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Topic: brass barrel

Hi everyone i got a question i was trying to clean the brass barrel of my solidoodle 2 and i broke it and I'm trying to get a new one from the company but they don't sell them can someone HELP me to get one or any ideas to replace it with other one thank you.

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Re: brass barrel

http://www.makergear.com/products/plast … ment-parts

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Re: brass barrel

Thank you do i need to do something special with it and do i need 3mm or 1.75mm

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Re: brass barrel

tapoutms wrote:

do i need 3mm or 1.75mm

Well gee golly gosh, what size filament are you using?

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Re: brass barrel

elmoret wrote:
tapoutms wrote:

do i need 3mm or 1.75mm

Well gee golly gosh, what size filament are you using?

1.82mm :-p

SD3 w/ mods:
Glass bed with QU-BD heat pad upgrade, threadless ballscrew w/ 8mm smooth rod, spectra line belt replacement, lawsy MK5 extruder, Lawsy replacement carriage, E3D hotend, Ramps 1.4 w/ reprap discount controller, DRV8825 drivers, 12v 30A PS, Acrylic case, Overkill Y-idlers, Filament alarm, Extruder fan + more.

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Re: brass barrel

I'm using 1.75mm

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Re: brass barrel

Hey Tapoutms, you need 1.75 to match your filament smile

2n2r5, you seem to be a little swelled up  wink

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Re: brass barrel

and if i buy that can i still use my original  heat core and the original nozzle from my solidoodle 2 or do i need to buy something else and thank you for Helping me

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Re: brass barrel

Should be a drop in replacement part... from what I have read..... however I haven't had to change any of mine.... so....

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Re: brass barrel

Thank you guy's for the Help

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Re: brass barrel

I can confirm.  It is a drop in replacement.  I've used both the 1.75 and 3 mm barrel sizes.  Doesn't seem to make much difference unless you've got a lot of variation in filament size.

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Re: brass barrel

i don't think they have anymore in stock.. for 1.75
unless OP bought the last one

Solidoodle2 with Ceramic tile heated bed http://www.soliforum.com/topic/2544/my- … eated-bed/
"1kg should last for an while" is a lie!

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Re: brass barrel

Solidoodle informed me that if you unscrew the brass barrel from the peek insulator you ruin the threads and it will leak when you reassemble it. I think they are trying to sell more hot ends.

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Re: brass barrel

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thread_seal_tape
guess what.. PTFE! B*tch!

Solidoodle2 with Ceramic tile heated bed http://www.soliforum.com/topic/2544/my- … eated-bed/
"1kg should last for an while" is a lie!

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Re: brass barrel

mikefree41 wrote:

Solidoodle informed me that if you unscrew the brass barrel from the peek insulator you ruin the threads and it will leak when you reassemble it. I think they are trying to sell more hot ends.

The PEEK retainer gets up to glass transition temp during normal operations. The threads are ruined in most cases. When we used to provide people the barrel, we saw all manner of mishaps including leaking barrels, snapped barrels during assembly etc.. while the barrel might work for some, there is an equal chance it might not fit into a used PEAK retainer leaving Solidoodle in the wrong for providing a part that doesn't work. In general we are trying to get people away from taking apart, or assembling their hot-ends. The Solidoodle hot-end is fairly fragile, and we have seen many instances of Solidoodle users breaking theirs in attempts to repair it. We know from (unfortunate) experience that the hot-ends can be tricky to build, so we try to make sure everyone gets a solution that works for them the first time.

For similar reasons, we generally do not recommend that users remove their nozzles either. Many users can manage removing the nozzle, but the parts that make up the hot-end are soft, and we have seen plenty of examples of users breaking parts when they were meaning to fix them. Generally speaking, it is much safer to remove the nozzle off a fresh hot-end than a thoroughly used one. If you're experienced with machines, go for it. I'm sure many forum readers have no problem popping off the nozzle, but for many newer Solidoodle users it can be a recipe for breaking things.

Former Solidoodle employee, no longer associated with the company.

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Re: brass barrel

Maybe it's time for a more robust hot end. $59 for a new hot end if you get a plugged nozzle seems a bit, HMMM, expensive! Now I just took mine apart and put it back together fine but like you said some of the people out there may not be able to pull it off. I just happen to be a retired mechanical engineer raised by a watchmaker father so I have the time, tools and patience to do it.

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Re: brass barrel

Buy the e3d hot end.  It is the 'more robust hot end' you are looking for.

If you want, you can machine it yourself. The drawings are released on the web.

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Re: brass barrel

Thanks. You know this is the best and most helpful forum I have ever seen.

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Re: brass barrel

mikefree41 wrote:

Maybe it's time for a more robust hot end. $59 for a new hot end if you get a plugged nozzle seems a bit, HMMM, expensive! Now I just took mine apart and put it back together fine but like you said some of the people out there may not be able to pull it off. I just happen to be a retired mechanical engineer raised by a watchmaker father so I have the time, tools and patience to do it.

You never know what we're working on smile Seriously, we understand the shortcoming of the current design. Look out for cool things in the future.

Former Solidoodle employee, no longer associated with the company.

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Re: brass barrel

I also snapped my barrel a couple days ago trying to unclog a jam after running machine for one day (and being careful to keep the temp off when not extruding).  I didn't want to pay for a new one and I wanted it quickly so I tried machining my own using these directions: vik-olliver.blogspot.com/2010/02/drilling-down-middle.html (absolutely brilliant!).  I was able to drill a perfectly centered bore through an M6 bolt using just a drill press!

I have a couple questions: 1) The barrel that broke had about a 3.5mm ID.  This seemed a little big for the 1.75mm filament I am using from Solidoodle.  I drilled the new one at about 2.5 mm.  Was this a good idea or bad?  Should it be even smaller (like 2mm)?  2) The new barrel is made from regular steel, not brass.  Is that good or bad?

So far it is working, but I only used it for about an hour.  We'll see if I get another clog.

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Re: brass barrel

Are you sure the old barrel had a 3.5mm ID? It should have a 2mm ID or mayyybbbee 2.5.  A 3.5mm interior would allow the filament to bend...

If you're at 2.5mm you have a few options. See how well that works. OR, if you can devise a way to restrain the tubing *that will try and pop out* you can drill to 4mm and insert a 4mm OD 2mm ID teflon tubing that will make the barrel less jam prone. But you need a clever way of preventing the very substantial desire for the tubing to jump up. Some people on Qu-Bd used this as a solution for the Qu-Bd extruder that jams easier on account of its steel barrel.

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Re: brass barrel

It is definitely 3.5 mm barrel as shipped with the sd3.  Why does steel jam more than brass?  I think I will re-drill at 2mm if I get another clog.