Hello from NJ

I started by printing small calibration cubes and changing settings until everything looked right. There are a lot of things that you need to calibrate at first, but then it gets easier once you know what setting changes what in the end. #1 I would check the bottom of the print, if it looks like a bunch of beads on a string, your extruder tip is too close to the print bed, and if it looks stringy and keeps lifting off the bed or not sticking to the other threads on the same layer then your extruder tip is to far away, you can correct this by raising/lowering the screw on the back of the inside of the machine that presses the switch when you home it. Also if the first layer of a print with large surface area is thin in some spots and thick/not sticking in other spots then you should relevel you bed with a dial gauge or by slipping a piece of paper between the extruder tip and the bed in various spots. It is also important to measure the diameter of your filament with a micrometer in several spots and set that average as the setting in slic3r, from what everyone says it should be within .1mm. Lastly you should run the PID calibration. It is very simple just type into google "solidoodle 3 PID calibration" and the page on the wiki should come up.

The solidoodle printer reads about 30 degrees LESS than what is actually in the hotend!!! SO if you want to melt at 220 degrees you have to minus 30 off that and set the software to 190.

The software in the printer is saving you from a meltdown by giving you this error, hopefully it hasn't overheated the peek insulator(black part of the hotend)

Just found my own answer!  The G-Code has the temperature embedded, so I tweaked the ASCII version and will try again to print.  If this works, then I'll figure out where the slicer has the temp setting and fix it there too.