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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → 3D Printer Discussion → glass for glass bed
I print ABS and Hips and tried glass in the past it would either chip or crack.
so i was going to try Borosilicate glass however none of the glass places in the area handle Borosilicate but they do carry pyrex.
is pyrex ok yo print on.
pyrex is low-thermal-expansion borosilicate glass, most of flask and beaker in the lab made by prex, they are indeed very strong. It may not shrink as much as normal glass which allow easy removal of the prints after cool down, but removal of parts still very easy if you use glue stick (I only have experience with glue stick and cube glue with glass bed).
Even with strong glass, use some kind of tape to buffer between glass and your print bed, especially if the print bed is slightly wrapped. I like removable double sided tape to fix the glass for that reason. Although I have never experienced glass crack on print bed, but I think the buffering tape is important.
any type of tape except Kapton will act like a
thermal barrier. If I put anything between bed and glass it will be thermal paste!
pyrex is low-thermal-expansion borosilicate glass, most of flask and beaker in the lab made by prex, they are indeed very strong. It may not shrink as much as normal glass which allow easy removal of the prints after cool down, but removal of parts still very easy if you use glue stick (I only have experience with glue stick and cube glue with glass bed).
Even with strong glass, use some kind of tape to buffer between glass and your print bed, especially if the print bed is slightly wrapped. I like removable double sided tape to fix the glass for that reason. Although I have never experienced glass crack on print bed, but I think the buffering tape is important.
I have glass held directly to the bed which is aluminum by nothing more than hairspray. Then I use hairspray on that glass for adhesion for parts. Once cool the part will literally slide off if the bed is tilted.
The glass however stays stuck to the bed very well. The hairspray will also fill gaps between the glass and bed if your bed is warped slightly.
Glass and hairspray should be the go to for most. It is cheap, simple, and rarely fails. Plus Glass can be fitted to nearly any bed. The hairspray usually Aquanet can be bought for 5 bucks per can and a can will last years.
any type of tape except Kapton will act like a
thermal barrier. If I put anything between bed and glass it will be thermal paste!
You may not know this, but in the printed circuit board manufacturing industry Kapton tape is used to protect surfaces and parts from process heat. So it actually is a thermal insulator to block heat.
I just called one of the local glass company about pricing on the type or pyrex they sell and a 3/16" X 9.75" X 6.5" piece ans she quoted me $109.00. so i will ho with mirror glass.
I just called one of the local glass company about pricing on the type or pyrex they sell and a 3/16" X 9.75" X 6.5" piece ans she quoted me $109.00. so i will ho with mirror glass.
Tempered glass is similar to Pyrex, but not Pyrex. Pyrex is expensive due to it's name. Tempered glass is more or less generic Pyrex and only a few bucks more than plate glass. I had a 1/4 inch thick piece cut for my XYZ 1.0 and it was only like 26 bucks and that included ground edges.
I have glass held directly to the bed which is aluminum by nothing more than hairspray. Then I use hairspray on that glass for adhesion for parts. Once cool the part will literally slide off if the bed is tilted.
The glass however stays stuck to the bed very well. The hairspray will also fill gaps between the glass and bed if your bed is warped slightly.
Glass and hairspray should be the go to for most. It is cheap, simple, and rarely fails. Plus Glass can be fitted to nearly any bed. The hairspray usually Aquanet can be bought for 5 bucks per can and a can will last years.
Carl
I tried to hold the glass to the bed with hairspray some time back and had trouble with the glass moving when trying to remove the print. I think I am going to try clips first.
if there is any warping of the bed. the clips transfer the warpage to the glass
I have glass held directly to the bed which is aluminum by nothing more than hairspray. Then I use hairspray on that glass for adhesion for parts. Once cool the part will literally slide off if the bed is tilted.
The glass however stays stuck to the bed very well. The hairspray will also fill gaps between the glass and bed if your bed is warped slightly.
Glass and hairspray should be the go to for most. It is cheap, simple, and rarely fails. Plus Glass can be fitted to nearly any bed. The hairspray usually Aquanet can be bought for 5 bucks per can and a can will last years.
Carl
I tried to hold the glass to the bed with hairspray some time back and had trouble with the glass moving when trying to remove the print. I think I am going to try clips first.
There is a trick to securing the glass with hairspray. You have to apply a generous coat to the back of the glass. It needs to be wet on it's entire surface.
Then lay it on the bed and run the bed trough three full heat and cool cycles before trying to use it. Heat it to at least 90 and let it cool to room temp three times.
There is a trick to securing the glass with hairspray. You have to apply a generous coat to the back of the glass. It needs to be wet on it's entire surface.
Then lay it on the bed and run the bed trough three full heat and cool cycles before trying to use it. Heat it to at least 90 and let it cool to room temp three times.
+1
I use this same technique, works great.
Mcmaster carr sells borosilcate glass an 8x8 piece is $25 up to 1/4 thick and about $35 for a 10 x 10 piece.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#borosilicate-glass/=1eddh26
$109 is imHO highway robbery
The only issue with buying Boro glass in stock size is that it cannot be cut like plate or soda glass very easily. It won't scribe and cleave on the scribe like regular glass does unless you can make the scribe very deep. So if you can go to a glass shop and ask for tempered glass to be cut to your dimensions. It was only like 30 bucks or so for mine and that including the cutting and polishing the edges.
Thanks Carl I will get tempered glass.
https://www.amazon.com/Borosilicate-Pol … &psc=1
2 for $34, not too expensive. Maybe slightly smaller than what you need but not too much.
I print ABS and Hips and tried glass in the past it would either chip or crack.
so i was going to try Borosilicate glass however none of the glass places in the area handle Borosilicate but they do carry pyrex.
is pyrex ok yo print on.
Pyrex is nolonger the pyrex of yester year, the company that bought the Pyrex brand altered the glass completely for something that is a compromise, so soemthing with Pyrex on it that is less than 20 years old, forget it, its dummy galss as I call it.
Borosilicate glass, if you are stuck is used alot in the furniture industry like on some coffee tables, like I got a nice piece out of an old flat bed scanner, it is around if you look for it, especially in machines with photocopier / scanner type beds as the glass needs to be thin, strong and not bend like soda line glass does.
If you have soda glass then Kapton tape as a barrier will help you.
Tempered glass works just as well and is very reasonable price wise. It is designed for extreme temp changes and stress. Most glass shops carry it and can custom cut and ground the edges for a small fee.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOeEhxFze5k
I ordered a piece of tempered glass friday from the largest glass company in the area and was told they do not keep it in stock and had to order it . it will be 3 weeks.
I ordered a piece of tempered glass friday from the largest glass company in the area and was told they do not keep it in stock and had to order it . it will be 3 weeks.
A glass supplier that has to order in some tempered glass..!?!?!
I have in all the years of having to go to glaziers, never known any glazier to not carry the glass needed for the job...
Question is how much is it costing? $10, $20, $30 as you could likely have gone to a junk / pawn brokers / thrift shop, tossed $5 at the clerk for that old scanner and just ripped the glas bed out of it.
when i ordered the glass I did not think about scanner or copier beds. bad thing is i have an old scanner on hand.
Carl
my bed heats to 110°C how long do you let it soak before you start cool down?
Once it reaches I temp I start it cooling. Once it reaches room temp I start it heating and I repeat three times.
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