Prints not sticking to bed

Do some research on ABS juice. You mix ABS with acetone and it supposedly works better than the glue.

I was having a lot of trouble with prints not sticking as well (only tried .1 with glue). It could be that the bed needs recalibrating. I spent 1-2 hours doing the calibration over and over until it was close and finally said "SUCCESS". It was dragging plastic all over the place on the keychain demo before and printed just fine afterwards.

Like they said, #1 for proper bed adhesion is leveling.  Really this is first and foremost the key. After that it is almost easy.

Wish I had a solution but I am suffering the same problem. Where can you get these print heads with this wiring pattern? Like my profile says, noobie or some such inexperienced practictioner of the art of 3d printing. Can it be purchased off the shelf? I will take two.

It took about two weeks for the sticking problem to go from minor annoyance to dead cold and will not heat for any reason. The bed will heat but not the extruder.

The deck is calibrated and I have used some of the Elmer's, the purple stuff, but now the head is stone cold.

I have at least 8 reply's to requests for all the particulars of my conditions and setup but no solutions from tech support. They can ask a shitload of questions but when it comes to solutions they are lacking.

As they say, any help would be greatly appreciated.

The problem is one of two things. Either the connector decided to die (this is what got me) or the actual cartridge heater is dead. Read this post, it goes into more detail of what I ran into. http://www.soliforum.com/topic/6980/hot … or-issues/ For whatever it's worth, the lousy connectors chosen by XYZ are a known issue.

Well, since your back to a working machine...

I'm sure we can get the base of your prints to stick. ABS slurry is by far the strongest surface that you can use if you are simply trying to get things to stick. It's actual problem is that it doesn't want to come off and people have broken the glass trying to force it to.

If your print item has enough of a flat base, the gluestick will work. It is no where near as good as the slurry, but normally you can simply pick a part up after it has printed and cooled down with no sticking at all. Things that can improve your chances are to print a brim. Cura has this as an actual option, but you can always add one yourself to the stl before you slice it and get results that way (just like adding supports from Meshmixer, since none of the slicers are very good at it). All a brim consists of is a 1 layer thick border that stretches out from your print as far as you want. 10mm is a large one for instance.

The last thing that can cause issues is heat. I like to slap the first layer down hot, slow, and at 3mm thick, then drop the heat back and print at 1mm. Sadly this isn't a trick that XYZware knows, but there are many ways around that. Most every other slicer does know about changing the first layer and I add manual heat setting changes to whichever layers I think it will be needed at. Any slicer that comments the layer number in the gcode output makes it easy to add the commands to change heat as needed.

I use an abs slurry,just mix some waste abs in a container with acetone, I pour a coin sized drop on the plate then use the spatula to spread it over the surface. it does stick it really well, dont be tempted to force the part off the plate shortly after it has finished - differential cooling will pop it off as the plate cools - but do be aware that too thick a coat of slurry and a large base size can put a clamshell chip in the glass (yes I have a cracked bed with a clamshell chip sitting as a spare now, I keep meaning to add a thin sheet of borosilicate glass to this bed as a spare) the good news is that replacement beds are available from XYZ via Amazon.
I presume you have the heated glass bed and are printing with ABS