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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Solidoodle Discussion → Anyone going to upgrade to aluminum?
I am talking about the new platforms Solidoodle has started using.
Some people are getting then on their new printers, I'm thinking of it, but maybe not, I might machine my own.
Haven't seen them on the webpage yet though.
You should add a 'under consideration' option 
Waiting on a replacement wooden bed platform - but given the wait I'm facing, I'm contemplating knocking a metal one up soon myself.
when you said build platform I thought bed, and I already upgraded from aluminium to glass...
the wooden table that holds the bed though... not sure, for the SD2 wood seems good enough (even with the thick sheet of glass I have mounted to it)...
If it breaks then I'll upgrade to a metal support, either buying one or making my own... otherwise.... I don't see a lot of benefit in ripping my printer apart to fix something that's not broken (yet?)
I'm wondering if there is anything different about the way it mates with the threaded rod, if they built in any kind of backlash prevention. Sam had Kendall's anti-backlash thing installed on a printer he demo'd in an interview, so they were definitely looking into it.
I was already planning on having one made from aluminum. If it is cheaper to upgrade from them, then I will upgrade. Otherwise I will have my friend make it.
After I get my CNC mill (mydiycnc.com) I may just machine my own.
I hope my SD2 expert comes with the Aluminium Bed support, ordered 6 days ago..?
Nice little CNC milling bot...
Just curious, how is this an upgrade? Are you guys all having problems with the wooden bed frame? Do you expect it to improve your print quality in some way? I can see that metal would not be subject to warping due to humidity but it seems to me the only improvement would be a need to calibrate less often. Is there any other benefit?
Just an update, I'll be receiving an Alu bed platform in a few weeks to replace the failed bearings on my wooden one. Will be sure to advise how it goes.
And to answer why it's an upgrade, it offers a more sturdy platform without flex, and given I reside in a climate that can go from 5oC in the morning to 30oC at lunchtime, I'm hoping less warping and other ambient temperature related issues.
Nice little CNC milling bot...
Thanks, looking forward to it, decent price too.
Just curious, how is this an upgrade?
IT'S ALUMINUM!!!!!
And to answer why it's an upgrade, it offers a more sturdy platform without flex, and given I reside in a climate that can go from 5oC in the morning to 30oC at lunchtime, I'm hoping less warping and other ambient temperature related issues.
Then there's that too.
I saw in the Facebook post that people have been receiving the aluminum platforms with recent orders.
What do you think the cost will be for us who bought early and have a wooden bed?
After I get my CNC mill (mydiycnc.com) I may just machine my own.
just a couple of things.
I've made a desktopmill almost exactly like this one as a fun project a few years ago. (but with manual rather than CNC controls)
Same aluminium box construction, a clamp holding a dremel type tool...
the thing would have struggled cutting butter, you ever notice how videos of these things always show them cutting that Oasis/floral foam stuff? it's a good tool for making foam moulds (if I wanted to do lost foam casting)
it's a great tool if I wanted to make something for a model aeroplane from balsa wood.
to say that the FAQ on the site is a little optimistic is an understatement.
What are material restrictions for this mill? Will it be able to machine metals? If yes, up to what hardness?
The short answer to your question is "Yes". This is a common question but, however, one that doesn't have an exact answer.
The reason is that with the right end mill, correct speed and cutting depth you can mill almost any material. The DIY Desktop CNC Machine has sufficient power to snap off the bit before it would get stalled out. The "harder" the material the smaller the depth you take from it on each pass.
Sure if you want to remove half a gnat's pube sized slither of aluminium at each pass it'll probably cut aluminium, but the idea of cutting other metals is just a fantasy! the motors that move the gantry might be strong enough, but the dremel tool motor will likely stall.
I've no experience with these particular machines, but if I were you I'd ask them for a video of the machine actually cutting aluminium before you put money into it in the hopes that it can do that.
(if you want to see pictures of my home made milling machine they are here
The second thing is, to make a folded metal aluminium sheet you really want a press brake, of a vice, two blocks of wood and a hammer. it's not really a CNC task.
They actually have a video of it milling aluminum. Slowly, mind you, as there is no coolant spray to protect from overheating.
Edit:
0:45 - 1:04 desribeds exactly what I'm talking about, you see the tool move along the platform, yet, where is the cut? is it just so shallow that you can't see it? 1:58 shows it cutting a bit faster
you can see how small the part is that they are cutting when they use a hoover to clear up the chips, it's pretty tiny, you're talking about removing half a milimeter of material each pass, 1:45 - 2:15 shows how long it takes to cut a line that's about half the width of one of those hoover attachments.
You're looking at a cutting speed of 40mm per minute then for aluminium.
if I were you I'd save money.
buy a proper manual milling machine like this:
http://www.proxxon-tools.com/tools/Prox … --919.html (around $400)
then retro fit CNC using any number of the kits/plans designed for use with proxon mills, in fact owning a 3d printer will make this even easier since you can fabricate a lot of fixtures and fittings yourself!
Then you'll have a real mill, capable of doing real work, at a decent speed.
Someone should make alum platforms designed for glass plates
Someone should make alum platforms designed for glass plates
And make it so it will also accommodate an upgraded heated bed under the glass. 
I have a CNC converted minimill, might have to make one.
