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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Solidoodle Discussion → SD3 - Long heating time for Bed heating
Hi,
My SD3 took over 1 hours for bed heating (room temperature around 26C with no aircondition and fan running), bed temperature will never go over 87.20C, it took about 15 minutes to reach 64C, and addition 1 hour to reach 87C. Please advise if this is normal?
Thanks.
P/S: I also noticed the bed is not flat.
I'm still a newbie and I was told it is very normal. To fix it, you need some kind of enclosure. Even just putting on cardboard sides with duct tape will be enough, though most people build a more attractive one from things like plexiglas. There are several threads with pictures and plans here.
Even with an enclosure, it takes mine an hour and a half to get to full heat. I can reduce this somewhat by heating it with a washcloth over it.
Levelling the bed is a typical first thing you need to adjust. That and setting the Z level.
Check the sticky posts for a list of these typical first steps and modifications.
Some of the newer models have a different type of bed heater with a limit of around 86-87C.
Main reason I am upgrading my heater to a QUBD.
Smitty
http://www.soliforum.com/topic/1306/cus … osure-mod/
Cheaper option for the party tray top:
http://www.amazon.com/Clear-11-Square-P … astic+Tray (Price isn't cheaper, but price + shipping is.
Also for the insulating of the heated bed during warm up, try a washcloth with a piece of cardboard on top, or a hardback book. Pot holders also work well.
What would be the minimum temp required for the print to stick properly? would 70C work? or do we really have to wait until the bed is 87C before i can print?
I've settled on 82C, using a glass bed and hairspray. No problems so far, except for laziness about cleaning and re-spraying...
I played with lowering to 80C a little and it was a problem.
I got around 85C minimum, hot end is not more thickness of a receipt paper from printing bed, but my print does not stick, i tried both with or without glass?
The filament was dragged by the hot end when printing. just checked my hot-end calibration, I do have about 25% higher feed rate. Would that be the cause?
try some hair spray
Yep, hair spray is the key - cheap Aqua Net works great here.
Also I've never cleaned the hairspray from mine, and hardly ever reapply anymore. I'll give it a fresh coat if I am printing something wide and flat and think it will be a challenge. It seems to me that a plate will get seasoned after a bunch of prints. Maybe the ABS residue, or whatever the shadow of a previous print is made of, helps the next one stick.
If I'm impatient I'll start a print after it passes 70c. It's enough for the first layer to stick, and I figure it will be hotter by the time the heat is really needed.
Also I've never cleaned the hairspray from mine, and hardly ever reapply anymore. I'll give it a fresh coat if I am printing something wide and flat and think it will be a challenge. It seems to me that a plate will get seasoned after a bunch of prints. Maybe the ABS residue, or whatever the shadow of a previous print is made of, helps the next one stick.
If I'm impatient I'll start a print after it passes 70c. It's enough for the first layer to stick, and I figure it will be hotter by the time the heat is really needed.
Theory: The hairspray is more about surface area than actual stickiness.
Theory: The hairspray is more about surface area than actual stickiness.
How does hairspray increase surface area? 
The hairspray creates texture that the plastic can grip. The glass is too smooth by itself and makes it hard for the plastic to grip.
solidoodlesupport wrote:Theory: The hairspray is more about surface area than actual stickiness.
How does hairspray increase surface area?
The hairspray creates texture that the plastic can grip. The glass is too smooth by itself and makes it hard for the plastic to grip.
surface area on a tiny scale. if you could zoom in you would see millions of tiny bumps from the hairspray and that helps it stick, at least I think that's what they mean.
Do you need hairspray without a glass bed?
Arcadenut wrote:solidoodlesupport wrote:Theory: The hairspray is more about surface area than actual stickiness.
How does hairspray increase surface area?
The hairspray creates texture that the plastic can grip. The glass is too smooth by itself and makes it hard for the plastic to grip.
surface area on a tiny scale. if you could zoom in you would see millions of tiny bumps from the hairspray and that helps it stick, at least I think that's what they mean.
Indeed - the same reason a Spider can climb a vertical wall (it has millions of 'points of contact' due to the microscopic hairs on its legs, thus has a higher Surface-to-Surface Contact Ratio allowing it to 'defy gravity' due to its massive surface-contact area despite its mass)
I believe a better way to describe it would be the same - it increases the Surface-to-Surface Contact Ratio (which whilst yes denotes an increased surface *area*, the area isn't as important as creating multiple points of contact versus one larger one).
frozensoda wrote:Arcadenut wrote:How does hairspray increase surface area?
The hairspray creates texture that the plastic can grip. The glass is too smooth by itself and makes it hard for the plastic to grip.
surface area on a tiny scale. if you could zoom in you would see millions of tiny bumps from the hairspray and that helps it stick, at least I think that's what they mean.
Indeed - the same reason a Spider can climb a vertical wall (it has millions of 'points of contact' due to the microscopic hairs on its legs, thus has a higher Surface-to-Surface Contact Ratio allowing it to 'defy gravity' due to its massive surface-contact area despite its mass)
I believe a better way to describe it would be the same - it increases the Surface-to-Surface Contact Ratio (which whilst yes denotes an increased surface *area*, the area isn't as important as creating multiple points of contact versus one larger one).
Ok, I can go with that 
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