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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → 3D Printer Discussion → I think I have a warped bed
instead of using the bed leveling that is built into my printer (Makerbot replicator 2X) i used the one built into Simplify 3D.
it is a lot better hands down. BUT I think i have a warped bed. the prints are .2mm thick 1 layer. and as you can see the middle print is non existant. Going to get a beveled straight edge and check bed flatness. I am supprised I did not have a nozzle clog because it printed the center first.
Thanks
Dale
Not a big deal, put removable double sided tape on four edge should solve the problem. spread out the tape if you need to put multiple lanes of tape so that the heat transfer is more average. I think your bed leveling spring are pressed too hard, you should adjust your z-axis end stop to make sure your bed spring in optimal stress range.
Not printing on glass that is Kapton
most print beds will warp over time. the constant heat/cool cycles are what cause it.
Heat causes expansion, cooling causes contraction & the two are never exactly the same amount.
the thinner the bed material is, the faster and more pronounced it becomes.
I had a similar issue with my SD4s - I fixed it by getting rid of the stock thin aluminum bed plates and installing nice thick ones - 3/16" thick to be precise.
That, coupled with mirror tile as a print surface, and the Print-It Industries Hale bed heater, I have been happily printing away for about 3 years solid now with no more warping issues - eventually it might become an issue again, but not for a long time.
Not printing on glass that is Kapton
Replace the kapton with glass or add glass on top of the kapton will definitely help. Glass is harder and stronger than kapton, less likely to be affected by wrapped bed. The disadvantage of glass bed is you might need to start use glue stick or hair spray for easy bed adhesion. Also glass is more fragile than kapton and need to be handled with care.
I have 1 more New bed that I will install which will be bed number 4 in 3000 hours run time.
and when it warps i will use glass with paper clams and hair spray for adhesion.
If the bed is glass, try flipping it over.
You also have the problem that cheap chnesium glass is not like glass that you should have, like the furniture glass which is tempered or laminated and does not warp, aka Borosilicate and a common household name of that variety is Pyrex.
A 3mm furniture glass is as tough as its counterpart at 6mm and yes I do know from the hundreds of furniture items I not only had to build and deliver for a company when I was much younger, I learnt that not all glass was equal.
You should replace the Chinesium Soda glass with a quality furniture glass that will be tougher and not likely to warp.
Possibly the best solution is replace the bed and add the new glass this will even out the heat and hopefully prevent warping.
I would not use paper clams on machines tend to have wrapping bed, they are two powerful, just like the bed spring that tighten to extreme and may contribute to next bed wrapping. I use removable double sided tape and always adjust z-axis endstop to reduce the need of extreme pressure on bed spring, I have 0 bed wrapping ever. (I have been careful about this because MonoPrice Maker Select V2 and plus are known to get bed wrap easily and people usually need to upgrade the y-carriage plate to avoid bed wrapping.)
I think it is good to add the glass over your new bed so that you will not need bed number 5 anymore.
I would not use paper clams on machines tend to have wrapping bed, they are two powerful, just like the bed spring that tighten to extreme and may contribute to next bed wrapping. I use removable double sided tape and always adjust z-axis endstop to reduce the need of extreme pressure on bed spring, I have 0 bed wrapping ever. (I have been careful about this because MonoPrice Maker Select V2 and plus are known to get bed wrap easily and people usually need to upgrade the y-carriage plate to avoid bed wrapping.)
I think it is good to add the glass over your new bed so that you will not need bed number 5 anymore.
If your glass is not touching your heated bed then you are going to get uneven heating. Air is a natural insulator and if there is air between the bed and glass then that are is insulating the glass form some of the beds heat. It is the same principle as double pane windows. The inside glass stays at a different temperature from the outside glass due to the barrier of air between the two panes.
I have used paper binders for years and have no issues with warping. I even still have the very thin 2mm stock heated bed on my machine. I just put a 2mm thick mirror tile over the bed and bind it on two opposite corners.