Smitty
pcpoirier wrote:Someone should make alum platforms designed for glass plates
And make it so it will also accommodate an upgraded heated bed under the glass.
I have a CNC converted minimill, might have to make one.
Smitty
What do you guys mean by "accommodates glass" ? The current metal bed should be able to have glass clipped to it as usual.
What do you guys mean by "accommodates glass" ? The current metal bed should be able to have glass clipped to it as usual.
I believe in the first instance, they are suggesting some sort of "lipped" or otherwise recessed main area that enabled glass to be placed without need for clips.
In the second instance (heat bed under glass) they are referring to the pockets that would need to be added to the surface to enable a QU-BD silicone bed with its 'bulges' to fit under the glass.. as well as the glass still having the lipped surround to negate the need for clips (and thus, risk of striking the extruder in rapids etc...)
solidoodlesupport wrote:What do you guys mean by "accommodates glass" ? The current metal bed should be able to have glass clipped to it as usual.
I believe in the first instance, they are suggesting some sort of "lipped" or otherwise recessed main area that enabled glass to be placed without need for clips.
In the second instance (heat bed under glass) they are referring to the pockets that would need to be added to the surface to enable a QU-BD silicone bed with its 'bulges' to fit under the glass.. as well as the glass still having the lipped surround to negate the need for clips (and thus, risk of striking the extruder in rapids etc...)
Sounds like a great idea and another option/variant for SD to market.
adrian wrote:solidoodlesupport wrote:What do you guys mean by "accommodates glass" ? The current metal bed should be able to have glass clipped to it as usual.
I believe in the first instance, they are suggesting some sort of "lipped" or otherwise recessed main area that enabled glass to be placed without need for clips.
In the second instance (heat bed under glass) they are referring to the pockets that would need to be added to the surface to enable a QU-BD silicone bed with its 'bulges' to fit under the glass.. as well as the glass still having the lipped surround to negate the need for clips (and thus, risk of striking the extruder in rapids etc...)
Sounds like a great idea and another option/variant for SD to market.
As always, if demand is demonstrated to be sufficient, we'll look in to it.
iowajames wrote:adrian wrote:I believe in the first instance, they are suggesting some sort of "lipped" or otherwise recessed main area that enabled glass to be placed without need for clips.
In the second instance (heat bed under glass) they are referring to the pockets that would need to be added to the surface to enable a QU-BD silicone bed with its 'bulges' to fit under the glass.. as well as the glass still having the lipped surround to negate the need for clips (and thus, risk of striking the extruder in rapids etc...)
Sounds like a great idea and another option/variant for SD to market.
As always, if demand is demonstrated to be sufficient, we'll look in to it.
I think that if SD implements a recessed area to fit a 6x6 or 8x8 (depending on the model) piece of glass and provides a nicely fit piece of glass or two (all as an option) it would be a wise business move. Everyone knows about the glass mod, but who markets their printer with the option for a clip-less glass insert on the bed? Then when fresh blood starts in on the 3D printer scene & someone mentions the glass bed mod, they will say, "Oh, like the Solidoodle has?" Basically, you never have to claim to invent the idea, but it will become something associated with SD due to it's "out of the box" incorporation. Does that make sense?
It does to me & that's all that matters!
A simple alternative is to make the alum plate bigger and recess that.
solidoodlesupport wrote:iowajames wrote:Sounds like a great idea and another option/variant for SD to market.
As always, if demand is demonstrated to be sufficient, we'll look in to it.
I think that if SD implements a recessed area to fit a 6x6 or 8x8 (depending on the model) piece of glass and provides a nicely fit piece of glass or two (all as an option) it would be a wise business move. Everyone knows about the glass mod, but who markets their printer with the option for a clip-less glass insert on the bed? Then when fresh blood starts in on the 3D printer scene & someone mentions the glass bed mod, they will say, "Oh, like the Solidoodle has?" Basically, you never have to claim to invent the idea, but it will become something associated with SD due to it's "out of the box" incorporation. Does that make sense?
It does to me & that's all that matters!
Step by step kimosabe! We'll take a look at it as we monitor the progress of the new bed design. Not many of our users are using glass (it's more like the elite/hardcore subset thing to do.) so we don't see a glass based bed as being a huge priority. Maybe though.
As you all know, we have a few other projects in the pipe line.
We should have the platform in the store this week.
Those of you who end up with the aluminum platform, let us know:
1) Did you receive it intact? Did it survive shipping well?
2) Did you have an easy time installing it (N/a if you bought a new printer with the feature)
3) Was there a noticeable difference in print quality?
The main point of the change is that the bed survives shipping far better, and frankly looks much nicer.
I would imagine that the new bed also handles extreme temperature changes better in not affecting bed level/height.
Btw: have you ever seen the farside cartoon about the lone ranger
I was actually working on the new heated bed mod for my Solidoodle 2 earlier this week. I used it as a chance to test my new SX3 mill. All that is left is to pull the old table and match the hole pattern.
I took a 3/8" piece of aluminum bar stock that was 7" wide and cut a series of recesses into the plate. These recesses are for the QU-BD bed wiring and the extra material for the wire connections on the bottom side. I milled some finger recesses for the plate on the corners, which also provides the 'square' corners needed for the 6" glass plates I use.
I attached a picture below where I was testing power supply.
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