1 (edited by Nimikin 2013-07-25 21:00:54)

Topic: Serial #260

So, after waiting impatiently, my Filastruder finally arrived. Unfortunately my 3d printer was down, and I had no hopper sad two hours later my printrbot arrived smile I build the printrbot in about 36 hours, a day to get it calibrated, and boom, a hopper is born. Unfortunately, it wasn't calibrated just correctly, because the hopper is just slightly too tight and cracks on assembly. Ok, well I'll print another. Nope, four failed prints later, I decided a little abs glue will be the way to go. Clamp the hopper on, and glue it in place. Score!
       Now I have to wait for it to dry. I decided I liked the look of the enclosure, but the cnc is down at the school, well, I'll just cut one by hand out of some old plywood. I can't cut out tiny holes for the switches with a circular saw. I'll print the faceplate and cut a hole for that! Nope, didn't fit. Designed the faceplate, printed, score! No, too plain, try and open the logo Tim sent me, (via Allen), but I can't open AI files. Ok, back to the drawing board. Wait, someone had a handle/hopper with the logo on thingiverse. Some creative cutting in tinkercad, and voila, new faceplate. Printed. Start wiring. Oops, no red and black wire in the power supply. Ok, well the in insulated wire HAS to be ground. Crap, Internet went out. Can't look that up. Wire it up. Nothing. Ok, well, I wired it for the wrong controller. Try again. Nope, motor turns on backwards. 2 am, bed time.
     Emailed time this morning, he helped me realize that the polarity was reversed on the power supply. Crappy QA. Ok, we'll I can't re crimp the switch connectors, pull out the soldering iron and solder the wires to the switches and connectors, including the motor. Also used heat shrink on the uninsulated HOT wire. Plug it in and bam! Working Filastruder. Then I added a fan in just because, and extended the included fan wires that were too short.
Things to do: Put a top on. Print a hopper funnel (in progress). Clean up the wiring. Figure out a better filament guide.
(P.S. sorry for the length, just wanted it all documented smile )
http://i.imgur.com/toowaL3.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/9tm7UzZ
http://i.imgur.com/f1C79IQ
http://i.imgur.com/48waDU5
http://i.imgur.com/SSR2nmJ

2 (edited by Nimikin 2013-07-25 21:01:03)

Re: Serial #260

Lesson learned: a loud crack followed by no more extrusions, check your washer on the coupler:
http://i.imgur.com/zWZ4FSN

3

Re: Serial #260

Nimikin wrote:

Lesson learned: a loud crack followed by no more extrusions, check your washer on the coupler:

The washer was originally intended as a mechanical fuse, to save the motor if it stalled while also allowing for misalignment. I've run one of them them over 400 hours now.

One user had luck with folding up a strip of paper and using that as the key. I have also had luck using a dowel pin, set in the corner of the square, with the flat side of the motor shaft slid against it.

In hindsight, the better option is probably a PTC fuse set for the stall current, and a dowel pin as described above.

4 (edited by Nimikin 2013-07-25 20:48:44)

Re: Serial #260

I had another washer, just had to take everything apart right quick to get to the coupler. I had cut it with aviation shears, and it twisted pretty well where there were small stress marks from the shears. I cut this one with a dremel. Hopefully it lasts. Going on an hour now with now problems. Thankfully the PID controller instructions were on here, because I too did not get a manual.

5

Re: Serial #260

I would like to use a fuse in line to create an electrical fuse to save the motor.  What type of fuse would I use?  What does PTC mean?

elmoret wrote:
Nimikin wrote:

Lesson learned: a loud crack followed by no more extrusions, check your washer on the coupler:

The washer was originally intended as a mechanical fuse, to save the motor if it stalled while also allowing for misalignment. I've run one of them them over 400 hours now.

One user had luck with folding up a strip of paper and using that as the key. I have also had luck using a dowel pin, set in the corner of the square, with the flat side of the motor shaft slid against it.

In hindsight, the better option is probably a PTC fuse set for the stall current, and a dowel pin as described above.

If it's worth doing, get a proffessional, if it's worth doing right, get me.

6

Re: Serial #260

PTC fuse:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resettable_fuse

A regular fuse does not self reset, it blows once and is done.

Really there's no reason to fuse the motor as long as you don't start it without letting the polymer get up to temp, and you use an appropriate temperature for the polymer you're trying to extrude. Really either of the above can be disregarded if you just hang around the first minute or two of extrusion to turn off the motor if it stalls.

The new motor will trip the overload protection on the power supply before reaching stall current.

7

Re: Serial #260

The 1.3 motor will trip the power supply first?

8

Re: Serial #260

It should, yes. Stall current is 4.5A, when combined with the heater load this will trip the supply. Of course when the heater cycles off this will no longer be the case.

Again, in practice the motor should not be stalling.

9

Re: Serial #260

Yeah, it shouldn't but better safe than sorry smile

10

Re: Serial #260

Absolutely. Next version will do away with the mechanical fuse by using a motor with a square shaft, and a PTC fuse. That's about a month away, though.

11

Re: Serial #260

elmoret wrote:

Absolutely. Next version will do away with the mechanical fuse by using a motor with a square shaft, and a PTC fuse. That's about a month away, though.

Count me in!

12

Re: Serial #260

What are your thoughts on a variable speed motor?  Different speeds for different material.  Or is this taken out of the equation by adjusting temperature?

If it's worth doing, get a proffessional, if it's worth doing right, get me.

13

Re: Serial #260

Why wouldn't you want to extrude as fast as possible?

Stated differently, why would you slow the motor down?

14

Re: Serial #260

Well, lets say you were trying to speed the motor to a slightly faster rpm of say 4 or 5 and with a slightly higher temperature of say 185 to 190 (basing this on the material you are extruding and the quality of the extrusion) You could potentially get more extruded in a shorter time. 

I just wonder if it is worth the effort and cost of making it variable.  Does the set rpm of 2.5 extrude at the most efficient speed?  Would going with a higher rpm have anything to do with increasing the speed of the extrusion at all at this point?  Is it just the temperature of the heating band at this point?  I've read through most of the posts and I see the ramen effect happen because of high temps in conjunction with the type of material being extruded but no mention of the speed of the motor. 

You upgraded the motor on later revisions to go faster.  I wondered what the limit would be on the rpm in regard to the current heating band and setup.  With a variable motor, you could play with it to see exactly how fast you could extrude and still get quality filament.  You obviously did tests to come up with the original motor but then came out with a faster motor later on.  Now that the filastruder has been tested more by different people and different materials and with your idea of a new motor....I was just wondering how far it could go without changing the rest of the extruder.

But slow it down, no.  I'm about trying to speed it up.  I understand about not leaving the extruder running unattended but having it set up in the workshop and just staying in the workshop all day to get a spool of filament doesn't work with my work habits.  I can't babysit the machine and I can't leave it.  I'd rather start it, work on a project for 4 hours or so and then stop it and have a spool of filament.  Maybe its just too early in developement as a process to get that kind of speed from a DIY system.  I can live with small bits of filament until then but I may have to work on a fussion splicer.

If it's worth doing, get a proffessional, if it's worth doing right, get me.

15

Re: Serial #260

You can't speed it up without overheating the motor, at least not by much.

The heater band and other parts are not a limiting factor until you talk about quadrupling throughput.

Power scales with the cube of flowrate.

I wouldn't say you need to babysit it, just peek in on it every now and again.

16

Re: Serial #260

I turn mine on and let it go overnight and all day without any supervision other than all the people in the house know to shut it off it they see ramen or if the machine is making funny noises.
It normally runs for 30 to 40 hours without stopping.