Topic: Printing solid parts with SD2
Hi ya all!
Just registered, as i just got my Sd2 working. Printed few parts and noticed that they are very, well... unsolid. Trying to figure out how to print solid parts. Anyone want to help a newbie?
Re: Printing solid parts with SD2
Set the infill to 1. This is 100%. .2 is the default at 20%. Depending on the application of the part, you shouldn't need more than 50% (.5)-75% (.75) as these are pretty solid. Lower settings also help save plastic.
Re: Printing solid parts with SD2
Changed infill to 1 and still not solid...
Re: Printing solid parts with SD2
i had to set to 1.0 dont forget to click save in slicer
- Hunter Green
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Re: Printing solid parts with SD2
More specifically you have to set the infill to 1, save that (possibly into a new profile name -- this is likely a good idea), select that profile, and slice again.
Re: Printing solid parts with SD2
hehe, now its solid. For some reason it seems that the natural ABS i have doesn't melt properly, i changed to green and boy it works well now!
7 2013-07-18 13:31:10 (edited by adrian 2013-07-18 14:03:26)
Re: Printing solid parts with SD2
Just like the old Castrol Ads that said "Oils aint Oils", well, "ABSs aint ABSs".... 
ABS Filament is made from raw pellets extruded into a filament. The composition and thermal properties of those pellets along with any masterbatch (colorant pellets) added dictate the performance of the resulting ABS Filament. This is why 'premium' ABS is often more expensive, but genuinely tends to outperform (in flow rate, set-point temp, etc) 'cheaper' filament. Whilst adding a contaminant (such as masterbatch) should you'd imagine increase the thermal envelope you need to work within, Natural ABS from various sources often needs a higher temp than a colored one. Go Figure 
I know for example elmoret is very rapt in Sabic's MG94, which I'm lead to believe is also what Stratsys Branded ABS is manufactured from. Using that filament, elmoret is achieving some of the highest print speeds that have been published and backed up with settings
Long waffling story short... ABS from different manufacturers, and even different colors or compositions or batches from the same manufacturer, can have very differing temp requirements. The 'rules of thumb' we use of say 190-200°C on the solidoodle (220-235°C 'actual') are just that - rules of thumb - and you are always going to need to 'tweak' the temp for each and every filament... I have a Filament setting for virtually every spool I have as they are all 'slightly' different in their thermal and mechanical elements (size, multiplier, temps).