To Solidoodle, or Not to Solidoodle (Page 1 of 2)

Also, loving this community. The Hacks and Mods section really convinces me to go with the solidoodle. Im hoping to be convinced soon enough so I can type in my Credit Card before tonight's end.

I went through the same debate.  Slept on it and bought the next day (April 6th).  The "orders shipping" thread makes it look like the current average time to ship is about 5-6 weeks so I should have mine in a week or two.

I certainly expect the occasional headache getting it to work just right but this forum has given me the confidence that whatever might break can be fixed and I can ask questions till my hearts content (search first).

I've done CAD for years and have been getting used to Creo Elements (free) recently in preparation for making models.

I do however need to go through the threads and gather all of the "getting started" stuff I can find - including the mandatory "print these parts first in case something breaks"

Between your own work and the forum...potential upgrades are nearly limitless...and the price is essentially unbeatable.

Hope you enjoy your (soon-to-be-ordered) solidoodle.  We'll be around if you need anything.

-DGT

I've had my SD3 since last Thursday, and I can confirm that the bed temperature exceeds 87C.  I'm currently running it at 95C, but I haven't tried to push it any higher.

I'll leave the filament feeder details to someone more experienced - same with the new bed but it seems ok so far.  Yup - have to say that 0.05mm is my eventual goal after I get success with normal resolutions.  I'm not sure if the SD2's are getting the new bed or not - haven't heard any news on that one.

I cant even imagine all the possibilities.

Also Ive spent forever trying to find Solidoodle printed screws/threading, or a suggestion of a workaround. as said this is for prototyping and inventing, screws will be needed, and im having trouble finding anything relevant.

Searching gives a million false positives with keywords "printed" "screw"

Elmoret, that is something I as well have been considering. Any possibility of links? Dont wanna get the wrong thing

Why do you want to print threads?

QU-BD only sells one 6" heated bed
Any powersupply with 12v and at least 18A will do fine. I got a 12v 41a powersupply for $12 (converted a server PSU).
Any glass is fine, I think mine's 1/8" thick

Only legitimate problems for ordering a new Solidoodle in my opinion are:

1. Rubbish cheap heating resistors failing - Super cheap to replace yourself if you can solder, order them to have on standby.
2. Rubbish cheap connectors failing - Again, cheap and easy to fix if you can solder/crimp.
3. New bed resistor limited to a very slow heatup and 87deg - This is a deal breaker for me unless someone was confident enough to change it over straight away.
4. Questionable support from Solidoodle - They seem to get there eventually, but users are more likely to find timely advice on the forums, especially if they search.
5. Fragile/fiddly jigsaw extruder - print a free replacement as your first print.

http://www.soliforum.com/topic/1185/pow … 0w-for-12/

Plastic doesn't hold threads well. Most people model a hole and use a screw, or drop a nut in.

May I ask what you all use your printer for?

This is the approach I went for:

http://www.soliforum.com/topic/1819/hea … isonsstls/

You can see from the graphs in that thread how bad the new 87deg heating pad is. I went with the custom PCB but the QU-BD bed was very similar. If you print the parts in that thread, it becomes fairly straightforward to do the upgrade.

Took them 3 weeks to ship two hotends I ordered in April.

I know I had the same issue in April. I literally had it in 3 days after I called them. I'm not sure if it's the ranting posts or emails that I have sent in the past but the new hotend I got has a bigger resistor in it and a different thermal past holding it in place.