that you have suggested. I am not seeing the same thing you are. That is, I do not see anything that prevents the nipple from threading itself down into the flange once the auger is turning and drags it that way, at least not until it runs out of threads. Thanks.

One suggestion that Tim had in the 58 page thread.  Unbolt the flange and rotate it 90 degrees, the hopper ran operate at a 45 degree angle as well.

Ben

Makerbot Replicator 1, Filastruder v1.1 #380 (Kickstarter)
My Thingiverse Designs
Redesigned Electronics Enclosure: Top Vents, Screw down tab
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11 Reply by laird (edited by laird 2013-10-14 06:17:17)

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Re: Nipple twist

I ran into this issue, and I believe it was caused by the plastic not being sufficiently liquid in the barrel, causing the feed screw (auger) to transfer torque through the thick plastic to the barrel; I don't think it has anything to do with the nozzle. Now, based on Tim's instructions, I let it get up to temperature (180), then wait another 15 minutes to let the heat saturate the plastic further down the barrel (i.e. further from the heating element and the thermister), and then it starts smoothly. Since then, no troubles.

Before, I was starting the motor as soon as the thermistor reached the target temperature, and I repeatedly had to rotate the barrel repeatedly to keep the feed hole at the top. And that's pretty irritating - you have to unscrew four bolts and hold the whole assembly together, rotate it 90 or 180 degrees, then bolt it back in place. And I think that's why I was having "washer" problems. After rotating the barrel and/or replacing the washers a few times, I am very happy waiting 15 minutes. Plenty of time to make a good cup of coffee, then come back and flip the motor on.

12 Reply by jdb1930

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Re: Nipple twist

Mine did this and crushed the dowel when the motor got in a bind, I took off the nozzle, while it was still hot and there was a chunk of metal in the blob of plastic right behind the nozzle. I filed everything down real good before starting, but I guess I missed some when cleaning it before use. (5hr into the 8 hr clean out).

13 Reply by foofoodog

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Re: Nipple twist

Yeah, and so while I did the initial run out and have a perfect coil of gray fading to white coil for it, I am not sure this thing is for me. I would rather buy retail filament.  This thing is just too fiddly for me. Too much ramen and fumes for me, and the OSP master batch colors are not working out like I want. So maybe look for it on eBay along with 8 pounds of pellets and master batch, or PM.

14 Reply by coleke

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Re: Nipple twist

Dang, I was hoping this thread had a new imprisoned warrior model from ysb...

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Re: Nipple twist

Getting persistent nipple twist as well, even at 210C... auger extrudes normally for a few seconds then couples to nozzle/barrel. waiting for cool-down and correcting problem is getting to be a royal PIA.
Perhaps it would have helped if the clean-out plastic supplied in the kit had an identifying label.  Is it ABS? If so, wouldn't a more appropriate temperature be 220-230?

16 Reply by elmoret

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Re: Nipple twist

It is ABS (Sabic MG94), which is listed on the kit's product page. 210C is already too hot, you should be extruding at 180-190C. The reason you're thinking 220-230 is that most 3D printer hotends measure the heater temperature, not the nozzle temperature.

Do you have the wooden thrust plate? If so, is the thrust bearing getting pressed into the wood? This will cause binding, as the thrust gets transferred to the motor and pushes it out of axial alignment. The fix is a new harder material thrust plate. If that's the issue, shoot me an email (filastruder@gmail) and we'll get a new thrust plate on the way free of charge.

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17 Reply by foofoodog

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Re: Nipple twist

[email protected] wrote:

Getting persistent nipple twist as well

Not sure it will help as I did this after mine was well broken in but adding imageit's hopper, "pressing" the pieces into place against the flange and fastening the top and bottom with screws seemed to make it a lot more twist resistant. I broke the one piece hopper supplied with the kit  in very short order.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:159388