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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Solidoodle Discussion → Print not sticking
I've calibrated everything (I think)
And I start my prints at 195/95
But it always seems that 1/8-1/4 of the way through the print lifts off of my Kapton and wants to run free. Any Ideas/suggestions?
I'm currently using Slic3r and I don't see a raft option.
Jeffersanders describes his print profile here; the thread was about getting plastic to stick using the settings in sli3r. Also, "Brim" is what's used as a raft in slic3r.
Enclosing the printer or otherwise raising the ambient temperature also helps, it seems. Even just a cardboard casing (the box it came in lol)
Enclosing the printer or otherwise raising the ambient temperature also helps, it seems. Even just a cardboard casing (the box it came in lol)
I've got cardboard on 2 sides, I'm getting Plexi tomorrow, and glass for the bed. but I'll try.
I has 1 alright print earlier, but I really need to find a solid way to level it. I'm just unsure of the space between the nozzle and the platform, Paper, Card stock?
regular printer paper, 20 pound stock is what I use, makes for a good starting point from there you can lower the bed a little IF it is sticking too much.
regular printer paper, 20 pound stock is what I use, makes for a good starting point from there you can lower the bed a little IF it is sticking too much.
Will do, and while I'm asking questions, is there any reasoning behind the temperature fluctuation?
that looks just like the banding
ronsii wrote:regular printer paper, 20 pound stock is what I use, makes for a good starting point from there you can lower the bed a little IF it is sticking too much.
Will do, and while I'm asking questions, is there any reasoning between the temperature fluctuation?
PID-calibration already done?
Schieggster wrote:ronsii wrote:regular printer paper, 20 pound stock is what I use, makes for a good starting point from there you can lower the bed a little IF it is sticking too much.
Will do, and while I'm asking questions, is there any reasoning between the temperature fluctuation?
PID-calibration already done?
Now that I think about it, I haven't. I'll do that amongst other things today.
Hopefully
Buy Glass for the bed
Buy Plexi for at least the front and sides
Calibrate everything properly (I was actually able to print straight out of the box, then I mad a few adjustments, but no real "calibration")
digiprint wrote:Schieggster wrote:Will do, and while I'm asking questions, is there any reasoning between the temperature fluctuation?
PID-calibration already done?
Now that I think about it, I haven't. I'll do that amongst other things today.
Hopefully
Buy Glass for the bed
Buy Plexi for at least the front and sides
Calibrate everything properly (I was actually able to print straight out of the box, then I mad a few adjustments, but no real "calibration")
The PID calibration will flatten that line right out 
you will get more even layers and bonding.
Schieggster wrote:digiprint wrote:PID-calibration already done?
Now that I think about it, I haven't. I'll do that amongst other things today.
Hopefully
Buy Glass for the bed
Buy Plexi for at least the front and sides
Calibrate everything properly (I was actually able to print straight out of the box, then I mad a few adjustments, but no real "calibration")The PID calibration will flatten that line right out
Good, it was really funny trying to get the prints to start every time...
If I started it wile the temps were at the peak of the wave, I'd have to wait for it to cool, then reheat, but luckily my bed isn't doing this, That thing is definitely slow to heat... I might look into a new bed setup one day.
Just a quick picture, maybe there are some noticeable flaws (This is pre "major calibration" IE, I leveled the bed with cardstock instead of print paper, and I have yet to calibrate my flow rates)
Part of the brim is still on there. but some people wanted me to bring some thing in just so they could see what 3D printing really was.
Here's one of the first prints, the corners didn't fare so well, but not too terrible for straight out of the box, with no calibration or tuning whatsoever.
If you put glass over the bed, wouldn't you need to adjust the home Z position as well...?
No the endstop does this. The gcode issues a command to go past the endstop, then the limit switch gets triggered and the gcode uses this position as z-zero. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but that's how I understand it.
No the endstop does this. The gcode issues a command to go past the endstop, then the limit switch gets triggered and the gcode uses this position as z-zero. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but that's how I understand it.
As far as I know that's correct, because it always Zeroes itsself before every print.
So with a glass bed, I'll probably have to flip my Z screw
or print lawsy's offset one, or use an m3 motherboard standoff from an old computer.
I just turned my Z stop screw holder completely around and un screwed it, and Everything looks great!
I'll add pictures in a bit, but so far the Glass and Hairspray is 100% must do.
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Solidoodle Discussion → Print not sticking
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