The clams I have pictured are the same thing with out the wires
Ok, OCD OVERDRIVE HERE....
What the Clams?
One is a picture frame clip (for those frameless frames... you'll work it out, trust...), the other is a butterfly clip or to many, known as a bull dog clip.
A clamp without the "p"
Ok, OCD OVERDRIVE HERE....
What the Clams?
One is a picture frame clip (for those frameless frames... you'll work it out, trust...), the other is a butterfly clip or to many, known as a bull dog clip.
Here in Texas the one I pictured is called a binder clip as I called it in my post. Google binder clip and see what images you get.
A clamp without the "p"
Clams are what you eat... If your car have a wheel clam, would you eat it? LOL
As for the bed issue, has the op taken the glass off, put it on a flat surface and seen how much this cheap-o glass is warped.
I found my franken-printer had a plat that was bowed, uneven cooling or a bad float as the glass deformed whilst travelling the float bed.
So I turned mine upside down and clamped it to the element directly and the prints are fine. I do plan on getting some nice borosilicate glass as it is more temperature stable and not liable to expansion like soda lime is.
As for the bed issue, has the op taken the glass off, put it on a flat surface and seen how much this cheap-o glass is warped.
I found my franken-printer had a plat that was bowed, uneven cooling or a bad float as the glass deformed whilst travelling the float bed.
So I turned mine upside down and clamped it to the element directly and the prints are fine. I do plan on getting some nice borosilicate glass as it is more temperature stable and not liable to expansion like soda lime is.
He is not using glass at the moment. He prints on Kapton tape that is attached directly to the aluminum coated PCB.
He is asking about and planning to use glass on his next bed that he is about to install. He uses a Makerbot which is I have a clone of so my method should work on his once he gets it installed.
My bed is warped as well which is why I put glass on it and moved away from the Kapton it originally came with and advised to use.
As for glass types. Yes Boro or Tempered glass is best but you can use picture frame glass or mirror tiles just the same. You just have to replace them more often as they will chip.
I even had Tempered glass give up a chip to a well attached print once. But that was my fault as I was in a hurry and did not let it cool fully.
If I had let it cool the part would have slid right off if the glass was tilted.
As for glass types. Yes Boro or Tempered glass is best but you can use picture frame glass or mirror tiles just the same. You just have to replace them more often as they will chip.
I am not sure what you mean by "more often" - I use mirror tile on my printers and in 3.5 years have only had to replace one piece, one time due to a big chip coming out in the middle of it...
But then, I don't take mine off the printer.. and I do not use those stupid clips, either - I can use the entire bed area.
The mirror tile is stuck to the bed using hairspray.
It does not move, and does not work loose unless I want it to, by using a putty knife under it to work it free (and this does require some effort to accomplish).
One reason I like removable double sided tape method is it buffers the contact surface and protect the glass from breaking. I think hairspray have similar benefit in protecting the glass except relative hard to remove.
I did concerned about the potential uneven heating issue as Carl mention when I install my first glass, but not at my 10th installation. My glass are 4 mm in thickness and it might diffuses heat better than 2 mm glass. Also my printer tends to pre-heat bed before it start to heat up the nozzle, when nozzle heating finished, the temperature on glass bed are relatively well diffused. I have not have any issue with wrapping or layer separation or bed adhesion.
I use spatulas printed in ABS to get the glass off bed if removable double sided tape is too sticky. So far have not experience any glass break yet. I pull some 3 in one oil on my hand and wipe it dry, then use the residual oil to press on tape to reduce the stickiness to the heated bed side so that it can be removed a lot easier. Even when the tape to the bed side is completely not sticky, the glass will not move during the print because the soft surface of the tape create big resistance force to prevent the glass from moving freely.
I did have bad experience with those clips before, hotend run through the clips, press the print bed unevenly because one side can not use clips on some machine, sometimes the clips fly out when I adjust the glass bed and shoot the wall luckily did not hit anyone.
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