My first prints with the SD3

looking good, very impressive

I received some questions about my prints that I'd like to address below.

The dial indicator mount is courtesy of Ian Johnson and is on Thingiverse here.
My indicator is the same as most people's, which can be purchased on Amazon for $40.  Link
The mount also requires magnets that can be found here
(All links courtesy of Ian Johnson as well via the Thingiverse link)

I have yet to calibrate the roundness of my parts, and I'm fairly sure that if I did print a purely circular part that it would be slightly off.  Solidoodle released a video on how to calibrate this that I cannot seem to find at the moment.

Finally, the elliptical gears can be found on Thingiverse here.

I think you're looking for:
http://wiki.solidoodle.com/belt-adjustment

Also , those parts look pretty darn good if you ask me.

Its for leveling the bed..

//Matte

Make sure you understand the process for presto and use proper ventilation or protection.

Quick question:  What else can be used on the bottom of the basket instead of Kapton (as well as glass and metal)?

I could probably get a piece of glass cut to fit, but I am curious if any other kind of tape or other substance would hold up just as well if not better.

I kinda botched the bottom of my boat with the holes in the basket. It came out pretty good though!

Edit:  I ended up giving foil a shot and it seemed to work fine.  It stuck to the part a bit but as it dried it no longer stuck.

I seem to have encountered an issue similar to the one I posted in another thread.  The pictures will show the implications of sparse infill and higher (0.2 mm) resolution printing.

It is not required, although it does make leveling the bed more accurate. There are several methods that people are using for leveling the beds. You can also use a piece of paper to check for bed level and height adjustment. Search the forum or review the wiki's for the different setup methods. In order to use the dial indicator, you will need to print the mount of your choosing. (Either the one for the stock jigsaw or the one that fits the mk4) therefore you will probably want to use the paper method first. Before you start printing I would recommend homing your printer then manually moving your print head around the entire bed to make sure it doesn't strike the bed before your first print job. That way you won't have a head crash that could mess up your first print or rip your kapton.

These are turning out great, have you had any issue with curling since you built the enclosure and started using glass?

I've had far fewer issues with curling because of these two things.  I would highly recommend them.  The only other thing to look out for is how your first layer is laid down (z spot height), but I've noticed that I can get away with less squishing of the first layer than I used to.

(Oh and for the SD3, you can get 8" mirror plates at Walmart for about $4 or so in the candle section.  Unfortunately they are beveled at the edges, but I am looking to get some actual 8" pieces of glass soon.)

The frog is made of ABS.  See here

Those 1/4" round magnets are awesome. I have used them in quite a few printed projects now. I have another 40 on the way. I would recommend that anyone that has a 3D printer get a set of those magnets and a set of misc springs.

Boz,

I have a question about the gear bearing. Does it turn well. I try to print this one and the gear get stick together. I will put a photo.

thingiverse n°53451

I have :
- solidoodle 2
- ABS 1.75mm
- repetier v0.85b

What parameters could I change in order to avoid sticking

Thanks

Raph