26 Reply by johnforeman

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Re: Solidoodle 3-two questions

fadilee wrote:

I tried to print a part with a long slot. The slot did not come out good because the roof of the slot collapsed into the slot's cavity. How do I prevent this from happening? Will Support Structures help? If I turn the Support Structures option on will Slic3r automatically know that the slot needs that? Please see the attached image.


Can you lay the part on its side (rotate 90) and print it?  This would avoid th e bridge for the slot.  It's hard to tell frm the picture if the part can be rotated.

27 Reply by solijohn

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Re: Solidoodle 3-two questions

johnforeman wrote:
fadilee wrote:

I tried to print a part with a long slot. The slot did not come out good because the roof of the slot collapsed into the slot's cavity. How do I prevent this from happening? Will Support Structures help? If I turn the Support Structures option on will Slic3r automatically know that the slot needs that? Please see the attached image.


Can you lay the part on its side (rotate 90) and print it?  This would avoid th e bridge for the slot.  It's hard to tell frm the picture if the part can be rotated.

Yes, print it on the side if possible.

Former Solidoodle employee, no longer associated with the company.

28 Reply by cckens

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Re: Solidoodle 3-two questions

Yes, support will be added to all areas where there are overhangs.  You'll take a hit in cleaning it up after the fact, but it should make it a little cleaner and remove the droopy overhangs.

29 Reply by 2n2r5

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Re: Solidoodle 3-two questions

Adding a fan modification is your best chance. You can also play with the "bridging" settings like travel speed and flow rate in slicer.

SD3 w/ mods:
Glass bed with QU-BD heat pad upgrade, threadless ballscrew w/ 8mm smooth rod, spectra line belt replacement, lawsy MK5 extruder, Lawsy replacement carriage, E3D hotend, Ramps 1.4 w/ reprap discount controller, DRV8825 drivers, 12v 30A PS, Acrylic case, Overkill Y-idlers, Filament alarm, Extruder fan + more.

2n2r5's Website

30 Reply by fadilee

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Re: Solidoodle 3-two questions

I can't print the part on its side. If I do so I will have more over hangs. sad

I printed the part with Support Structures but cleaning the Support Structures was more work than removing the droopy overhangs!

I am going to play with the fan speed tomorrow to see if that helps.

Can someone help me with the "bridging" settings? What's that? A link to a tutorial would be good too. smile

Thanks a bunch!

31 Reply by IanJohnson

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Re: Solidoodle 3-two questions

Under speed there is a setting for bridges.  Set that a little faster than the rest of the speeds.  In Advanced there is a field for Bridge Flow Rate.  Set that a little lower, like .8.   The idea is that you want the thread to be a little stretched over the bridge so it stays tight, especially as it cools.  Slower speed and more flow gives the plastic a chance to droop.

The other thing you can do is add a wall on the edge of the opening that is 1-2 threads thick, .42mm-.84mm.  The slicer might be smart enough to use that as a support and draw the fill across the short gap rather than a long gap.  The support wall would peel away easily when done and be less work than filling the whole space with support material.

32 Reply by 2n2r5 (edited by 2n2r5 2013-07-25 05:21:34)

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Re: Solidoodle 3-two questions

I attached a file that I use to test my bridging settings.

The main places to adjust your bridging controls in slic3r:

Print Settings Tab:

Speed > Speed for print moves  > Bridges = (75mm/s is default) Try to bump this up by 5 mm/s at a time

Advanced > Flow > Bridge Flow Ratio = (.75 or 75% is default) Try lowering this .05/5% at a time

If you have a G-code controlled fan on the extruder then you can alter the following:

Filament Settings Tab:

Cooling > Enable Auto Cooling = Checked
Cooling > Fan Settings > Bridges Fan Speed = (100% is default) shouldn't need to change this but feel free to expeirement

SD3 w/ mods:
Glass bed with QU-BD heat pad upgrade, threadless ballscrew w/ 8mm smooth rod, spectra line belt replacement, lawsy MK5 extruder, Lawsy replacement carriage, E3D hotend, Ramps 1.4 w/ reprap discount controller, DRV8825 drivers, 12v 30A PS, Acrylic case, Overkill Y-idlers, Filament alarm, Extruder fan + more.

2n2r5's Website

33 Reply by fadilee

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Re: Solidoodle 3-two questions

Thank you both. I tried different settings but nothing helped so I decided to redesign the slot to two smaller slots than one big one. I will reprint it tomorrow to see how that works out.

Do you know why don't I get smooth surfaces? All my surfaces, especially around corners have little ABS droplets, or looks like as if the layers are being merged into each other. I don't know how to explain it other than it's a "blemish" in the surfaces.

34 Reply by 2n2r5

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Re: Solidoodle 3-two questions

Post a picture ... could be anything from over extrusion or excess z-wobble or retraction settings for layer starts.

SD3 w/ mods:
Glass bed with QU-BD heat pad upgrade, threadless ballscrew w/ 8mm smooth rod, spectra line belt replacement, lawsy MK5 extruder, Lawsy replacement carriage, E3D hotend, Ramps 1.4 w/ reprap discount controller, DRV8825 drivers, 12v 30A PS, Acrylic case, Overkill Y-idlers, Filament alarm, Extruder fan + more.

2n2r5's Website